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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know it was not bright to pressure wash the engine, but what's done is done. 20 years and this is the first time it has caused me any grief. I assume when I was cleaning by the power steering pump is when I broke something.

I made a video on what I did. I shared that vid on a few FB groups and got banned for it. I am really stuck here. I have bought a lot of parts. I just replaced the PCM and still no luck. That was $1500. I am going backwards. Now the truck wont fire at all. The vid is 4 minutes long. Times for the trouble codes is at 1:50.
When it was running it would kick up like it was on all 6 for a split second. I tested all the wires for continuity. I am usually pretty good at fixing my screw ups but its been over a year and several grand trying to get this truck fixed.

I have replaced the fuel pump with an air dog 165. I replaced the injectors with industrials 30%. I pulled them from my race truck when I upgraded to 100% so I know they were working. I replaced the injector harness. I inspected all the wires for breakage and removed all grime.

Its a 2005 2500 4wd 6 speed nv 5600.

Please watch the vid before commenting so you not already suggesting something I have done. Of if you are point out what I should do differently.

Thanks


 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
list your codes cant see in video
proper resistance test of wiring ie no power to wires, meter zeroed
ECM from where?
ECM properly programmed to your Truck?
Obviously you did not watch the vid. All that is in the vid. The truck was running. I pressure cleaned it and damaged the PCM I believe. The PCM was factory.

I have several of these trucks, and this is the only one I am struggling with. The others are cmb849's and this is a cmb848. For some reason this PCM seems difficult to find. I sent the PCM out for repair, but I am pretty certain it was not repaired. They claimed there was nothing wrong with the PCM but water poured out when I removed the plug before I sent it out to an eBay repair guy.

I have about 10k into this pos. This is not my first build, but this is the first truck to give me such a struggle. This stupid truck has caused me so much hate and grief from the community. I have been banned from multiple sites cuz of this video. Sites where my rep was golden. Its like this issue offends people. I guess its gets peoples jollies off to see others struggle with what is simple to them. I just need to hear it fire before I pull the engine out and put my touches on it.

I am sure like everything else I will figure it out on my own. Like every other time when I figuer it out and share what I found people, will say they knew all along. I will think one of 2 things when they do. Either they are full of it, or spiteful.
 

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ECM gets my vote. I think I'd order a new one and dismantle the one in the truck now just to see what's wrong w ith it. (Like what shorted out when you pressure washed it.)
 

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if water poured out of the connectors when disconnected that would be a sure sign that it wont run right if at all (your problem). If the repair facility said there is NPF then get it back in there and fire it up. If the problem persists then clear the codes, generate new codes and post them here. I watched the vid and could not track what codes you had, since most are not going to record your codes for you it is up to you to document what the codes are and present it so it can be digested.

If you have not installed the ECM back in the truck but have it in hand, turn the oven on in the house at the lowest setting and put it in there with the door cracked open. Goal is temps approx 200 * or so to evaporate any moisture left in the unit. I believe it is potted which should keep the water out of the PCB area but that can only help so much at the connector.

As for getting help here... your last paragraph is not going to sit well with some here, if you want help... patients is key. Not everyone here will read every post everyday. We dont have the bandwidth.
 

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What are your coolant temps when it’s running on 3? I’m not sure if the common rails were ever programmed to run 3 cyl, like the old BP trucks were, but the coolant temps had to be single digits.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
P2149 group b bank I corrected the 0628 that also shows in the vid when I installed the airdog. The remaining codes are the same BS codes I have in running trucks. I have cleared the codes over and over. Code was not present when when key was on but not running.

I put the PCM back in the truck hoping maybe when I pulled the rubber plug and let the water out I had inadvertently fixed the issue before I sent it out. Same group b code when attempting to start it no matter what set of injectors. I have replaced the injector harness, injectors, cp3 pump, installed airdog 165. Went over every connection. I have even pulled the tipm apart looking for any loose connection spraying the anti corrosive contact spray before reconnecting everything.

I have swapped out injectors from other known running trucks. I never ran the truck long while on 3 cylinders. ATM the truck has a brand new set of industrials 30% overs. I thought maybe I had faulty set so I put them in the race truck and they worked, so I put them back. The amount of parts swapping I have done on this pile of junk is insane. I am sure in the end it will be something very simple and I am gonna feel like a dummy. I am but bitter at this point cuz I lost my status on a trans forum which I was very useful in. Not that I got paid, but it was nice to see people get their issues sorted. I caused the problem when I pressure washed the engine bay.

My next step is to get a stand alone PCM harness and use the race trucks PCM to fire it up. Not really gonna solve any issues, but the race truck is down to right now cuz I broke the trans in half.
 

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I get it, your pissed, frustrated and ready to throw a wrench at it. Your last stomping grounds is history, the page has turned and cumminsforum.com is in the new page.

You may have already done this but... We are going to do it anyway....

Pull the battery connections and the 2 ecm connectors.
At the ecm connectors find the common pin to all 3 injecrors on both banks.
Using a dmm, Zero the meter leads out for resistance
Measure the resistance from that common to each of the 3 injector drive pins at the connector and write it down.
Repeat for the other bank.

Bank 1 should be close to bank 2.

Start there and report back numbers.
 

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Another additional thought, check the ground cables to the block, measure the resistance of each cable while flexing the cable lug area. Resistance should not change.

The thinking is the ecu is not getting full current for the drive side of the failing bank. I would expect there to be an A2D monitor on the drive side. Meaning, for example if the theshold for a good value is 80v and your at 79.8v it will set a code. If that is the case it is entirely possible the other bank is just above the threshold then no code for that bank...
 
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With the ECM plugged in, batteries connected measure and report the +5V supply line for the engine sensors...

Disconnect the battery, pull the ECM connectors, reconnect the battery and verify 12V @ pins C2-20, C2-30 & C2-40 on the ECM connector
Same for grounds @ pins C2-21, C2-49 & C2-50. Measure the 12v across each 12V pin to a ground on the connector.
 

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Schematic...



I would bet you have 1 of 2 things going on... either the supply voltage is drooping and the injectors are not driven at the drive level they need to be (hence the voltage tests above) or you have busted the wire from connector C1-56 to splice s170. If the failure is a hard failure, which it appears to be, the break must be enough to drop the voltage for detection. A frayed wire will also do it.
 

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Obviously you did not watch the vid. All that is in the vid. The truck was running. I pressure cleaned it and damaged the PCM I believe. The PCM was factory.

I have several of these trucks, and this is the only one I am struggling with. The others are cmb849's and this is a cmb848. For some reason this PCM seems difficult to find. I sent the PCM out for repair, but I am pretty certain it was not repaired. They claimed there was nothing wrong with the PCM but water poured out when I removed the plug before I sent it out to an eBay repair guy.

I have about 10k into this pos. This is not my first build, but this is the first truck to give me such a struggle. This stupid truck has caused me so much hate and grief from the community. I have been banned from multiple sites cuz of this video. Sites where my rep was golden. Its like this issue offends people. I guess its gets peoples jollies off to see others struggle with what is simple to them. I just need to hear it fire before I pull the engine out and put my touches on it.

I am sure like everything else I will figure it out on my own. Like every other time when I figuer it out and share what I found people, will say they knew all along. I will think one of 2 things when they do. Either they are full of it, or spiteful.


IMO, If you some how got water in ECM when it was connected to power and your sure wiring is good,
then I would send ECM out to our vendor ACS to be checked and programmed. not some Ebay guy.
can contact here Auto Computer Specialist

You posted in the non powertrain section to try to get help to fix your truck, your previous social media issues have nothing to do with trying to do this, if you want to discuss those real or imagined issues can post in the https://www.cumminsforum.com/forums/off-topic.55/
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Schematic...



I would bet you have 1 of 2 things going on... either the supply voltage is drooping and the injectors are not driven at the drive level they need to be (hence the voltage tests above) or you have busted the wire from connector C1-56 to splice s170. If the failure is a hard failure, which it appears to be, the break must be enough to drop the voltage for detection. A frayed wire will also do it.
I have been over the wires with a fine tooth comb. I replace the wires in the valve cover even though I dont think they was anything wrong with them.

You seem like you know more than most so maybe you know the answer to this based on the date.
Someone mentioned I might have a half year on my truck. It was sold to me as an 05 but the manufacture date is 07/04.
If the injectors I have are wrong would it prevent it from firing it up at all. The ones I have are industrials for the 04.5 to 07.5 piston bowl. I tested these on the other truck but that's truck's manufacture date is 11/06.
 

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I have been over the wires with a fine tooth comb. I replace the wires in the valve cover even though I dont think they was anything wrong with them.

You seem like you know more than most so maybe you know the answer to this based on the date.
Someone mentioned I might have a half year on my truck. It was sold to me as an 05 but the manufacture date is 07/04.
If the injectors I have are wrong would it prevent it from firing it up at all. The ones I have are industrials for the 04.5 to 07.5 piston bowl. I tested these on the other truck but that's truck's manufacture date is 11/06.
For one, don’t judge this community based on your previous experiences. And don’t treat people who are trying to help you here badly, you ain’t getting anywhere, and people will tell you to go ahead and fix it yourself. It takes time to walkthrough a repair like this.

My take, your issue has nothing to do with incompatible injectors. Your truck is MY05 built in 04. Even late 04s have same piston and injector as 05, so even if it was in between, it would be no factor.

Anyways. Start up truck and pull the front injector plug and see if no change. If it drops more cylinders, Replug and pull back injector plug. Leave middle one connected.

So which one yields no change?

Injector Supply Circuit 1 (K227) supplies power to the front 3 cylinders and Injector Supply Circuit 2 (K229) supplies power to rear 3 cylinders.

Once you know which one is giving the issue, you can easily build a replacement lead from ECM connector to injector plugs. My bet is the factory wire splice, where it branches from 1 to 3 wires, kicked the bucket, and that is why you have that code.

If the new wire lead doesn’t fix it, then you know it’s the ECM.
 

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I dont know the answer but Cerb is well respected and I would trust what he says in this post...

Build dates to determine if truck is a 04 or 04.5 model | Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum (cumminsforum.com)

New wires or not, please collect the data I mentioned. It is basic troubleshooting and without the info we wont find out what we dont know.

Another thing you could do is to measure the hot side of the injector (common wire) with key on for both banks, they should be identical in voltage, +/- millivolts.


You said you checked the wiring with a fine tooth comb, so does that mean you are 100% sure the battery connections are good? Supply connections to the ECU are good?
 

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I mention the vids history and its what ever... I will just keep firing the parts cannon or junk it. I am over it.
dont quit on it... it is a solveable problem.
 

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This issue is definitely PITA.
seems like as the trucks get older occurring more frequently.
Next good day I am gonna try to see if Auto Enginuity scanner will show those injector voltage/current accurately .
 

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This issue is definitely PITA.
seems like as the trucks get older occurring more frequently.
Next good day I am gonna try to see if Auto Enginuity scanner will show those injector voltage/current accurately .
Yeah it would be good to nail down some of the causes. In another thread I am trying to get a log file of an RPM hang event to understand what is actually going on. Thats another one that happens often enough...
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yeah it would be good to nail down some of the causes. In another thread I am trying to get a log file of an RPM hang event to understand what is actually going on. Thats another one that happens often enough...
RPM hang is almost always due to the FCA or how its commanded in the tune file. DDP did a YT on this about a year ago.
 
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