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Replacing my head gasket.

3K views 29 replies 6 participants last post by  Letzgoracin301 
#1 ·
But to order new head gasket. Just wondering what I should go with. I really need to order it today. I'm default buying head studs, but what kind? Where can I get the best deal on this stuff?
 
#2 ·
bump......
 
#4 ·
With the mods you have listed. I would have the head o-ringed, use a stock 24v gasket, and standard arp studs.

Paul
 
#5 · (Edited)
Who here has replaced there head gasket? Is there really anything super important to keep in mind? Like installing the studs, or tdc? Anything like that?
 
#6 ·
also what about a cometic head gasket?
 
#8 ·
No orings? What kind of boost are you runing?
 
#9 ·
Stevencritt, i used FelPro Headgasket and stock style head bolts, I torqued my head down to 135ft lbs torque; I've been running close to 50psi for three years and still no problems.

A few things you need to make sure of, clean out the holes with compressed air to get the oil/coolant out of the threads, and make sure you follow the torque sequince(down to every detail). You should be fine.
 
#10 ·
Well yea that I won't have a problem with. I'm just a little worried about sting the valves.
 
#11 ·
if i cant get my head o-ringed. would yall recommend putting on a cr head gasket??
 
#13 ·
Here's my $.02 worth on my head gasket experiences;
I was running 100hp nozzles with a factory turbo and an Edge box. I could roll about 45lbs of boost outta that little turbo, then the gasket blew apart 500 miles from home in the winter pulling a trailer. What a mess!!! I didn't feel like doing the job twice so it took an extra 10 days to do the project, but I went with ARP studs clamped to 130lbs, OEM Cummins gasket and had the head o-ringed. That lasted just over a year and the dreaded 53 block cracked. New block, 150 sticks and HTT 62/71/13 turbo that rolls about 55-58lbs of boost. Well that gasket lasted about 10 months and the gasket crapped the farm. I had the head fireringed and clamped the studs to 180lbs and no issues so far 2 years later, KNOCK ON WOOD!!!! Being I live in the northern climates and the extreme cold to hot temps the engine goes through we are a little harder on gaskets than most. NC doesn't get that cold and I'd say you really don't have to go and get it fireringed, but I'd take the extra time and spend a little extra $$ and definately get it oringed and studded, especially if your pushing much over 45lbs of boost. Sure, it's easy for us to sit here and spend YOUR money, but.... LOL!!!
 
#14 ·
Here's my $.02 worth on my head gasket experiences;
I was running 100hp nozzles with a factory turbo and an Edge box. I could roll about 45lbs of boost outta that little turbo, then the gasket blew apart 500 miles from home in the winter pulling a trailer. What a mess!!! I didn't feel like doing the job twice so it took an extra 10 days to do the project, but I went with ARP studs clamped to 130lbs, OEM Cummins gasket and had the head o-ringed. That lasted just over a year and the dreaded 53 block cracked. New block, 150 sticks and HTT 62/71/13 turbo that rolls about 55-58lbs of boost. Well that gasket lasted about 10 months and the gasket crapped the farm. I had the head fireringed and clamped the studs to 180lbs and no issues so far 2 years later, KNOCK ON WOOD!!!! Being I live in the northern climates and the extreme cold to hot temps the engine goes through we are a little harder on gaskets than most. NC doesn't get that cold and I'd say you really don't have to go and get it fireringed, but I'd take the extra time and spend a little extra $$ and definately get it oringed and studded, especially if your pushing much over 45lbs of boost. Sure, it's easy for us to sit here and spend YOUR money, but.... LOL!!!
 
#15 ·
Here's my $.02 worth on my head gasket experiences;
I was running 100hp nozzles with a factory turbo and an Edge box. I could roll about 45lbs of boost outta that little turbo, then the gasket blew apart 500 miles from home in the winter pulling a trailer. What a mess!!! I didn't feel like doing the job twice so it took an extra 10 days to do the project, but I went with ARP studs clamped to 130lbs, OEM Cummins gasket and had the head o-ringed. That lasted just over a year and the dreaded 53 block cracked. New block, 150 sticks and HTT 62/71/13 turbo that rolls about 55-58lbs of boost. Well that gasket lasted about 10 months and the gasket crapped the farm. I had the head fireringed and clamped the studs to 180lbs and no issues so far 2 years later, KNOCK ON WOOD!!!! Being I live in the northern climates and the extreme cold to hot temps the engine goes through we are a little harder on gaskets than most. NC doesn't get that cold and I'd say you really don't have to go and get it fireringed, but I'd take the extra time and spend a little extra $$ and definately get it oringed and studded, especially if your pushing much over 45lbs of boost. Sure, it's easy for us to sit here and spend YOUR money, but.... LOL!!!
 
#16 ·
I only have a 1000 bucks to spend on this maybe a little more. So I'm just trying to make the best decision with what I have to spend.
 
#18 ·
Stay away from fire rings on a DD unless you plan on cutting the grove in the head and the block. O rings are the way to go on DD. A new gasket, studs, o-rings can be had EASILY for under a grand. Setting the valves is a piece of cake on these things. Just do a few searches and you will find everything you need to know and it can be done in around an hour or so.
 
#19 ·
any special tools?
 
#20 · (Edited)
i didnt use anything special except the turning tool i made cause my balancer was off. i am going to try a box end crows foot to avoid taking off the rockers when i do my retorque. my o rings complete top end gasket kit and studs were 1000 out the door dropped it off Wednesday had it back Friday. There is also a few things you can do with the valve lash to help your performance a little i tightened mine up to .09 and .16 thats not the final setting though im gonna play with it a little try a few things east coast told me.
 
#21 ·
How would you turn it with the balancer on?
 
#22 ·
put a socket on one of the bolts put a ratchet on it and carefully roll it over! but its not recommended cause the stress on the bolts and the fact that the ratchet will fly off and bust the bridge of your nose WIDE OPEN< i speak from experience on that one!
 
#23 ·
The easiest way to turn the engine over is by using the Injection pump nut, a 27mm will get the job done twice as fast(gear reduction). also the TDC is on that gear.
 
#24 ·
I don't remember the prices exactly, but the studs were like $400, and I had the head fireringed and fireringed gasket for like another $400-$500. Oringing should be a little cheaper. I also gat a barring tool from my local Snap-On guy. I paid way too much for it, though. You can get them from Geno's Garage for like $40. I think I paid like $140 for mine!! The barring tool goes in the front hole on the right side of the trans and it turns the engine over using the flex plate (flywheel). I only got the head fireringed, I didn't do the block. I haven't had any issues so far, KNOCK ON WOOD!!!:thumbsup:
 
#26 · (Edited)
Well I'm gonna finish taking my head off today or tomorrow. I talked to fbd today and he live only 80 miles from me. So I'm gonna run it to him to take care of it. At least I know the job will get done right! I'm getting it o-ringed and studded. Hope it holds up this time.
 
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