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Discussion Starter #1
Not sure if this correct place for this or not but hoping to get some of yourideas.
I’ve had my truck now for 12 years and up till now I’ve kept it in pretty decent shape. Or so I thought. But a couple of weeks ago I was driving home down a two lane winding highway at night and there was a freshly fallen tree that landed just over the white line and into my lane. I didn’t see it and a six inch diameter branch that was four feet off the ground scratched and dented all the way down the side of my truck. Damaging from headlight to tail light.
I love my truck and finally have the drivetrain right where I want it. So I do t want to get rid of the truck. I do autobody for a living so repairing it is not a big deal. But there will be a lot of rust repair. At least to the bed. The branch ripped my wheel flare off and basically the bedside and inner and outer wheel arches are gone from rust.
The plan is to replace both bedsides, inner and outer wheel houses. Fix doors and fender. And pull cab and bed to por15 the frame and undersides of cab and bedside. Also gonna put cowl hood new headlights and tail lights and installing fourth gen seats. I plan to spend all winter doin this in my garage. So my question is, is there anything you recommend for me to do to motor to keep it healthy from not being used over the winter. Like should I drain all fluids or put some type of additive in it or what? Then also, is there anything you guys can recommend I do to the truck while everything is completely torn apart that would help make truck last longer, or perform better, or anything like that.
 

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I just did a body off resto on my truck. Don’t waste your time with por-15 if your going to the work of pulling the cab and box. I did ALOT of research on what to coat my frame with because I wanted it to last a long time. So I sandblasted mine as well as the axles and coated them with three coats of epoxy primer. Stuff is tough as nails and I’m so happy I went that route. I’ve had friends do the POR-15 and after 2 years they’re all as rusty as they were before doing it.
 

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If the truck is sitting.. I would drain as much fuel as possible and then add about 3 to 5 gallons back, then treat the fuel and run the truck post treatment to distribute the treated fuel everywhere. That should prep the fuel system for the time the truck will be sitting..

As far as anything else goes.. just leave it all. Oil is a great preservative.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

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Subscribing. That's a serious restoration project and should be interesting to follow. Hoping you'll post a few pictures as the project moves along.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for feedback.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Here’s what I’m working with. Should be a fun project. My truck has spent its whole life outside and through Midwest winters so it hasn’t had the best life. But the only reason I’m down for doin this is because I recently bought a house with a big enough garage to keep the truck in. So figured if I do it all and do it right, and am able to store it indoors, then it should live for many more years.
 

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I would suggest just finding a guy in your area that brings beds up from down south. You'd be surprised what you find on craigs or Facebook marketplace. If you are doing an OEM color match you won't even have to spray it. I could have a super clean bed tomorrow for $2000 in my area.
 

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Exactly what I was going to say ^^^

Why waste time on fixing your POS bed, when a clean take-off bed is easier and cheaper?

I have tentative plans to restore my '07 as well, but I need something else to drive so I can go nuts and have it perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have thought about that. But my concern is the factory dodge corrosion protection. Just cause I get a bed from south that looks and seems good doesn’t mean In a couple years I’ll be dealing with the same corrosion problems. Now I could add more corrosion protection to the used bed and seam seal the seams better than the factory did but I think the problem is in between the panels where the welds are. So I don’t know if that could necessarily be stopped. Since I work at a body shop I can get both bedsides and inner and outer wheel houses for around 1500. And I had planned on completely panel bonding the outer panels back on that way there would be no burn through anywhere from welding making it “forever” corrosion free. Then por15 everything else underneath to prevent the surface rust from spreading further.
But I still have looked at used beds and am not completely against just using one. And I’m not worried about color match cause the whole truck is gettin painted anyway. I am a little concerned about finding a good used bed though. I had an 06 ram come into my shop a couple of years ago and the guy was hauling a fifth wheel that came undone and completely smashed the front and back of bed making it unrepairable. And dodge doesn’t sell complete bed assembly’s for those years anymore so we had to find used. And I remember it taking my parts guy a very long time to actually find a “rust free” one. And even the one we found needed 20hrs of repair time before it could be painted. But I don’t know where my parts guy actually found it. He may have only been looking local at the time.
Luckily I have a spare vehicle to be able to do this job. And I’m really in no hurry with it either. Just want it done right and when the funds let me do it. It will probably be a good time to go through the tranny again, and maybe add a billet intermediate shaft, and maybe replace my stock he351 in my compound system with a bigger tater built turbo, and possibly do some powder coating to turbo housings and suspension parts and stuff too just to freshen everything up a bit. We’ll see what happens. Gonna be a journey for sure.
 

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OP that whole side of the bed could be replaced w/o welding patch panels , tons of body filler , beating on panels with hammer and spoon dent pulling and the likes.
Drilling spot welds on a a vehicles body and replaced whole panels using the same technique the manufacturer did to assemble it usually is more cost effective , complete body panels are dirt cheap , easy to install and come out flawless when done correct. Its truly the proper way to repair damaged vehicle body panels. I would do that over buying anything used unless I need a whole bed for some reason and you can fully inspect what your buying. Rust can hide and these trucks arent getting younger. Given the proper attention unlike when first built and sealed properly they will last allot longer than when the vehicle was first built.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
That’s exactly what I just said. No patch panels were ever mentioned. It’s much easier and less time consuming to just replace the whole panel. Plus it will last much longer
 

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I just did a body off resto on my truck. Don’t waste your time with por-15 if your going to the work of pulling the cab and box. I did ALOT of research on what to coat my frame with because I wanted it to last a long time. So I sandblasted mine as well as the axles and coated them with three coats of epoxy primer. Stuff is tough as nails and I’m so happy I went that route. I’ve had friends do the POR-15 and after 2 years they’re all as rusty as they were before doing it.
Been there done that. 2 years after your friends with POR-15, you'll be back in the same boat. Epoxy primer is tough but if you drive that truck in the winter mark my words you'll have spots coming up rusty as well no matter how well you painted.

Now if you had galvanized the frame and coated it with epoxy paint afterwards, you'd be growing oranges in Alaska... :) That's the direction I'm going with my 1st gen body off restoration.
 

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I just did a body off resto on my truck. Don’t waste your time with por-15 if your going to the work of pulling the cab and box. I did ALOT of research on what to coat my frame with because I wanted it to last a long time. So I sandblasted mine as well as the axles and coated them with three coats of epoxy primer. Stuff is tough as nails and I’m so happy I went that route. I’ve had friends do the POR-15 and after 2 years they’re all as rusty as they were before doing it.
Been there done that. 2 years after your friends with POR-15, you'll be back in the same boat. Epoxy primer is tough but if you drive that truck in the winter mark my words you'll have spots coming up rusty as well no matter how well you painted.

Now if you had galvanized the frame and coated it with epoxy paint afterwards, you'd be growing oranges in Alaska... <img src="http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" /> That's the direction I'm going with my 1st gen body off restoration.
Absolutely nothing lasts forever. The epoxy has been pretty damn tough so far, but you’re right, it will eventually come through. You can only get a paint gun in so many places. Galvanizing first would be a great idea.

I’m not driving mine in the winter months so my epoxy should last a very long time. I was told by many body guys out there that this was the way to go and I don’t regret it at all.
 

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Also pick your brand of epoxy. None of them are the same either. I went with SPI. Do your research on the car body forums. You’ll see how quickly who has the toughest and best quality epoxy.
 

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I am in agreement on the por15. I bought into it cause its easy to apply with a brush or spray but its just another type of lipstick for the pig. Fluid film seems to be working better for me on a very different mentality.
 

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Not sure if this correct place for this or not but hoping to get some of yourideas.
I’ve had my truck now for 12 years and up till now I’ve kept it in pretty decent shape. Or so I thought. But a couple of weeks ago I was driving home down a two lane winding highway at night and there was a freshly fallen tree that landed just over the white line and into my lane. I didn’t see it and a six inch diameter branch that was four feet off the ground scratched and dented all the way down the side of my truck. Damaging from headlight to tail light.
I love my truck and finally have the drivetrain right where I want it. So I do t want to get rid of the truck. I do autobody for a living so repairing it is not a big deal. But there will be a lot of rust repair. At least to the bed. The branch ripped my wheel flare off and basically the bedside and inner and outer wheel arches are gone from rust.
The plan is to replace both bedsides, inner and outer wheel houses. Fix doors and fender. And pull cab and bed to por15 the frame and undersides of cab and bedside. Also gonna put cowl hood new headlights and tail lights and installing fourth gen seats. I plan to spend all winter doin this in my garage. So my question is, is there anything you recommend for me to do to motor to keep it healthy from not being used over the winter. Like should I drain all fluids or put some type of additive in it or what? Then also, is there anything you guys can recommend I do to the truck while everything is completely torn apart that would help make truck last longer, or perform better, or anything like that.
I would just try to locate a new bed from the southwest and swap the whole thing. It would save a lot of time and money. I see a lot of them advertised from $500 to $1,200.
 

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Absolutely nothing lasts forever. The epoxy has been pretty damn tough so far, but you’re right, it will eventually come through. You can only get a paint gun in so many places. Galvanizing first would be a great idea.

I’m not driving mine in the winter months so my epoxy should last a very long time. I was told by many body guys out there that this was the way to go and I don’t regret it at all.
Also pick your brand of epoxy. None of them are the same either. I went with SPI. Do your research on the car body forums. You’ll see how quickly who has the toughest and best quality epoxy.
hey I'm not knocking your choice, most of the result will depend on prep and you've gone the distance there :thumbsup:

my previous strategy was to just paint everything with cheap epoxy paint (Tremclad) cause it's easier to touch up. now I can do that but with the galvanizing it will never rust from the inside out.

I've pulled galvanized fence post out of the ground and even the bottom part is still mint with no rust. stuff that's been in the ground in moisture for over 50 years. perhaps not forever but longer than I've ever seen from any paint on metal alone :D
 

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Absolutely nothing lasts forever. The epoxy has been pretty damn tough so far, but you’re right, it will eventually come through. You can only get a paint gun in so many places. Galvanizing first would be a great idea.

I’m not driving mine in the winter months so my epoxy should last a very long time. I was told by many body guys out there that this was the way to go and I don’t regret it at all.
Also pick your brand of epoxy. None of them are the same either. I went with SPI. Do your research on the car body forums. You’ll see how quickly who has the toughest and best quality epoxy.
hey I'm not knocking your choice, most of the result will depend on prep and you've gone the distance there <img src="http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/images/smilies/Thumbup19[1].gif" border="0" alt="" title="Thumbs Up" class="inlineimg" />

my previous strategy was to just paint everything with cheap epoxy paint (Tremclad) cause it's easier to touch up. now I can do that but with the galvanizing it will never rust from the inside out.

I've pulled galvanized fence post out of the ground and even the bottom part is still mint with no rust. stuff that's been in the ground in moisture for over 50 years. perhaps not forever but longer than I've ever seen from any paint on metal alone <img src="http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Big Grin" class="inlineimg" />
I’ve never seen a tremclad epoxy paint.

Epoxy paint has the epoxy and a catalyst that you have to mix and the stuff turns to almost a plastic like harness. And it’s easy to touch up too, that’s why I used it.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Very interesting to hear all this about the por15. I remember a couple years ago it was all the craze.
Guess it took that many years for people to realize it’s not holding up now.
 
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