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Have you considered compounds with s475/96/1.15 or s475/83/1.10 for lower HP but faster spool?
 
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Discussion Starter #23
Have you done a thorough cleaning of the fins of the radiator, inter-cooler, and the AC condenser?
They can get clogged up enough to cause issues.
Also, the AC condenser fins can be crushed/folded-over.
Always looking for the easy fixes, I have sprayed everything out from both directions. Usually do it at the beginning of each summer...
👊🏼
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Keep in mind when you tune a truck the timing is advanced so your target egts need to be lower then stock. If 1450 is ok on my 04.5 stock, id prob shoot for 1300 with tuning.
You are keeping more heat in-clyinder, better efficiency but can damage the pistons if you sustain hi egt .
Cheers!
Good information- This was part of the reason that my EGT alarm was set for 1250.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
@ryanmgalasso
I will update the initial post. I should have done a better job listing pertinent information.

Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #26
If you're hearing it, it's kicking on. They kick on at 217° coolant temp.
Going to reset my coolant alarm from 215 to 220. Think I have been running below the threshold for really cooling the engine?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Have you considered compounds with s475/96/1.15 or s475/83/1.10 for lower HP but faster spool?
Was really hoping to see if I could solve the problems with simple fixes, and on a budget. Also, I am not up to speed on filtering effectiveness once going to twins - lots of dust here in the west.
Not completely opposed, I just don’t know enough...
 

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Discussion Starter #28
7/30/2020 update. Feel free to straighten me out...

Program has been reset to “Stock” and alarms adjusted to 220F for ECT and 1400 for EGTs. Don’t anticipate towing again until September...
I am considering that my alarms were too conservative to allow the system to function properly. Was trying to protect the engine since wasn’t sure how much the program had affected the in-cylinder temps.
Still appreciate additional feedback.

Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #29
If you still have the OEM electric fan clutch on your 2005 3500, I would make sure that it is still fully functional. I have a 2003 3500 dually and pulled a 13K fifth wheel cross country last summer never having any cooling issues. Then I towed my trailer up Teton Pass out of Jackson WY and overheated a third of the way up the pass. Luckily I got it shut down quickly and I didn't blow a head gasket. Found out the next day that my fan clutch was toast. I replaced it and now my truck rarely gets over 205 and then the fan kicks in and pulls it down to the low 190's. Also, when you are towing in stop and go traffic you should hear your fan activate and see your coolant temp decrease as the fan engages. Before I replaced my fan clutch my temp would climb at traffic lights only decrease as I got air flowing through the radiator at speed. I think this part gets frequently overlooked when diagnosing cooling problems.
That is a tough tow. We have come down that...

The mountains are big and steep out here. 👍🏻
 

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That is a tough tow. We have come down that...

The mountains are big and steep out here. 👍🏻
Agreed. Teton is the worst for hauling. Especially without an exhaust brake.
 
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Going to reset my coolant alarm from 215 to 220. Think I have been running below the threshold for really cooling the engine?
220 would be good. It'll grab your attention to start monitoring it closer.
 
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Discussion Starter #32

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Discussion Starter #33
Agreed. Teton is the worst for hauling. Especially without an exhaust brake.
It still surprises me how much easier it is with the PRXB.
 

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Would you set the alarm elsewhere?
I don't even know if I have an alarm set for mine lol. 220 is good. It's not getting too warm yet, but when the alarm goes off, you'll know to keep a closer eye on it incase it keeps rising.
 
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