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Discussion Starter #1
I couldn't break the top bolt loose even with a 1/2" breaker bar and a cheater pipe. I'm bringing my truck to a friend's shop to put the truck on the lift to get a better angle on it. I'm planning on lifting from the frame and letting the axles hang. My question is this: Once I have all four loose and then I adjust the cam bolt, should I tighten up the cam nut and then drive around the block with the top bolts loose so that everything settles, and then tighten the tops? Another question: Should I adjust the cams while the truck is resting on the tires, or will I be okay with the axle hanging?

I'm at zero toe in and my truck pulls to the right. Stock suspension. 2015 2500 4WD Laramie MC w/ 6.7 CTD.

Driver's side.


Passenger side.


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I don’t see anything wrong with axle hanging while you adjust. After adjustment tighten the bottom one first then tighten the top ones.

I wouldn’t drive around the block.
 

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What do you think you’re going to accomplish? You can’t change caster individually by turning the cams on one side on a solid axle front end.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
He had an alignment rack where toe was in .01 degree increments, so we set the toe to 0.0. Then we decreased the caster to something more along the lines of Thuren's specs. With stock height, the least caster I could get on the driver's side was 3.7 degrees. The truck still has a slight pull to the right so I'm going to add just a bit more caster on the right side as recommended on CJC's site. The passenger side is currently 1/2 mark more than the driver's, and I've read that up to one full mark of cross-caster is okay. There is currently zero chassis lean on the front end.

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Passenger side






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The cross caster they speak of is production tolerance when welding the C to the axle housing. You can’t twist a solid axle. All your going to do is push that side forward in the wheel well.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The cross caster they speak of is production tolerance when welding the C to the axle housing. You can’t twist a solid axle. All your going to do is push that side forward in the wheel well.
"If your truck has a slight pull to one side, you can add a small amount of caster to the side it is pulling toward. This will make the truck straighten out.This is referred to as "cross caster" use it sparingly."

http://www.cjcoffroad.com/Articles.asp?ID=258

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Enlighten us all on how your going to twist the axle housing. What they’re talking about is a bandaid unless your axle isn’t centered in the wheel well to begin with. In that case it’s not cross caster. It’s remedial attention. If the alignment is truly correct it’s a tire pull and rotation is the remedy. As for your link, pay particular attention to “ notes” on caster.
 

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The above posts are correct in that you cannot add additional cross-caster to a solid front axle; the cross-caster is welded in. But the post that read "all you're going to do is push that side forward in the wheel well" is also correct and is why adjusting the cams slightly differently can make a difference in whether it drives straight. It also raises or lowers that side a little, making the truck sit level if it is not.

Did you try rotating the tires to see if they are the cause of your pull?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The original Firestone Transforce AT tires pulled slightly to the right regardless of tire position, and my OE size Cooper ST Maxx tires also do the same.

Perhaps the pull was caused by too much toe in? I do know that because of the pull, the Firestones developed a wear pattern that indicated a pull to the right, and now my Coopers have also developed a strange wear pattern. Now that I know my toe is perfect at 0.0, I'll do a tire rotation and see what happens.

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after your caster adjustment. put the truck on the ground, then tighten the upper axle mount
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I rotated the tires and now the fronts are perfectly smooth. Unfortunately there is still a slight pull to the right. I'm going to add caster to the right so that it is exactly one line more than the left.

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Does it pull slightly right if your on the left side of the road? If it pulls slightly right and your on the right side of the road theres nothing wrong with the truck, alignment or tires it's from the pitch of the road. A truck should drift slightly right over distance if on the right side of the road and slightly left if on the left side of the road.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Does it pull slightly right if your on the left side of the road? If it pulls slightly right and your on the right side of the road theres nothing wrong with the truck, alignment or tires it's from the pitch of the road. A truck should drift slightly right over distance if on the right side of the road and slightly left if on the left side of the road.
I do know that BEFORE I rotated the tires, the truck pulled to the right no matter where I was at on either a freeway or 2-lane road. I did not drive on the left side of the road this last test though. I can't believe I overlooked that during this last test. Perhaps that's why there were a few times when it felt like it wasn't pulling?

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He had an alignment rack where toe was in .01 degree increments, so we set the toe to 0.0. Then we decreased the caster to something more along the lines of Thuren's specs. With stock height, the least caster I could get on the driver's side was 3.7 degrees. The truck still has a slight pull to the right so I'm going to add just a bit more caster on the right side as recommended on CJC's site. The passenger side is currently 1/2 mark more than the driver's, and I've read that up to one full mark of cross-caster is okay. There is currently zero chassis lean on the front end.

Driver's side


Passenger side
unless I am looking at this wrong, your caster must be very low.
most, if not all trucks including mine, that i have seen, have the caster cam marks pointing to the REAR of the truck. my passenger side is just past the 1st mark to the rear, and my driver side is just a little less. I don't remember the specs, but they were within the recommended specs posted here.
my truck drives straight with no pull. I am running Duratracs
 

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Discussion Starter #16
unless I am looking at this wrong, your caster must be very low.
most, if not all trucks including mine, that i have seen, have the caster cam marks pointing to the REAR of the truck. my passenger side is just past the 1st mark to the rear, and my driver side is just a little less. I don't remember the specs, but they were within the recommended specs posted here.
my truck drives straight with no pull. I am running Duratracs
I'm currently at 3.7 left and 4.0 right.

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Prior to rotating is could have been abnormal tire wear, after rotating as long as the tires are flat wear pattern I'd check the left side of the road to see how it drifts because it's very likely that's why it "felt" like it wasnt pulling
 
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Regardless of why you want to take it off or loosen it, you need to turn the NUT not the bolt The bolt will not turn becasue of the cams and friction. Once loose from the nut you can turn the bolt to adjust.. Not sure it it may be easier to adjust with weight of wheels/axle or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Regardless of why you want to take it off or loosen it, you need to turn the NUT not the bolt The bolt will not turn becasue of the cams and friction. Once loose from the nut you can turn the bolt to adjust.. Not sure it it may be easier to adjust with weight of wheels/axle or not.
I was talking about the top bolt, not the lower cam.

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So before adjusting the cam bolt the upper bolt needs to be lose or can you make the adjustments just by loosening the cam bolt and nut?
 
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