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Removing Injection Pump, A Few ?"s

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Howdy All, Here comes a long post.

Removing my IP for replacement, I have the sticky plunger/warped barrel syndrome that seems to come up on 94/95's. I am following the procedures in the factory service manual. Got a few questions.

1. I haven't procured a barring tool yet, which I'm finding to be a drag. How should I resist the engine from turning over while trying to loosen the gear nut? Alternator bolt works fine to turn it over but not to resist the large force it takes to loosen that nut. Chain-style vice grip on the crankshaft pulley?

2. Should I fret about TDC? I am planning to just use the timing pin method, but have heard rumblings about inaccuracy in this method.

3. The fourth instruction in the manual says "disconnect the main engine wiring harness at top of injection pump and position to the side". I can't find anywhere to disconnect this harness, if I am correct that it is the wire cluster that runs right over the top of the pump and is very much in the way. Any thoughts?

4. Figure 21 in the manual on page 14-132 (1995 manual) shows a wastegate line coming from the rear of the afc. Mine has the vacuum line, but no wastegate line teeing out of it. Weird. I'm not too worried about it, but it is just strange.

5. Removed overflow valve, but not the entire return line. It seems like the other end of the line is hidden away in a powerful manner. I unbolted a line support bracket from the pump as well, will this be enough to sneak the pump out?

6. I disconnected the high pressure lines at the delivery valves, but it seems like the lines need to come off entirely to remove the pump. True?

7. I don't have a t-bar puller for separating the gear from the shaft. I was going to drill 2 holes in a small piece of channel stock to send the 8x1.25 bolts through. Anyone know the distance between the puller holes on the gear?

8. How heavy is this thing? Will I need a helper when time comes for it to be lifted out?

Sure would appreciate any help on these questions. Hope everyone is having a fine weekend. Nevermind that Super Bowl baloney--spend your weekend helping me!!
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use a wrench or socket on the harmonic balancer bolts to rotate the engine over... the alternator trick didn't work on any 12v i've ever seen. ENGINE MUST BE @ TDC AND PINNED, line up the hole through the gear case under the IP with a flashlight and a mirror... you should be able to get it fairly close by taking off the 1st valve cover and watching the valves.... then get a partner to slowly rotate the engine while ur finger is in the hole feelin for the bump on the cam gear, then pop in the pin and leave it.... also while your spinning the motor over wth the harmonic balancer, you can loosen up the bolts. pop the peice of plastic that holds the wiring harness off with a screw driver or just cut it... ( it helps if you unplug/unhook everything after the fuel filter then pick up the wiring and drape it up and over out of the way towards the turbo side) Your afc must be unhooked, there is an oil line that must be unhooked it's in the middleish of the pump and down on the block side of it. pull out your OFV and leave that metal hardline there, same with the feed line from the fuel filter... just pull the banjo bolt then leave the line sitting... pull your injector lines and the air horn for ease of working. When i did mine i was changing out my rad and intercooler anyway, so i ripped the whole front end apart, removed the front gear cover and pulled the pump gear with a standard steeringwheel puller.... made it easy to find TDC as well because the crank and cam gears have dots that line up. (mine also had paint on it, so i'm thinkin sumone had a cam in it before i bought it and then swapped the stocker back in)


get like 3 extensions and have fun getting the 4 nuts off that hold the pump.

the pump ain't that bad really... i'd say maybe 20ish pounds... just kinda awkward cuz it's so long and it kinda hangs up on everything on the way out...
 

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i Just done mine and it aint that bad but it is time consuming. i pulled the fuel filer bracket off along with the lines going to the ip just to make it easier to get the ip out. if you have the mech manual you should have it all in the book. I would definatly stuff a rag in the bottom side of the hole when you pulling that gear nut just incase you drop it it may not go into the bottom of the timming cover.

If you take and do a search on youtube.com there are quite a few posts that will come in very handy i watched a few before i pulled mine and its a nite and day difference.
 

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use a wrench or socket on the harmonic balancer bolts to rotate the engine over... the alternator trick didn't work on any 12v i've ever seen. ENGINE MUST BE @ TDC AND PINNED, line up the hole through the gear case under the IP with a flashlight and a mirror... you should be able to get it fairly close by taking off the 1st valve cover and watching the valves.... then get a partner to slowly rotate the engine while ur finger is in the hole feelin for the bump on the cam gear, then pop in the pin and leave it.... also while your spinning the motor over wth the harmonic balancer, you can loosen up the bolts. pop the peice of plastic that holds the wiring harness off with a screw driver or just cut it... ( it helps if you unplug/unhook everything after the fuel filter then pick up the wiring and drape it up and over out of the way towards the turbo side) Your afc must be unhooked, there is an oil line that must be unhooked it's in the middleish of the pump and down on the block side of it. pull out your OFV and leave that metal hardline there, same with the feed line from the fuel filter... just pull the banjo bolt then leave the line sitting... pull your injector lines and the air horn for ease of working. When i did mine i was changing out my rad and intercooler anyway, so i ripped the whole front end apart, removed the front gear cover and pulled the pump gear with a standard steeringwheel puller.... made it easy to find TDC as well because the crank and cam gears have dots that line up. (mine also had paint on it, so i'm thinkin sumone had a cam in it before i bought it and then swapped the stocker back in)


get like 3 extensions and have fun getting the 4 nuts off that hold the pump.

the pump ain't that bad really... i'd say maybe 20ish pounds... just kinda awkward cuz it's so long and it kinda hangs up on everything on the way out...
20lbs..lol ha..ha Right...more like 50 at least.. and ya you'll feel it in those lower back muscles!!
 

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meh... wasn't that bad
 

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what you need ? we pretty much laid it out for you
 
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