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Discussion Starter #1
Anybody heard of rear end problems? I think mine just ate itself up. Pulled my camper down to the beach and back and I noticed it popping while turning about a 100 miles in. Now as I get home it's obviously falling out, it's popping and the wheel is jerking when it does this like it's going to break an axle. Am I the only one with wonderful luck like this? 15 2500 342 rear and 43k miles. 4500 total towing just normal stuff...

https://youtu.be/q1EDmyF33y4
 

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Anybody heard of rear end problems? I think mine just ate itself up. Pulled my camper down to the beach and back and I noticed it popping while turning about a 100 miles in. Now as I get home it's obviously falling out, it's popping and the wheel is jerking when it does this like it's going to break an axle. Am I the only one with wonderful luck like this? 15 2500 342 rear and 43k miles. 4500 total towing just normal stuff...
If there is not too much damage, drain the oil ,refill with limited slip oil. The rear end doesn't have cluches and doesn't require limited slip additive,but it has been known to help. I lost a pumpkin bearing and the fine metal powder in the oil did something to mine that caused it to do what yours is doing except not as bad,only when tuning left or right from a stop. It never dose it going straight from a stop,that is why I think the ware sleeve now needs the additive. Give it a try,but while you're at it, drop your driveshaft, pull off 4 tires and check your pinon preload with an inch pound wrench, that assuming that you don't have parts falling out when you take off the rear cover. Also drain it in a clean container so you can check the oil for metal with a magnet or by filtering it through a pantie hose or something to see how much metal. You may have caught it in TIME. These pumpkins ARE non serviceable, only the outer bearings and ring geAR can be serviced. I rebuilt my complete rear 60k back,all bearings including the pinion bearing and crush sleeve.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well, I guess that would be something under drivetrain warranty.. I guess I could let them handle it but damn, I know how that goes.. will be there for a month.. sounds like you hit the nail on the head.. I've had a lot of problems with different things in my dodges but a rear end ain't one of them.


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Dropped it off by the dealer to check. After 5 days without it I got a call stating it was ready. I go to receive a bill for 200 bucks for a fluid change. Said that I hadn't properly serviced the rear end and the slip modifier had dissipated. I knew this was bs, so I just paid and left. Hooked up my camper to head out.... same thing.... they then said it needed time to wear in and wait awhile and try it. It's getting louder as time goes by. Said I needed to drain some fluid out of the rear end and add another bottle of modifier and that would help. I'm so sick of stupid crooked dealers....
 

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Dropped it off by the dealer to check. After 5 days without it I got a call stating it was ready. I go to receive a bill for 200 bucks for a fluid change. Said that I hadn't properly serviced the rear end and the slip modifier had dissipated. I knew this was bs, so I just paid and left. Hooked up my camper to head out.... same thing.... they then said it needed time to wear in and wait awhile and try it. It's getting louder as time goes by. Said I needed to drain some fluid out of the rear end and add another bottle of modifier and that would help. I'm so sick of stupid crooked dealers....
You shouldnt have paid it, point out to them in the manual for your truck exactly where it says it requires friction modifier (which you wont find in there). Anytime you pay or sign a service invoice is like admitting guilt :frown2: it seems.

Take it back in and call chrysler customer care while your waiting in the lobby. :wink2:
 

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If you had a 1/4" piece of metal stuck to the magnet you have serious failure going on. By the sounds of it, youve either chipped a tooth off the ring/pinion or from a spider gear. In either case STOP driving the truck, as its just going to self destruct. Pop the rear diff cover off and inspect the teeth of the ring/pinion/and spiders. If you take it to the dealership insist to see the inside of the diff when they service it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah stupid me. Im like most of us on here, we all have busy lives and many things going on and know a lot about these trucks but not everything. The things I don't know I research on here if I have time and if not I've trusted in the dealer a few times. Well the last few times has been a freaking joke. It's bad when Chrysler tells me on the phone to not use that dealer anymore that he can't deal with them and the place is just problematic. Cough that up to a lesson learned. The damn thing has been so much trouble since I bought it I'm considering filing a lemon law claim against them. But what alternative do I have if they buy the truck back? Ford? Heck no... chevy? It's a 3/4 ton Tahoe... it's just been something every 6 months since I've opened it... wore out fighting
 

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ANy other dealers that Ram recommends in your area?

I would stick with a cummins anyhow, lemon trucks seem to be pretty rare but then again there are those that get hit by lightning twice in there life time.
 

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Sadly, the rear diff problems came with the American Axle. I rebuilt many AA's in these trucks under warranty, but I don't recall doing any that would make a popping sound, just bearing howl. It saddens me hearing about more and more crooked dealerships nowadays. That line about diff maintenance and friction modifier is total b.s.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Sadly, the rear diff problems came with the American Axle. I rebuilt many AA's in these trucks under warranty, but I don't recall doing any that would make a popping sound, just bearing howl. It saddens me hearing about more and more crooked dealerships nowadays. That line about diff maintenance and friction modifier is total b.s.
DO you work at a dealership?
 

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You got taken by the dealer. For one, what does friction modifier have to do with driving straight? Nothing...

The limited slip is not limiting slip when driving straight, there is no 'differential' shaft movement when driving straight.


You have a mechanical failure, more than likely a bad pinion and or ring. Based on your vid, that is not anywhere near 'normal' operation and is completely unacceptable.


Who is the dealer so others can avoid like a plague?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
You got taken by the dealer. For one, what does friction modifier have to do with driving straight? Nothing...

The limited slip is not limiting slip when driving straight, there is no 'differential' shaft movement when driving straight.


You have a mechanical failure, more than likely a bad pinion and or ring. Based on your vid, that is not anywhere near 'normal' operation and is completely unacceptable.


Who is the dealer so others can avoid like a plague?
Benchmark Ram, Chrysler, Jeep. Even Chrysler made me go somewhere else, said they couldn't deal with them.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Took the truck to a different dealer recommended by ram. After reviewing the video the tech didn't know what was wrong with the rear diff. He sent the video to ram engineers and they stated they didn't have a fix and could not determine the problem. They told the dealer to give me the truck and just drive it because they could not repair it.


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Took the truck to a different dealer recommended by ram. After reviewing the video the tech didn't know what was wrong with the rear diff. He sent the video to ram engineers and they stated they didn't have a fix and could not determine the problem. They told the dealer to give me the truck and just drive it because they could not repair it.


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:surprise:
Most likely a broken pinion gear tooth, as the wheel does not make a full turn before clanking.
I cannot believe they dealer could be so freak'n stupid. Total BS !
You need to tell them that this is obviously this is not normal operation, they need to fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I'm just wore out on fighting. This is the third time it's been there for this problem and they don't really care. I know what they're doing, kicking the can down the road to 100k.... I'll just let an attorney handle it. Sick of having to unload everything out of the truck into rentals over and over again with the same results, more problems and broken promises...
 

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Sad that you need to go this direction due to a very poor dealership.
When all is said and done and they replace your diff, make sure you hand them a bill for your attorney.
 

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Yes, send to dealer under warranty. Do not drive.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I've been to several, the last one is the "preferred " dealer by ram. Ram just left me for dead, I figured they'd just replace the diff, but nope they're not doing anything. But it's ok, it will all work out. Thank s for all y'alls help. I appreciate you guys.
 
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