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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Imagine you lock your truck up for the night. You use the keyfob, hit the lock button, hear the horn, your vehicle is secure. Or so you thought.

Now imagine that on the inside of the rear door that the lock actuator never got the burst of energy to trigger the lock to move. Now your vehicle ISNT secure. Or even more comically, you unlock your truck the next morning, but only hit the button once, which may not unlock the rear doors as well, and upon cracking the rear door, the alarm goes off and you jump or even worse, you now need a change of shorts.

How did this happen? and GD why is that horn so loud and scary!!?? AND WHERE IS MY CHANGE OF SHORTS!!!!!?????

To figure out what happens is not really rocket science if you understand physics, fatigue and different wire types.
Chrysler had this genius idea at one time to produce these harnesses with an extremely low count wire and, on top of that, with a jacket stiffer than a 15 year olds wake up time. So, inevitably, the also too short accordion boot and wire harness inside begin to stretch and tear with each opening of the door. If you use the doors a lot, a new harness wont last long. Try repairing it according to what everyone on here recommends? Same problem. Until now.

With the problem area identified and just a smidge of hobby luck, I was able to come up with an idea that with the right parts and a lot of time, a complete straight across fix for this issue could be made.

There are really only 2 components to this fix; the proprietary pins in the harness plug and the wire that goes inside the accordion boot. Here they are!
Wire;
14GA Wire(Need 5 Feet) https://www.amazon.com/14awg-Wire-Feet-Black-Electrical/dp/B07588953X/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=14ga%2Bsilicone%2Bwire&qid=1564956764&s=gateway&sr=8-8&th=1
18GA Wire(Need 10 Feet) https://www.amazon.com/14awg-Wire-Feet-Black-Electrical/dp/B075L5WL4Y/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=14ga%2Bsilicone%2Bwire&qid=1564956764&s=gateway&sr=8-8&th=1
Any silicone RC/slot car lead wire will work, it uses extremely high wire count with a silicone jacket. Addressing the issue of flexibility entirely. Keep in mind the slot car lead wire doesnt come in different gauges, just 18. So you will have to purchase the 14GA wire separate.
You will also need..
Pins;
Need 20(2 10-packs) https://connectorexperts.com/i-31643599-term181.html?ref=category:1458515
Yes, those pins are almost 3 bucks a piece and, no, you will NOT find them anywhere else. Been there, done that. I credit Eric-07 with finding the pins. Him and I have done this fix.

Lastly, you will need some kind of wire connectors for inside the door.
Posi locks, as pointed out by Dudeonthenet are a great idea. Toolless and secure. Remember to order the correct sizes for the wires!
Here is a link to some posilocks https://www.amazon.com/s?k=posi-lock&adgrpid=55268099519&gclid=CjwKCAiAlO7uBRANEiwA_vXQ-31ahzI-YWCJqSB0q7iVZ_lbIFLk7tX4D0iUPHsOS101g6yoh4H58RoC11sQAvD_BwE&hvadid=274688989605&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9030809&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=112601977701570855&hvtargid=kwd-297797424876&hydadcr=25852_10338603&tag=hydsma-20&ref=pd_sl_7k14npqxvv_e
One could use bullet connectors like I did, but what a mess and a pain to make them work. I absolutely recommend the posilocks!!!

To get started into this project, you will need to get the door panels off.
Tools needed are a #2 phillips, T40 phillips, 10mm on a ratchet with long extension and a door panel removal tool set. I also used a couple plastic spring clamps, large or small makes no difference.
If you have a mega cab, the first thing you need to do is remove the switch bezel and unplug the switch. Use your panel tool and get under the bezel and give it a gentle pry up while pushing in. It should pop out. Set the bezel aside.
Now, go ahead and remove the door handle. this is where the T40 comes in handy. I do believe the hex on the screw is 10mm if you do not have a T40. Remove the handle, it might need a tiny bit of coercion.

There will then be 3 phillips screws, one where the door handle is, and two screws at the bottom of the door panel(all the way down there!) set the screws in your magnetic dish.
With all the attachment hardware/trim taken off, the panel will now simply lift up and then off. Usually takes a little bit of jiggling and movement to get it to come off. Set it on the ground face up.

Time to pull the speaker and actuator. The speaker uses 3 phillips screws and has a plug you need to detach from it. Use your 10mm to take the 2 nuts off for the latch actuator and detach it and set it with the nuts.



This part is where the job can get a little messy. The water shield uses some shellac around the perimeter to hold it in place. carefully pull the shield away, the shellac will stretch but eventually give way and shrink back. DONT try and clean it up. It will win the mess war. Once you get the shield pulled up to the top, take your quick clamps and hold the shield in place with 2 of them.




Now its looking like we can swap the harness! Go ahead and unplug all the connectors, some are a royal pain and require small hands. Go ahead and pop the connector off in the jamb area as well. There are little teeth on the short sides of the plug where it goes into the cab pillar. Use your panel tool to get behind the rubber boot and depress one and pry out the pigtail. Unplug the connector and push the accordion boot through the door. This is a lot of fun and the door metal is thin, so try to not mangle it up, door panel tools are your friend here, again. Soapy water would also help.

To be continued.... we still have to actually fix the harnesses themselves!
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
In my case, the PO chopped up the accordion boots to fix the wires, so I had to buy two new harnesses to the tune of 125 bucks each. Got free shipping from an online mopar discounter, that helped me feel better. :grin2:


Here are the tools you need. Wire strippers, crimpers, scotch tape, pin pick tools, needle nose pliers, terminal crimper(
) and I am sure something else. Ill leave that up to you.


Here is an important picture, its crucial to consider the design of the stock harness and where it goes wrong. In this pic, you can see how long I cut the wires. I tried to match OEM length on the first harness NOT thinking about what I was doing and come the second harness I messed with the idea of the best wire length. That answer seems to be right around 9 to 9.25 inches. Its about 0.75 inches longer than OEM once spliced in. I precut all the wires to the same length and stripped them all at once. This saved a LOT of time. Strip length is very short for the terminal side. You want to strip just the length of the landing on the terminal.

Pre-strip wire ends.

After stripping jacket and twisting the strands.

Landing has been crimped down. Strain relief has yet to be done.

Strain relief crimped and terminal is ready for the pigtail. Go ahead and pin all the new wires at once. Dont pin one wire and then feed, and repeat until you are done. That will take forever.

The proper use of scotch tape in this application. Feed the wires one at a time and connect your new wires to the rest of the harness as you go. This helps keep pin location confusion to a minimum. I suggest taking pictures of the pigtails so you dont get anything confused or wrong.

Tying the two wires together with tape. Gently push and pull the wires through. Pin the wire to the pigtail AFTER feeding the new wire through the accordion boot.

See that little tab sticking up in the valley? Give that a push to help release the locking mechanism for the pins. This will allow you to pop them out.

See this retangular insert? this should have popped up slightly at this point. It will not come all the way out. Put your pick under it and pull it up as far as it goes. Dont get too aggresive with it. It only comes up about an 1/8 or 3/16 of an inch. If your pins are not just popping right out when you release the click lock in the pin end of the pigtail, pull this part up a little bit more.

Here is the pin end of the pigtail. Look closely to the left of the pin where the pin comes out of the connector. That little white tab needs to be pushed away from the pin to release it. Pull the wire while you have your pick pushing the click lock away from the pin.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Here is your pigtail all finished up with the new pins and wires.

Another shot

Giant cluster of bullet connectors. Eric and I both did this to hoepfully ease any service that may need done in the future. I wanted to use water resistant connectors, but didnt have them on hand.

Length of new wire added. This was the short harness I made. It was longer than OEM, but once installed didnt seem long enough.

Here is where I cut the wires to 9.5 inches. Fit a lot better in the door than the other. Seemed a little too long though.

Bullet connector part#

Bullet connector part#
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
With the new harness built and done all you need to do is put the harness back in the door. It snakes around and goes behind this and that and blah blah blah. Push the sharkbite hold downs into their place and connect all the QD pigtails. Lastly, run the boot and connector through the door and plug it in and set it in place. The rubber flange that comes out the door is a pain to get back into position. Astroglide or soapy water makes it a bit easier. Astroglide has many purposes, yes. Lmao

With all of the harness finished up, the water shield simply comes back down and lays over the door. Press it down around the edge to keep it from moving.

Be sure to install the door handle actuator remembering to hook up the rod. Install the speaker and be sure to plug it in.

To put the cherry on the cake, install the door panel. Pay some attention to the window switches pigtail connector so it can be accessed and also make sure the lock plunger goes into the hole. The plunger housing on the panel does pop out, I left mine and just guided it all together.

Put in the three phillips screws and install the door handle using the torx 40 or 10mm socket. Hook up the window switch and snap the bezel down into place. Install is now complete and you can enjoy your 6 pack, or 12 pack if you are one of those guys..
 

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Which terminal crimper tool (manufacturer/part number) did you use for the new terminal pins that are inserted into the connector cavities?
 

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VERY flexible wire , good job sir .
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Which terminal crimper tool (manufacturer/part number) did you use for the new terminal pins that are inserted into the connector cavities?
I figured someone would ask. Ye shall receive.

 

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Great writeup. On my not so short to do list and the step by step is much appreciated!
 
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Great write up Simon! Much more detailed then I would’ve had the patience to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Great write up Simon! Much more detailed then I would’ve had the patience to do.
That's about 4 hours of composition. It took longer to do the write up than to do the actual repair..

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I just used the original pins and soldered and heat shrinked one wire at a time and went 6 or so inches inside the door with a good quality wire and all is good with mine .
 

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So you soldered all new wires onto the original pins?
Or wire to wire with the pin keeping the original crimp?
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I just used the original pins and soldered and heat shrinked one wire at a time and went 6 or so inches inside the door with a good quality wire and all is good with mine .
That was my first instinct actually. Just because I didnt want to buy pins and then it became my sentiment later when I also saw how expensive/hard to get they were.

Nothing wrong with that. Im sure it's just as stable. I feel like this is a little more factoryesque minus the giant wad of bullet connectors.
 

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Imagine you lock your truck up for the night. You use the keyfob, hit the lock button, hear the horn, your vehicle is secure. Or so you thought.

Now imagine that on the inside of the rear door that the lock actuator never got the burst of energy to trigger the lock to move. Now your vehicle ISNT secure. Or even more comically, you unlock your truck the next morning, but only hit the button once, which may not unlock the rear doors as well, and upon cracking the rear door, the alarm goes off and you jump or even worse, you now need a change of shorts.

How did this happen? and GD why is that horn so loud and scary!!?? AND WHERE IS MY CHANGE OF SHORTS!!!!!?????

To figure out what happens is not really rocket science if you understand physics, fatigue and different wire types.
Chrysler had this genius idea at one time to produce these harnesses with an extremely low count wire and, on top of that, with a jacket stiffer than a 15 year olds wake up time. So, inevitably, the also too short accordion boot and wire harness inside begin to stretch and tear with each opening of the door. If you use the doors a lot, a new harness wont last long. Try repairing it according to what everyone on here recommends? Same problem. Until now.

With the problem area identified and just a smidge of hobby luck, I was able to come up with an idea that with the right parts and a lot of time, a complete straight across fix for this issue could be made.

There are really only 2 components to this fix; the proprietary pins in the harness plug and the wire that goes inside the accordion boot. Here they are!
Wire;
14GA Wire(Need 5 Feet) https://www.amazon.com/14awg-Wire-Feet-Black-Electrical/dp/B07588953X/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=14ga%2Bsilicone%2Bwire&qid=1564956764&s=gateway&sr=8-8&th=1
18GA Wire(Need 10 Feet) https://www.amazon.com/14awg-Wire-Feet-Black-Electrical/dp/B075L5WL4Y/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=14ga%2Bsilicone%2Bwire&qid=1564956764&s=gateway&sr=8-8&th=1
Any silicone RC/slot car lead wire will work, it uses extremely high wire count with a silicone jacket. Addressing the issue of flexibility entirely. Keep in mind the slot car lead wire doesnt come in different gauges, just 18. So you will have to purchase the 14GA wire separate.
You will also need..
Pins;
Need 20(2 10-packs) https://connectorexperts.com/i-31643600-term181b.html
Yes, those pins are almost 3 bucks a piece and, no, you will NOT find them anywhere else. Been there, done that. I credit Eric-07 with finding the pins. Him and I have done this fix.

To get started into this project, you will need to get the door panels off.
Tools needed are a #2 phillips, T40 phillips, 10mm on a ratchet with long extension and a door panel removal tool set. I also used a couple plastic spring clamps, large or small makes no difference.
If you have a mega cab, the first thing you need to do is remove the switch bezel and unplug the switch. Use your panel tool and get under the bezel and give it a gentle pry up while pushing in. It should pop out. Set the bezel aside.
Now, go ahead and remove the door handle. this is where the T40 comes in handy. I do believe the hex on the screw is 10mm if you do not have a T40. Remove the handle, it might need a tiny bit of coercion.

There will then be 3 phillips screws, one where the door handle is, and two screws at the bottom of the door panel(all the way down there!) set the screws in your magnetic dish.
With all the attachment hardware/trim taken off, the panel will now simply lift up and then off. Usually takes a little bit of jiggling and movement to get it to come off. Set it on the ground face up.

Time to pull the speaker and actuator. The speaker uses 3 phillips screws and has a plug you need to detach from it. Use your 10mm to take the 2 nuts off for the latch actuator and detach it and set it with the nuts.



This part is where the job can get a little messy. The water shield uses some shellac around the perimeter to hold it in place. carefully pull the shield away, the shellac will stretch but eventually give way and shrink back. DONT try and clean it up. It will win the mess war. Once you get the shield pulled up to the top, take your quick clamps and hold the shield in place with 2 of them.




Now its looking like we can swap the harness! Go ahead and unplug all the connectors, some are a royal pain and require small hands. Go ahead and pop the connector off in the jamb area as well. There are little teeth on the short sides of the plug where it goes into the cab pillar. Use your panel tool to get behind the rubber boot and depress one and pry out the pigtail. Unplug the connector and push the accordion boot through the door. This is a lot of fun and the door metal is thin, so try to not mangle it up, door panel tools are your friend here, again. Soapy water would also help.

To be continued.... we still have to actually fix the harnesses themselves!
The link for the pin connectors doesn’t work? I only see 181 connectors on that site are those the same as 181b?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The link for the pin connectors doesn’t work? I only see 181 connectors on that site are those the same as 181b?
The link has gone defunct... thanks for pointing that out. I'll see about updating it...

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I thought I needed a new lock actuator... Glad I saw this and thanks for the write up.
 

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Very detailed write up and OEM parts used to restore Mopar integrity.

10/10 job, thanks for posting! Will be using this guide to do the repair on my truck
 

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I soldered mine and they are all broken again. It's kinda like in the old days... "Did everyone lock their doors?"
But seriously, this fix looks great. I'm going to do it again. But right this time.
 

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The quality/flexability of the new/added wire is the key to this fix.
 

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The pin link is still 404 not found. I might have to go the route of reusing my pins...
 
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