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Discussion Starter #1
I started the install of my new vp today, also found a boost leak i suspected i had. The line for the boost pressure was broke about half way through right at the air intake. The thing I found weird is i was still pushing 28 psi. when i thought i noticed a boost leak, and haven't really noticed any change latley in the boost gauge readings. Anyone else find this wierd? But my big problem is there was oil in my air intake, just enough to leave a coating on it. The only thing I can thing of is that it might be coming from my turbo. How would I check this and where else could it be coming from. Thanks in advance.
 

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if you are running an oiled air filter, they let oil in... but it might be the turbo itself. is there oil on the blades of the turbo?

also on the boost leak, i was still hitting 40+ psi with a massive leak too. its not too uncommon to still see pretty good boost psi even with a leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I haven't had a chance to look at the blades of the turbo latley, last time I looked i didn't see any on the intake side of the turbo. If the oil leak was on the exhaust side it wouldn't show up in the intake would it? I do have an oiled filter. Also this winter i had been running with the vacuum pump disconect and had not noticed it for a while, and i've been told that can cause oil leaks, could it come from that?
 

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As far as oil in the intake, I would suspect too much oil on filter or turbo seals are out. The seals in my hy went bad and was leaving just a coating on the inside of the intercooler boots is where I first noticed it. That's why I have a hx-35 swap in my sig now!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
well i'm pretty sure it's coming from the turbo, will it hurt to drive my truck for a little like this as long as i make sure to keep up with the oil, getting the vp and apps has got my finances pretty drained.
 

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As long as it's just a light coating it'll be alright to keep running it. The only danger to running like that is that it could cause the engine to "run away" or actually combust the oil from the intake but it's not likely.
 

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IS IT USING OIL TO ANY NOTICABLE DEGREE??????? If no oil loss you are good to go. Check turbo for end play and axial movemnet.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ran into another problem, I was trying to take the pump support bracket and stripped the head of the bolt. Anybody got any ideas to get them out, they are stuck pretty good. I tried using a smaller standard socket after it stripped, but couldn't get it on there. also tried visegrips and just don't have the room to get them in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
well i Got the bolts out i needed, i'm just curious how hard the injection pump is supposed to come out. I've got the gear puller as tight as i can with out using a cheater bar, the gear puller is bending, and the vp or gear have no sign of moving.
 

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Did you get all 4 bolts at the back of the pump? Mine popped out pretty easy last week. I did give er a little tap with rubber mallet, but I do mean little. And you got the nut and washer off the VP gear? Just askin cause those and that bracket are all that hold er on.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Did you get all 4 bolts at the back of the pump? Mine popped out pretty easy last week. I did give er a little tap with rubber mallet, but I do mean little. And you got the nut and washer off the VP gear? Just askin cause those and that bracket are all that hold er on.
yeah, everything you mentioned is removed. I have read several different instructions on how to get it off just to make sure i didn't miss anything. I got it now so i can wiggle the vp44, but it seems that the gear is also. I've already stripped out 2 gearpullers now too. Something doesn't seem right to me. Got any ideas guys, i've got two days into this now. Oh, I also tried hitting it will a mallett also.
 

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My only idea from here is when the pump was installed the keyway must not have been aligned and they forced it together. Try some prying and WD 40. just dont gall the mating surfaces.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
My only idea from here is when the pump was installed the keyway must not have been aligned and they forced it together. Try some prying and WD 40. just dont gall the mating surfaces.
well I tried prying on it and still didn't get anywhere. I got another gear puller, got it tightened up and put some WD-40 on it and i'm gonna let it sit over night and see if maybe the change in tempature might be enough to loosen it up. If that doesn't work the only thing i can think of to do is pull off everything on the front so I can get a better hit with a hammer on the gear puller, or try heating up the gear with a small torch. What do you guys think I should try next?:confused013:
 

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just checking but make sure all the bolts are removed even thoes torex headed ones that attach to the block (leave one nut on loosely by the timing cover, so the pump dont go flying when it does brake loose)
if any of the bolts are holding the pump, the puller cant push the VP off of the gear, you might find it easier to pull the rad out to give more room to swing a hammer to hit the puller, vibration + a loaded puller usually wins
 

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Discussion Starter #15
just checking but make sure all the bolts are removed even thoes torex headed ones that attach to the block (leave one nut on loosely by the timing cover, so the pump dont go flying when it does brake loose)
if any of the bolts are holding the pump, the puller cant push the VP off of the gear, you might find it easier to pull the rad out to give more room to swing a hammer to hit the puller, vibration + a loaded puller usually wins
With the torx head your talking about is the one for the pump support bracket right? Because from what I see of mine it's two peices. Two 10mm nuts attach to the vp and another 10mm nut ties the two peices together. I didn't take off the torx screws that attach the other piece of the bracket because I didn't think it was necessary. Am I missing something?:confused013:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well I took the mirror and some better light and got a good look at the slot were the key way is supposed to go, and i don't see a keyway. Should I be able to see it? Also if the key was smashed in I guess i can expect to be buying a knew gear also right? I'm not sure how long this vp has been on, but i have had it over a year and 30,000 miles. How would it just be throwing a code and acting up now if they smashed the key way or just left it out? BTW Thanks for the help, it's greatly apperciated.
 

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So to be clear on the bracket, TWO bolts hold the bracket to the pump, theyre underneath, and TWO go into the block. Taking the two off the block will free the bracket. If you do end up taking the radiatior out, the fan should be a 36mm, righty loosie, leftie tighty on it, leave the belt on and smack it with a hammer. Two sets of hands for the windshield washer reservoir helps, or jamming a screwdriver in the back while youre gettin it outta the bottom helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well the only think holding me up now is that gear will not come off. we got another steering wheel puller in there, but this time after hitting it the best we could it started to stretch the grade 5 bolts. I'm wondering if instead of steering wheel puller if i got the special pullers that snap-on or blue chip got would help. Do any of you guys think that would do any better? I just want some opinions before I go and Blow another 40-50 bucks.
 

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Any good T - bar puller should do it. I think I paid under $20 for mine, its about 3/4" inch thick start thinkin about ways to catch the metal shavings/pieces that come out. Somethings gotta be bound.
 

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did you pull the torex bolts out?
 
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