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Safe HP

1738 Views 12 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  Chevy-Eater
I apologize if this is longwinded, but I have been reading just about anything and everything I can get my hands on about these rigs. These are some seriously amazing engines, and I know why used ones sell for much more than retail. I am running into A LOT of conflicting information about my question.

My question is how much SAFE HP can I make without changing my turbo? So far I have ordered a 5” turbo back exhaust (I know I could have gotten 4”, but it looks cool!). Then I bought an S&B cold air intake, and finally a set of gauges (EGT,Boost, Fuel pressure). My next thought was a fuel plate, and I was thinking about getting one of the 40-140hp dealios and sliding it all the way up to 140hp for a total of 315HP? Now my concern is that my EGTs will be going through the roof? And is my turbo going to run to hot?

This will not be a daily driver and I do not need to worry about emissions, but I do need it to be reliable since I fart around in the mountains a lot with no one else around. The only thing I will be towing is a 6000lbs MAX travel trailer. I wouldn’t mind if I had to get a 16cm turbo housing and a new clutch later on, but I don’t want to dump money into a new turbo.
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I apologize if this is longwinded, but I have been reading just about anything and everything I can get my hands on about these rigs. These are some seriously amazing engines, and I know why used ones sell for much more than retail. I am running into A LOT of conflicting information about my question.

My question is how much SAFE HP can I make without changing my turbo? So far I have ordered a 5” turbo back exhaust (I know I could have gotten 4”, but it looks cool!). Then I bought an S&B cold air intake, and finally a set of gauges (EGT,Boost, Fuel pressure). My next thought was a fuel plate, and I was thinking about getting one of the 40-140hp dealios and sliding it all the way up to 140hp for a total of 315HP? Now my concern is that my EGTs will be going through the roof? And is my turbo going to run to hot?

This will not be a daily driver and I do not need to worry about emissions, but I do need it to be reliable since I fart around in the mountains a lot with no one else around. The only thing I will be towing is a 6000lbs MAX travel trailer. I wouldn’t mind if I had to get a 16cm turbo housing and a new clutch later on, but I don’t want to dump money into a new turbo.
I had no EGT issues in mine when I just had a #0 plate, but then again I dont tow. Your stock clutch probably wont take much more than a #10 plate though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Save your money and get a better turbo. Thats a T-4 flange and we use a T-3, also its a recreated version of the HX40 made by holset. Even if someone gave it to me I wouldnt run it.
I was just getting ready to delete my post as I had just read it was not an upgrade, and it spools slower than a donkey on pot!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I had no EGT issues in mine when I just had a #0 plate, but then again I dont tow. Your stock clutch probably wont take much more than a #10 plate though.
#0 plate? Where does that fit on this chart in HP ratings? With a #10 would I be around 300HP?

 

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That tech article helps a lot! That one image of the different plate profiles is nice. I am still confused though; does the plate govern the amount of fuel in relation to the RPMs or in relation to pressing the pedal? I can see that the govern arm slides on the plate and depending on the contour it dumps more or less fuel, but what makes the govern arm move? or am I totally out in left field? Did I mention I am a noob? :hehe:

If the TST #5 plate is rated at 270HP/675ft/lbs what would the TST #10 do? Its rated at 330HP for the 215 pump, but I imagine it would be much less since I have the 175 pump.
 

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if your gonna buy a plate get it off ebay. Only 35 dollars. no point paying 100 or more for a piece of metal
 

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That tech article helps a lot! That one image of the different plate profiles is nice. I am still confused though; does the plate govern the amount of fuel in relation to the RPMs or in relation to pressing the pedal? I can see that the govern arm slides on the plate and depending on the contour it dumps more or less fuel, but what makes the govern arm move? or am I totally out in left field? Did I mention I am a noob? :hehe:

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Thats complicated :lol4: as the rpms increse the arm moves up the plate but it dose not even touch the plate till there is enough boost to move the AFC foot far enough
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
That seriously helps a lot! Thank you! The fact that the fuel level is in relation to RPM and boost makes perfect sense.
 

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That tech article helps a lot! That one image of the different plate profiles is nice. I am still confused though; does the plate govern the amount of fuel in relation to the RPMs or in relation to pressing the pedal? I can see that the govern arm slides on the plate and depending on the contour it dumps more or less fuel, but what makes the govern arm move? or am I totally out in left field? Did I mention I am a noob? :hehe:

If the TST #5 plate is rated at 270HP/675ft/lbs what would the TST #10 do? Its rated at 330HP for the 215 pump, but I imagine it would be much less since I have the 175 pump.
The fuel plate will only effect fueling under heavy/ full throttle. Depending on what RPM your engine is at will decide as to which point the govenor arm will contact the plate. So if you nail it off the line the arm will hit the lower edge of the plate, if you nail it at around 2000rpm it will hit higher on the plate. The govenor arm is attached to your pedal.

I really couldnt tell you what kind of power it would make in your pump. When I first got my truck the guy had a #8 plate in the stock position, it ran ALOT better than stockers I have driven but was by no means fast.
 
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