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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, looking at doing a 2nd gen swap on my 17 2500. I’m pretty set on the kit, 07-18 Cummins 6.7 Smeding Diesel S300 Replacement Non VGT Turbo with Manifold
But I am wondering what else to add mostly for engine protection. I was looking at either ARP 625’s or I found a TrackTech(?) set that also comes with gaskets as well. Also looking at o-ring service.
Would I need to add larger injectors, lift pump, injection pump, and valve springs or are they not necessary just for a 2nd gen swap?
 

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You don’t “need” anything to protect your engine from a second gen swap. Studs are good for piece of mind, stick with arp they have a great reputation. The gaskets that come with the other ones will be useless unless you’re planning on pulling the head because one at a time is the way to go. As far as fuel goes, that depends upon what your future goals are but pick the right sized turbo and you’ll be able to run it comfortably with stock fuel then still have a little room left to enjoy it when you add fuel mods later. I’ve been running a 467.7 for 30k miles with stock head bolts and stock fuel. Good tuning and driving like a normal human will keep your head gasket alive for a long time. It spools very good, not as quick as stock, but still very good with stock fuel and is ready to breathe a little heavier when I decide to get into injectors, etc


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Discussion Starter #3
You don’t “need” anything to protect your engine from a second gen swap. Studs are good for piece of mind, stick with arp they have a great reputation. The gaskets that come with the other ones will be useless unless you’re planning on pulling the head because one at a time is the way to go. As far as fuel goes, that depends upon what your future goals are but pick the right sized turbo and you’ll be able to run it comfortably with stock fuel then still have a little room left to enjoy it when you add fuel mods later. I’ve been running a 467.7 for 30k miles with stock head bolts and stock fuel. Good tuning and driving like a normal human will keep your head gasket alive for a long time. It spools very good, not as quick as stock, but still very good with stock fuel and is ready to breathe a little heavier when I decide to get into injectors, etc


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Thanks so much for the reply. The turbo is one of the smaller ones available only because I didn’t want one too crazy huge, but if you’re running a 467.7 on stock parts maybe I’ll think of going a little bigger. Glad to know that you’re having luck with stock parts, adds a little relief lol. Also, what tuning do you use? I have performance diesel from the ezlynk, just didn’t know if there was anything better especially for non-vgt swaps?
 

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I have Anarchy but I think they’re done tuning deleted trucks along with most everybody else. I think CTT is who most people are going with now. You’ll be fine with everything else remaining stock. Once you start upgrading things though you always have to be ready for things to break or need upgraded but you don’t have to expect it.


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Mike @ Dude's Diesel Performance
2013 Ram 2500 CCLB - A long list of extras
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791 Posts
You don’t “need” anything to protect your engine from a second gen swap. Studs are good for piece of mind, stick with arp they have a great reputation. The gaskets that come with the other ones will be useless unless you’re planning on pulling the head because one at a time is the way to go. As far as fuel goes, that depends upon what your future goals are but pick the right sized turbo and you’ll be able to run it comfortably with stock fuel then still have a little room left to enjoy it when you add fuel mods later. I’ve been running a 467.7 for 30k miles with stock head bolts and stock fuel. Good tuning and driving like a normal human will keep your head gasket alive for a long time. It spools very good, not as quick as stock, but still very good with stock fuel and is ready to breathe a little heavier when I decide to get into injectors, etc


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Whats your max boost PSI?
 

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Whats your max boost PSI?
I couldn’t tell you an actual number. I’ve never read boost with anything other than the factory sensor so 36 psi is the highest I can see


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A boost gauge would be a wise investment.
 
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