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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Short story is that I thought I had shot myself in the foot when my truck would not run/start after I decided to install my new glowshift fuel rail pressure gauge, move my existing glowshift fuel pressure, aux tank fuel level gauges to my new A-pillar quad gauge pod, and fix my intermittent instrument cluster blue LEDs all on the same day...

The happy ending is my truck is up and running today without a tow trip to the shop...

gory details:
2009, 6.7l, EFI tune, 238k miles

Last week, I started early on one of the cooler Phoenix (only 105 F) days; disconnected negative on batteries (most times don't do that) and proceeded to tear everything apart. Had to lengthen (cut/solder) the aux tank fuel level cable in order to reach the A-pillar pod. Rerouted the fuel pressure wires and installed the rail pressure wires through the firewall to the rail.

I bought the optional rail sensor pigtail harness rather than splice into existing wires. Of course installing that harness was a pain because it is hard to reach and unplug. So, to get more hand room, I unplugged the back injector harness and the large main wiring harness plug (remember batt grounds disconnected so safe right?)... I finally got pigtail harness installed and reconnected everything up.

Mid-day, I took a break and took the instrument cluster inside to work on the LEDs that were intermittently working. Last year I had replaced the stock bulbs with blue LEDs but the LED sockets were cheap and didn't fit well, so I decided to solder them in place. I disassembled the instrument cluster completely, removed the LEDs from cheap sockets, and soldered them in place after confirming polarity of LED and ground side of cluster PCB.

Re-assembled/installed the instrument cluster, finished installing/connecting the gauges, and plugged my mini maxx back in after double checking all wiring and plug connections.

I reconnected the batteries and, with the rays of glory shinning all over me, I started the truck. It fired right up but was running rough as all get out so I shut it off and rechecked all engine bay wiring that I disconnected - all good.

Attempted to start again and it was acting like it was fuel starved but I had good fuel pressure (15 psi), while rail pressure was fluctuating between 4-8K psi when running. It would not idle without dying quickly and I could not keep it running with gas (diesel) pedal. By now the engine was surging from less than 500 rpm to over 1500 rpm before stalling out.

Internet search quickly gets me pointed to bad FCA (fuel control actuator) as it has all the classic symptoms. Various forum posts also call out key immobilizer issue requiring a trip to the dealer to reprogram. Dejected, I called it a night and cracked open a few beers.

Day two, cannot get truck to start at all. Did some more troubleshooting (via internet forums and searches) and finally just ordered a replacement FCA.

Day three rained like a mother all day…

Day four FCA finally shows up (only a $163) and I installed it and fired the truck up; had 3 seconds of glory before falling back to earth.

At this point I am about to call a tow truck and have it sent to the shop for someone who really knows what they are doing and has all of the diagnostic equipment to troubleshoot/repair.

But I am a cheap/thrifty ******* so I take my last stab at it and pull both batteries for a trip to AutoZone.

AutoZone battery tester fails both batteries and two free replacements later I am headed home. Luckily, I had 2 days left on my free warranty replacement.

Today, I installed both batteries and low and behold, truck fired right up and idles/runs like a champ; steady idle, steady rail pressure, and... no DTC's.

I did pull DTC’s during course of issue (pic attached) and it is sort of funny that it progressively went from 3 to 4 to 5 DTC’s over course of issue.

Day one DTC's helped push me towards FCA as all three are fuel system related.

Day two DTC's (P0513/P2509) should have gotten me to battery issue (and saved me $163) sooner but I think the repeat of injection pump and pressure sensor DTC's were just to damn distracting.

Day four DTC's were not pulled until after I had installed the new batteries so, the lost comms and repeat of ECMPCM power shoulda/woulda confirmed bad batteries (in my view).

So, at the end of the day, I guess it was just fate that my almost 3 y/o batteries decided to fail at the same time I was doing all of my work.

As a side note, I had put a charger on during day two because repeated start attempts were wearing down the batteries and the charger was measuring 13.3 vdc (but not 14vdc). Also, when I replaced them three years ago the truck wouldn’t even crank when the batts failed.

Day one and early day two had plenty of cranking power...

I guess I’ll file this away for three years from now and go straight to replacement batteries when I am getting start/run issues..


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