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Hello Forum,

This is my first post on here, so bare with me. I got a 12 Cummins 6.7 Laramie Longhorn 1 year ago. After purchasing it I learned it was deleted, straight pipe, banks intake, and what I found out to be a high horsepower tune. Long story short is he drove the truck towing hard and never looked at exhaust temps and did a lot of damage to the motor. Truck shows delete happened around 15,000 and there is 111,00 on the truck. I had good luck with it up till a week ago :surprise: Coming down the hill ( We live in the mountains in CO) headed to a race near our house rigged up I engaged the jake brake and all of a sudden I felt something breka loose in the motor and then it continued to knock and double knock hard, motor shaked, and blew white till I was able to get over and turn her off. I had done all my oil changes @ 3K and had taked really good care of it. I was about to get an Edge reader, but regardless the motor probably had its damage done by the time I took ownership.

Sent it into our local professional diesel shop, and they did a compression test on the motor and stopped after the first cylinder. It had 0% compression. Shop techs said motor is toast. He melted it.

The Dealer I bought the truck from sold me a 4,500 service agreement 36,000/ or 36 months on the powertrain +. Inspector came to shop and denied the claim due to EGR delete, and exhaust mod. Dealer never told me, but my buddy I showed the truck to after I bough it told me it was deleted. I didn't mind cause I planned to do it anyways to the truck. This is my first Cummins, always been a Powerstroke guy, but had cooler problems on those trucks. So I told myself I would delete, and it was done anyway.

Long story short I have been doing a lot of research on re-manufcatured motors vs. built motors. I have a couple shops here that seem to have different opinions. I wanted to ask the group what everyone recommends I do. I am going to spend some money, but I want to do it right. I am also going to upgrade turbo, transmission, tune and programmer when I do the motor. My rig weighs around 6K.

I love the truck and motor and want to build it up right. Thanks in advance!0:)
 

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I have never bought a rebuilt engine and I have never rebuilt a diesel. Having said that, my advise would be to get a remanufactured engine from a reputable rebuilder that offers the best warranty, and check references. I think there are local rebuilders around the area but if they fold your warranty is lost. BTW, I would have the ECM returned to stock settings before firing up a new/rebuilt engine and then purchase a programmer/tune to your choosing. I have an H&S Mini Maxx on my 2011 that can be set to stock, mild, wild, and hot. I run mild when towing the 5er and wild for town driving, but run the hot setting for long highway trips for best fuel mileage. I would also recommend having head studs installed in place of the factory head bolts for a little added security. I am sure those with personal experience with engine rebuild/replacement with have names of engine vendors, at least one can hope. Keep us posted on your engine endeavor.
 
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Thanks for the advice. I will for sure reset ECM to stock before firing new motor.

Def trying to find a reputable dealer for a remanufactured with a decent warranty yes.

Ever had to do a transmission as well?
 

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Seems like it is hard to find a reputable company that will sell you a motor without issues and that stands behind their motors?

Please and advice would be very helpful. THANKS EVERYONE!
 

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Looking like I am gonna lean towards bringing the truck down to the big city "denver" to have a Diesel Shop do the work. Just trying to ensure the best shop to do the build. Got the quote from first shop for the "worst case" scenario on it today, not including transmission. I have copied some pictures in here for you guys to look at!

Looks like the following: Mahle Pistons, Upper and Lower Connecting Rod Bearings, Lower Engine Gasket Kit, Lifters/Tappets, Hamilton Cam, ARP Head Studs, OEM Injectors, Turbo and Actuator ( Do I upgrade or select other than OEM?) Machine Work on Cylinder Head - Surface and Peformance 3 Angle Valve Job, Valve Springs, Deck the Block?

Could anyone let me know if this is what I should do and if the price range is correct? Thank you!

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uQIaywY5bBgafcwsPRYqNVbSAH6G2gU1/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NUBY2f80OcOhPFb6DAQbP9EzNNDaIKnB/view?usp=sharing
 

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I have also learned about this shop in UT that I might end up taking it out 2.

I am going to call them up today and talk with him. Looks legit and might be a lot less expensive. Reviews seem solid from people who have gotten motors from this guy.

https://performancedieselrepair.com/
 

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There are a few companies in Texas that have been rebuilding nothing but diesels and mainly Cummins engines for 20 plus years. A rebuilt short block is $32-4000 I believe, your current head surface may need to be machined flat depending on how bad the damage is to the motor and what all let loose. I would look around for a builder whose been in the business for a long time and go that route. Now you can really REALLY drop some cash if you dive into the built motor scene lol its all in what your goal is for the truck end of the day.... tow with good reliable usable power OR make as much power as you can.
 
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Yah, I have contacted Cummins dealer in Grand Junction and gave them my serial # of my motor. I have heard from a shop they have had bad luck getting a re-man from Cummins for the $. I think I am better off having someone build one out if I am going to be putting this kind of change into it! Thanks for the reply tho, really.
 

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I think there is traction there for that argument for sure, uphill long battle but they may end up rebuilding it then again after an extensive fight they may still say nope it was deleted and deny the claim.
 
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If you have it rebuilt, I'd have them put a good gasket and studs in from the start. Cheap insurance.
 
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Coming from a guy who had a 5.9 rebuilt by one guy and the head freshened up by another guy...I would have saved time/money and headaches just getting a long block from a shop (not a guy that builds engines) that builds these things every day. The engine burned oil when it was fresh and I attributed it to rings not seating yet. Hooked to a trailer and towed up some good hills on a highway so I can vary RPM and load for break in and changed oil. 30k miles later, the engine still burned oil and the head guy was blaming the engine guy, engine guy blamed the guy who built the head, then they both argued that I didnt break the engine in correctly and it was my fault. I tried to explain Cummins builds these engines by the thousands and they never need an appropriate break in as some hot shotters buy one off the showroom floor, hook their loaded trailers and immediately put the truck to work with no problem... In the end I was left with either selling the truck and telling the new owner about the oil consumption or spend another 5k on an engine that could've wound up the same way... I sold the truck and bought my 2011. Just buy an engine that's dang near complete (long block) or a known used engine that's factory Cummins. Dont fall into the "this guy builds lots of engines" crap. It's a tad more money but in the event something goes wrong, you're money well spent. And if you go against my advice and rebuild the engine, use factory Cummins rings. Not chromoly rings. Good luck and let us know what you decide.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

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Hey Guys,

I agree I am going to put in a new long block. At this point I am just trying to find who to get the motor through. I am leaning towards this longblock - tow build listed below for the 6.7. Let me know what you guys think? Thanks!

Cummins engine street/tow
5.9 $6500

6.7 $7000 Longblock carry out with core.

includes ARP head studs, street/towing industrial injection camshaft, Manton valve springs 103#, Manton pushrods 7/16, Colt cams lifters, 12v hardened rods with arp bolts and everything our stock engine comes with. install prices are the same as our stock engine.

lower egt's

improve low end boost response

strengthened valve train

head torqued tighter and more evenly

more durable 12v connecting rods with arp bolts

gain fuel mileage by 1-4 mpg dependin
 

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This is what the stock includes also:


long block carry out with core. bore/hone deck block , new pistons, rings, bearings, polish/grind crank, polish cam, valve job/surface head, new guide seals, grind valves, grind seats, 3 year 100k mile warranty.

INSTALL at our location is $1000.

install at your location would be $1500 flat rate and $500 per 500 miles additional from our location.

2010- 15 $500 additional

2015 and up $1000 additional.
 

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Looks like a nice motor for the money.
 
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