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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hello, I am removing my Hvac box due to it being kicked to and shattered on the bottom (the part that hangs down into the passenger compartment). i have called around and all the shops in my area charge 180-290 to repressurise the system once i get everything back together. i have read online of these do it your self kits that claim to work. can i just buy these and do it myself?

the system has no freon in it, was like that when i bought it. not sure how long its been empty.

pics of where im at: (the reason the dash is out is im swaping it with my 1500's dash as i prefer a black interior) imgur: the simple image sharer
 

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well you have to take into account also the oil in the A/C system

to much oil you wont have cold air and you will flood the evap too little and your compressor will shred itself apart.

also you dont go by pressure you go by pounds, you might need 2 pounds but you need to look it up

*btw* Freon is R12 which has been banned for consumer use in 1996 you probably have R134a what year is your truck?
 

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I do not recommend using the do it your self kits. They are not accurate. Also you need to replace the accumulator as you have opened the system to moisture.

Btw our trucks are a 2 pound system.
 

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well you have to take into account also the oil in the A/C system

to much oil you wont have cold air and you will flood the evap too little and your compressor will shred itself apart.

also you dont go by pressure you go by pounds, you might need 2 pounds but you need to look it up

*btw* Freon is R12 which has been banned for consumer use in 1996 you probably have R134a what year is your truck?
he proably has r134a...we all just call it freon lol
 

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Newer desiccants (XH7-XH9) do not absorb moisture from the air. It shouldn't be necessity to replace the accumulator.

Air in a working system is a no-no. Purging the lines while filling is kind of hokey. To evacuate the system properly will require a strong vacuum pump. Even then, since it doesn't have any refrigerant, you don't know if any of the refrigeration loop is any good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
ill look around, maybe ill just put it on my tires plus card. im only going to put in one seat and a few bolts on the metal dash frame to drive it down teh block. where ever i bring it should get a kick out of the ease of access
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
what tool is required to separate the AC lines under the hood?
 

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I found a way to shade-tree it for two cans of r-134a, start it up and fill with two cans of freon. Shut it off and drainthe freon out until the sound dissapates to where you can't hear it, I put my ear right up to the valve and listen to just when it quits blowing out, then I repeat it, then recharge to the recommended charge, I have used this method for years before being able to buy a good vacuam pump, I still have a 1984 Suburban that has been in service for 7 yrs with no freon added and blows ice cold. Chevokeeman
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
im debating... it would be about 70 bucks to buy all the stuff needed to do it myself vs 150 to have it done for me at jiffy lube.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
updates: turns out there was some pressure in teh system. when i touched teh AC lines to place the quick disconnect tool on them, they exploded. the connection shot appart and i got sprayed with a ton of coolant. is green coolant suppose to come out of the ac lines?
 

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Some one must have added leak detecter dye to find a leak at some time in the past because there is no way as far as I know to get engine anti-freeze into the a/c lines so the old trick of charging it with a can and draining it out a couple of times then re-charging the system should work for a temporary fix until you can afford to have a shop recharge it right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
hmm, that could be. im off to the salvage yard now to get a new box assembly. the evap core and heater core look ok, no rust or dents or anything. im thinking of just keeping them. i clean my computers radiator with vinegar during its maintenance, should i do the same for the heater core and evap core?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
i found a hvac box at a salvage yard for 107.00 i bought that today and plan to reinstall tomorrow. the heater core and condencer both look good so im going ot keep them in. jiffy lube says the most they will charge is 150 to recharge a system.
 

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If you look around under the hood there will be a sticker detailing how much and what kind of a/c gas the system uses.It's should be r134a.It's also advisable to vacuum an a/c system to draw out any moisture and air but not absolutely necessary.
 
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