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Discussion Starter #1
I have both of my rear hub seals leaking on the dust shields and dripping on the rear inside tire if it sits long enough. Curious what special tools I may need and if anything needs torquing back. Thanks for the help.

Thinking of going back with amsoil 75 90 oil, or do I just need to top off the factory fluids, only have 58,000 miles
 

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Hi

Only special tools you need is the 6 point spline axle socket for the aam 11.5 to remove the hub retaining nut, a torque wrench and a seal driver. Of course you will need a socket set with other basic mechanic tools.
 

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Also you need the retaining nut torque specs. Very important as this sets proper preload for the hub bearings. Make sure to rotate the hub as you do the initial torque sequence.
 

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Here's how I do mine. Done it this way 4 times now and never had a problem.

Pull off the wheels, brake caliper and bracket. Pull the 8 bolts holding the axle in and remove the axle. You will lose a small amount of fluid here so have a pan ready. Next you will remove the large hub nut. The is secured in place by a retaining ring and square pin. The pin is at the top. Mark the face of the nut at the slot where the pin is. This is important. I use a dab of white paint.

Next, use a drift punch and hammer to tap the nut counter clock wise. A couple of taps and it should spin right off.

Now slide the rotor/hub assy off. It's fairly heavy. The outer bearing will fall out as you slide the hub off so be ready to catch it. If it drops to the ground it may get damaged.

Part of the old seal may remain on the axle. Make sure you get that off.

No need to separate the hub from the rotor.

The seal is tapped into the back side of the rotor/hub assy. Pry the old one out with a screwdriver and tap the new one in. I use a square piece of wood about 4x4 inches laid flat on top of the seal. It doesn't take much so don't beat on it. Just light taps until it seats.

Re-install is just the opposite. Be as gentle as possible when you slide the rotor assy back on so you don't damage the new seal. When you put the large nut on, tap it tight with the punch. Over tighten it by just a little, then back the nut off, then tap it tight to line up the slot that you marked in the nut with the slot in the axle.

Re-install everything else. There is a specific torque for the 8 axle bolts, but I have no idea what it is. I just tighten until tight. And your done!!

You will most likely need to replace the parking brake shoes. They are inside the hub assy and will most likely be saturated with oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I found the seal at Oreillys for $41 for a national brand seal, but can get the same national Brand seal for $17 at Rock Auto. Just have to wait on shipping.

question is, do I need to go ahead and do all new fluid change with 58,000 miles or just top off what I have till full again?
 

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You may want to purchase two new axle flange seals from the dealer. They are a paper type gasket and usually get damaged. I used some emery cloth to clean up the shaft seal mating surfaces. put a bit of grease on to help the seal out. depending on how much fluid leaks out, you may need to top it off. and like said, you generally don't need the socket for the axle nut, it shouldn't be on very tight. maybe 20ft lbs, I used a punch and small ball peen hammer with a soft tap and loosened it.
 
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factory is 75 90...

what year is your truck? if it's an 11 or newer, you could be in powertrain warranty still, and hub seals are a covered repair, usually
 

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It's a 2012 with 58,000 miles. The dealership told me that was out at 36,000 miles and I'm responsible for them now
find another one...that's a powertrain item, and powertrain is a 5/100k warranty

and i think you need to get your user name updated haha
 

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You won't lose very much oil. Maybe 1/4 cup, if that. When you jack it up to remove the wheel, all of the oil will run to the other side.

Not really enough to worry about considering it holds almost 2 gallons.

I would check further on the warranty. As stated above, it should be covered, so let them do it.
 

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actually they hold just over a gallon...and that's the 11.5 the duallies have...the 10.5 holds around half a gallon
 

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I don't know if I would trust info from a username like "dodgemech"!!! Would he even know what a seal is??
Sounds like good advise to me, the dealers around here would tell you it's out of warranty if it was a week old. I made them prove a problem I had was out with a 45 minute phone call to FCA and 2 different people who did convince me.
 

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Believe i used 4 qts for the rear.
 

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