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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 2004.5 2500 is having intermittent lift pump issues. The pump is original style and mounted to the FF housing. I replaced the pump several weeks ago because I was having a low rough idle for 2-6 seconds at the first start of the day. I also replace both FFs at the time. The stock one in the housing and the 2 quart 2-3 micron I've added at the tank. The problem has kind of gone away and I am not totally sure if it's the pump again OR the power supply to the pump. There are no codes or CELs on.
I'm over it and ordered a BD Diesel Performance 1050227. This will mount at the tank and before either filter so it will be a pusher pump. I'll put this on a new separate relay with it's own fuse. Does anyone know a good source to use to trigger the relay from so it receives power in the on and crank key positions?
If you've done this or thought about doing this I'd love your input. Thank you.
 

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I've ran my 06 with literally no lift pump. Well it was there but it was dead. Zero problems starting and running. I'm not sure that you're throwing the right parts at the problem.

Sorry I'm lazy on wiring I'd just tap an ignition wire LOL.
 

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All your doing is replacing with different pump same problem, that's 2Gen pump is loud and won't fair better then the canister mounted pump.

You can use the same harness that powers the canister pump, Just make jumper wire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
All your doing is replacing with different pump same problem, that's 2Gen pump is loud and won't fair better then the canister mounted pump.

You can use the same harness that powers the canister pump, Just make jumper wire.
Relocating the pump to the tank so it doesn't have to suck from a filter it was never designed to have is fixing a problem, if only in my mind.
Powering off a new power source instead of the ECM with internal relay that can't be fixed seems like an improvement to me.
I'll test the fuse box under the hood and see what will work for a power source.
 

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What makes you say it's having lift pump issues? The only example you gave - rough idle for a few seconds after start - isn't screaming "lift pump problem" to me as a guy who has ran without one. Just trying to save you some trouble.
 

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Relocating the pump to the tank so it doesn't have to suck from a filter it was never designed to have is fixing a problem, if only in my mind.
Powering off a new power source instead of the ECM with internal relay that can't be fixed seems like an improvement to me.
I'll test the fuse box under the hood and see what will work for a power source.

You need to have power source cut off, Your only using the source for relay trigger.

If you don't use cut off source, only ignition on/off if you were to have crash with ignition on and the feed line was severed you would be continuing to pump fuel, The OEM source is programed to run xx seconds without engine running then shutdown.

I do agree pushing fuel is more beneficial. NONE the less the pump used in the kit is not much better then OEM canister pump, You better off Buying raptor or Fass drop standalone pump.... don't buy those darn utility pumps both fass/Dog make.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You need to have power source cut off, Your only using the source for relay trigger.

If you don't use cut off source, only ignition on/off if you were to have crash with ignition on and the feed line was severed you would be continuing to pump fuel, The OEM source is programed to run xx seconds without engine running then shutdown.

I do agree pushing fuel is more beneficial. NONE the less the pump used in the kit is not much better then OEM canister pump, You better off Buying raptor or Fass drop standalone pump.... don't buy those darn utility pumps both fass/Dog make.
I've had intermittent pump run issues. Even after a quick swap out with canister mounted replacement it was better but new pump would not run 3 key attempts in a row. I probably have an internal ECM issue. This would eliminate that issue.
Now thinking about a crash scenario. Is there a crash sensor? Will air bag deployment kill the engine? If engine doesn't shut off from the crash how will ECM know to cut fuel pump power?
I clearly have more research to do.
I need a wiring diagram for the ECM and all it's inputs.
 

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Lucky, the the ECM has internal clock, If you turn the key, it will run for about 15 Seconds then shut off, you need to wait 3 minutes+ ( Key in off position) for the internal clock to reset itself for pump engagement.

That's why we tell everyone when changing injectors or CP3 to turn key wait 15 seconds crank 3-5 Seconds, wait 3 minutes and repeat 3 more times, if it don't start call us. Now this being said if your not TC customer and you need to call us!!!!! start of with some fast/good words or it will be Hmmmmm....
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Lucky, the the ECM has internal clock, If you turn the key, it will run for about 15 Seconds then shut off, you need to wait 3 minutes+ ( Key in off position) for the internal clock to reset itself for pump engagement.

That's why we tell everyone when changing injectors or CP3 to turn key wait 15 seconds crank 3-5 Seconds, wait 3 minutes and repeat 3 more times, if it don't start call us. Now this being said if your not TC customer and you need to call us!!!!! start of with some fast/good words or it will be Hmmmmm....
That makes sense. I was unaware of the timer. Thank you.
I will use the ECM lead to trigger a relay. I'll also add a pair of small pilot lights at the gauge cluster so I can see if I have power to the relay and to the pump, If it does it again after the pump replacement.
I just don't have this kind of problem with the 12 valve and mechanical pump.
 
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