Brother bought that truck I was talking about and I got it back into the shop to look at some of the rust and under good light and some poking around its a lot worse then I thought. Pretty much the entire rocker is GONE on drivers side, pass side is starting to form some big holes but not as bad. We have a rocker given to us with the truck for the drivers side but gotta buy it for pass side. Im not the best welder, and this truck isn't gonna have to win any beauty contest just a hauler and cheap truck to drive got it for a steal...whats the best way to just cut these old panels out and pop on these new ones...im not joking I'm talking some backyard redneck stuff. The truck is just getting flat blacked out with a cheap gun just to make it less of an eye sore, somewhere down the line we may swap the cab and actually get it painted but for now he is on a cheap budget and I am gonna help him...Im a good tech but as far as body work goes Im a clueless man. So before i get out the self tapping screws anyone got some quick insight? i will post some pics of the rust tomorrow n see what yall think is the best to do here. Thanks
Rocker Panels
-
March's Cummins of the Month challenge is now open for entries!
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Joined
·
14,371 Posts
I do not really know any backwoods ways that work well long term. I do know the right way to do this repair.
If you want real cheap back woods work buy a can of spray foam and fill the rocker in. Then after removing the duct tape you will have something that is the right shape. Later on it is a big hassle to remove. This is not good bodywork in any way, shape, or form.
Typically once part of a rocker panel starts to rust a complete replacement is the only long lasting solution.
Every body panel is held on with a lot of spot welds. You can recognize them because they are small dots that are lower than the rest of the panel. You can use a spotweld cutter (probably $20-$30)to cut them out. Often it does not damage the back panel but sometimes it does. You can use a regular drill bit (under $2) the right size and drill through both panels. You can also use tin snips to remove most of the bad metal and then use a grinder to grind the metal over the spotwelds so thin that using a flat blade screwdriver you can pop the metal off.
Be careful with the grinder, if you look at a pretty girl walking by while grinding the sheetmetal you could grind away the back panel also. Pay attention and stop grinding when you see the back panel.
When it comes time to replace the rocker remove all rust on the back panel. Cover it up with paint at a minimum. Using a 95% zinc, 5% epoxy weld through primer (which I could never weld through) is cheap insurance for rust prevention. Painting the inside of the new panel is also a good idea. If you leave any of the old rocker panel in place it is just inviting more rust to appear later on. Make a factory sized hole for a factory sized part. Just be sure the replacement panel is big enough for the job and is not made 1" to short.
If you want to weld the panel on imitate the factory method. Drill several holes in similar locations to what the factory had for spot welds. You can do this on either the new rocker or the backing plate. Once the holes are there you can install the panel.
(unplug the batteries and computer at this time)
Before you begin to put the panel on get several vise grips. Clamp the panel on, shut the door and make sure it is lined up correctly. Now you can clamp down the top of the rocker panel. Now you will find out the reason for the holes you drilled. They should be between 1/8" and 1/4". Take the welder and fill the holes with weld. You may find making circles when filling helps. Try this OFF the truck first on scrap metal. Once you have the technique down put the panel on.
As far as the inside of the truck goes you may end up making a patch panel. This will be mostly getting some thin tin and beating it to fit the shape you need. This is not a critical job. Use a hammer, use some pliers, use whatever you can to get it close. Once it is close push the panel onto the original metal. With it pushed into place (pushing with something if needed) put a bit of a weld bead down. Beat and push the new metal as needed until the hole is covered and welded closed. Continue until the patch is completely installed. The floor is basically flat (ignore the strengthening ribs). You do not need to worry about warpage as the carpet will cover everything anyway. Do use some common sense and do not weld more than about 2" at a time without allowing some cooling to happen. You can probably weld up 18" at once without serious concern about warpage, but pay attention and remember, a little time now can save a lot of trouble later on.
If you want real cheap back woods work buy a can of spray foam and fill the rocker in. Then after removing the duct tape you will have something that is the right shape. Later on it is a big hassle to remove. This is not good bodywork in any way, shape, or form.
Typically once part of a rocker panel starts to rust a complete replacement is the only long lasting solution.
Every body panel is held on with a lot of spot welds. You can recognize them because they are small dots that are lower than the rest of the panel. You can use a spotweld cutter (probably $20-$30)to cut them out. Often it does not damage the back panel but sometimes it does. You can use a regular drill bit (under $2) the right size and drill through both panels. You can also use tin snips to remove most of the bad metal and then use a grinder to grind the metal over the spotwelds so thin that using a flat blade screwdriver you can pop the metal off.
Be careful with the grinder, if you look at a pretty girl walking by while grinding the sheetmetal you could grind away the back panel also. Pay attention and stop grinding when you see the back panel.
When it comes time to replace the rocker remove all rust on the back panel. Cover it up with paint at a minimum. Using a 95% zinc, 5% epoxy weld through primer (which I could never weld through) is cheap insurance for rust prevention. Painting the inside of the new panel is also a good idea. If you leave any of the old rocker panel in place it is just inviting more rust to appear later on. Make a factory sized hole for a factory sized part. Just be sure the replacement panel is big enough for the job and is not made 1" to short.
If you want to weld the panel on imitate the factory method. Drill several holes in similar locations to what the factory had for spot welds. You can do this on either the new rocker or the backing plate. Once the holes are there you can install the panel.
(unplug the batteries and computer at this time)
Before you begin to put the panel on get several vise grips. Clamp the panel on, shut the door and make sure it is lined up correctly. Now you can clamp down the top of the rocker panel. Now you will find out the reason for the holes you drilled. They should be between 1/8" and 1/4". Take the welder and fill the holes with weld. You may find making circles when filling helps. Try this OFF the truck first on scrap metal. Once you have the technique down put the panel on.
As far as the inside of the truck goes you may end up making a patch panel. This will be mostly getting some thin tin and beating it to fit the shape you need. This is not a critical job. Use a hammer, use some pliers, use whatever you can to get it close. Once it is close push the panel onto the original metal. With it pushed into place (pushing with something if needed) put a bit of a weld bead down. Beat and push the new metal as needed until the hole is covered and welded closed. Continue until the patch is completely installed. The floor is basically flat (ignore the strengthening ribs). You do not need to worry about warpage as the carpet will cover everything anyway. Do use some common sense and do not weld more than about 2" at a time without allowing some cooling to happen. You can probably weld up 18" at once without serious concern about warpage, but pay attention and remember, a little time now can save a lot of trouble later on.
Joined
·
23 Posts
if you dont wanna weld, and have a napa near you or bodyshop suppile place they should sell panel bond. its a two part glue, get the patch and cut out the bad metal,overside the pecie a little grind edges clean, glue in patch and use sheet metal screws to hold in pannel till it drys. then back screws out fill holes in with glue. sand do your plastic work and PrimE and paint. RUSTOLEM satin black cut 3:1 with minral spirits or acatone works great. good luck
Joined
·
4,429 Posts
saying something like this and not posting pics is b.s. I NEEEEED PICS
Ok when I get home. I'll take a few. This is no bs. Almost looks factory. Lol
Joined
·
1,402 Posts
Joined
·
14,371 Posts
I can not imagine getting an inspection sticker with the truck looking like that.
Just a little tin pop riveted on would look much nicer. It would also pass inspection.
Why did you rip out the complete rest of the rocker panel and not install something that looks right? Would the 2x4 not fit?
Just a little tin pop riveted on would look much nicer. It would also pass inspection.
Why did you rip out the complete rest of the rocker panel and not install something that looks right? Would the 2x4 not fit?
Joined
·
1,770 Posts
What a disgrace. Glad my mechanic/inspection station has some dignity.![]()
![]()
We don't have inspections. And why would I put any money in a POS truck. Does not make sense to me when this works perfect.
Joined
·
4,429 Posts
My god man, if you are going to do something do it right. Put some thomspsons water seal on that 2x4.![]()
![]()
Joined
·
1,047 Posts
I just did the rockers and cab corners on the new-to-me 94. Not a real PITA but time consuming, because I did it right, painting and repainting everything and the weld thru primer is expensive and your mig hates it.
I used an air chisel to take off the old ones. Use a panel cutter chisel to rip the panel in half on the flat part. Then take a spot weld cutter chisel and work your way along the bottom until you get it separated. Then do the same for the top. You can start from inside the truck on the top. The floor and the inner rocker is one piece so the outer rocker is the rubber seal retainer. Just go between it and the floor. To reinstall either mig weld thru some holes or use self tapping screws. I used the screws to hold it in place while I welded it back in then welded up the screw holes.
I used an air chisel to take off the old ones. Use a panel cutter chisel to rip the panel in half on the flat part. Then take a spot weld cutter chisel and work your way along the bottom until you get it separated. Then do the same for the top. You can start from inside the truck on the top. The floor and the inner rocker is one piece so the outer rocker is the rubber seal retainer. Just go between it and the floor. To reinstall either mig weld thru some holes or use self tapping screws. I used the screws to hold it in place while I welded it back in then welded up the screw holes.
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
