Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum banner
1 - 16 of 16 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just took my 96 2500 Cummins Diesel in for new brakes. They found the entire cup that holds the bottom of the front passenger side suspension spring (around the shock absorber) is missing. It seems to have rusted off.

I asked about getting a new cup and welding it into place, but the shop thinks I have to buy an entire front suspension, including the axle and diff.

Any experience/advice?

Thanks!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
766 Posts
Sorry to be a "downer" about something that seems relatively small and simple, but I think cutting a spring cup off another housing and welding it on your existing housing would be difficult and expensive. The shop would have to get it properly aligned (in the same plane as the other spring cup) - that may not be too difficult, but welding on the housing is likely to warp the housing. I've seen what usually has to be done to prevent housing warpage. Chassis-fab shops have fixtures to prevent warpage when narrowing housings, but the axle must be disassembled and the differential removed because part of the fixture is held by the differential carrier bearings. I don't know if chassis shops would have a fixture for that housing - the main variables are the outer bearing-race diameters for the carrier and axle bearings. (EDIT: Mittler Bros and Alston Chassisworks say their narrowing fixtures work with the Dana 60) Also, good luck finding someone who'll let you cut the pocket off a complete axle and render an otherwise complete and functional assembly unsellable. Since these axles don't have a drop-out center-section like Ford 9" axles, you may as well buy the complete axle assembly instead of having your differential assembly and gears removed and set up in another housing.

Depending on how bad it's rusted, perhaps a fab-shop could build up something to replace the rusted-out portion, but it would depend greatly on how much is left of the original mount and the complexity. You might see if you can buy a fabricated spring cup (its a Dana 60?), and see if there's a fab-shop in your area that can R&R it, but I think the complete axle is the least hassle.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
5,142 Posts
Guys cut them and weld them up all the time here in the north east. Might be able to to find a shop to make new ones.

As forementioned it might just be easier to swap the axle.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the quick replies, guys!

I did find a good country boy machinist/mechanic/welder who is going to visit me in a few weeks and take the truck home to determine whether he can do a good rebuild job for me. In the meantime, I certainly welcome any more advice and I will post the results when I get done.

My truck spent the first 170,000 miles of its life moving 8-man shells around the country for the University of Virginia crew team. Being almost all highway miles, I am confident that my front diff is in great shape, so I'd like to stick with what I have, if possible (I know I can swap 'the pumpkin' into a used axle).

The truck is on its third tranny at 207,000 miles ... but, that seems to be a rule in the Dodge automatic world. :)
 

· Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Mine were rusted out made up new ones using 1” plate for spring to sit on, made up rest from 1/4” wasn’t a fun job but still probably easier than swapping axles and I’m sure it was cheaper.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
135 Posts
Is this something you might be able to fabricate, ship, and sell to me? Lemme know ... I'll contact my welder and put a team together!
If you were closer I would consider taking it on. As for just fabricating a spring pad...it's a creative concept, but sorry, I wouldn't even consider sharing liability with another welder, no matter how good he is. On something like this, I would do the entire job or nothing...all of the liability on me or nothing.
I think you should look for a Street rod or 4x4 off road fab shop in your area. These places weld on suspension parts and axles all the time.
I found a universal spring perch (AFCO 20156 Lower spring perch) on a certain, very large auction web site located in San Jose ,CA.
They also list Dodge Ram stock replacement coil spring buckets available for about $73 each.
Take lots of pic's of the repair process so we can watch. Save that Ram !
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,219 Posts
I’ve seen fabbed ones for sale on eBay, and welding them won’t even close to warp the housing they sit on brackets that are welded to the housing.

I picked up a donor axle I just finished putting together for my 97 it has a full bottom truss and I have a good buddy that’s a machinist so he made me some billet coil buckets. I leveled the axle and took the angles of both buckets with my digital level before cutting them off, you’d be shocked at how far off from each other the factory ones are so it doesn’t seem that’s a big deal. I just split the differences and made them the same. I carefully cut the old ones off, put the new ones on and tacked them at the desired angles. It was a pretty simple job. I don’t know how to post pictures anymore otherwise I would
 

· Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
THANKS TO EVERYONE FOR GOOD RESPONSES!

I think CTDbrad has hit the nail on the head. I followed his advice all the way to San Jose and found replacement parts: "94-02 Dodge Ram Coil Spring Bucket, Coil Spring Perch, Coil Retainer". Several welders seem to be making them of 3/16" steel. Here's one at : https://www.ebay.com/itm/272714505800?rmvSB=true (his Ebay name is stainlesstig1).

There's a good report with clear photos from someone who installed them at: https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-ram-tech/388043-rotted-spring-buckets-repaired.htm . He seems happy with the results. I copied and pasted the key parts and photos into the attached PDF for anyone who is interested.

I'm putting a literature pack together for my welder and will get his thoughts. (I'd never tell an artist how to do his job. :)

Updates to follow.
 

Attachments

· Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Latest update - I ordered 2 lower cups from Aaron Powell at AA Welding in Chester, Mass. (EBay: stainlesstig1). Should get them next week. Then I take them to my local welder to confirm he wants to do the job (he's concerned he doesn't have a heavy-duty enough spring compressor ... I said I'd buy one).

While I'm at it, I ordered a couple of Bilstein 4600 shocks and moog-k160015 front upper coil spring seats.

Is there anything else you guys would recommend replacing while doing this surgery?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
I'm guessing this is a 4WD from what has been posted so far. You don't need a spring compressor to remove the front springs, you just take the end links off the sway bar, then remove a bolt from the lower arms and the springs come out when you lower the axle.

I'd take a look at the bolts holding the arms on, and the arms themselves. If the spring pad has rotted off the axle, they may or may not be soon to follow. New arms can be had from ebay in stock length, but tubular, and grease able. New bolts can be had from Dodge, or possibly parts houses. New end links can be had as well.

It's too late now if you already ordered shocks, but you can delete the shock towers as well.
 
  • Like
Reactions: keithrosenfeld

· Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts

· Premium Member
Joined
·
5,142 Posts
Just unbolt the sway bar and Trac bar, no need to touch the control arms.

Keep an eye on the brake lines and abs wires when dropping the axle down.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
GOOD NEWS! My truck is like new.

I bought two lower coil spring retaining units from Aaron Powell at AA Welding in Chester, Mass. (EBay: stainlesstig1) for $145. Added new Bilstein shocks and some rubber upper bumpers ... then the great craftsmanship of Arnold Crawford, my expert welder, to replace BOTH sides (you know the drivers side would go next).

The truck rides better than I can ever remember and I flew through my state inspection. For about $1,000 I should be good for another 215,000 miles ... at least for the front suspension.

THANKS TO ALL YOU GREAT GUYS for the information and support. If anyone ever needs info on this, let me know and I can give you details.

- Keith Rosenfeld
Charlottesville, VA
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top