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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have my raceME tuner in hand and will be downloading the "C" version of their software tomorrow. I will also be receiving my DPF/CAT delete pipe from the UPS Man tomorrow sometime.

Now my question is once I install the raceME and go through the initial checks can I simply take the DPF/Cat pipe off and hollow out the DPF Filter and re-install the same pipe, sensors etc like it was from the factory without a CEL?

If this is possible how hard is it to get inside of the DPF filter and remove everything?

OR is it just easier to take the pipe off, set it in the garage, tape the sensors, and install the new pipe?

Any help/words of wisdom would be great!
 

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I would put the delete pipe on since you have it coming. It is easier plus if you ever need to put it back to stock to sell the truck or if emission testing comes along you will be glad you didn't destroy it. The cost of replacing them will make you cry.
 
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^^^^^^ What they said, If nothing else for security if you need it back on. Plus when I took mine off it looked welded up pretty tight. Would imagine it would be a major pain to get to the inside of it. Just my 2 cents
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
^^^^^^ What they said, If nothing else for security if you need it back on. Plus when I took mine off it looked welded up pretty tight. Would imagine it would be a major pain to get to the inside of it. Just my 2 cents
Thanks guys. I just got the Flo-Pro delete pipe in today. I am hoping tomorrow afternoon when things get slow at work I can pull it into one of the garage bays and rip everything out.

One question though, When you took the DPF/CAT off did it come out as a single piece or were there multiple pieces? The reason why I am asking is because the delete pipe I ordered is a single piece.
 

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It will come out as a single piece. As long as you are willing to take the transmission crossmember support off. you have to have that off anyway unless you want to cut the stock one out
 

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You probably have just the dpf delete pipe. Should be about 53 or so inches long and straight. Really easy to install. I read way back somewhere that someone recommended using a ratchet strap and connect it from the lower front edge of the muffler back to the receiver. Crank it down tight and it holds the rear exhaust back and makes it much easier to separate and reinstall. Long story not so short......I used the strap and I'm glad I did. Hope it helps.
 

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Do like shawn880 said. You do not have to worry about the cross member with just a delete pipe. Unplug all the sensors and temp probes on the DPF/NOX filter. Then pull the lines off the pressure sensor by the trans that come from the DPF. The you can drop the DPF and NOX as one unit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I went out and looked at my truck vs the delete pipe I got in. My delete pipe is 33.5" long and has two flanges on it. My DPF is way shorter than that. Any suggestions on how to remedy this? I called Thoroughbred Diesel and they told me the only way to do a DPF delete is to buy a whole new system and I can't use the factory exhaust brake any more!
 

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I went out and looked at my truck vs the delete pipe I got in. My delete pipe is 33.5" long and has two flanges on it. My DPF is way shorter than that. Any suggestions on how to remedy this? I called Thoroughbred Diesel and they told me the only way to do a DPF delete is to buy a whole new system and I can't use the factory exhaust brake any more!
What brand and part number is the delete pipe you got? Sounds like they sent one for a different truck. You can get the correct pipe from other vendors on this site. I would send that one back if you can.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
What brand and part number is the delete pipe you got? Sounds like they sent one for a different truck. You can get the correct pipe from other vendors on this site. I would send that one back if you can.
It is a Flo-Pro DPF/CAT delete pipe I bought off of Performance Truck Products. (I will never buy from them again) I don't remember the number but I saw on the box it was for a 2011 C&C truck. So I ended up and found a piece of 4" SS at a local muffler shop for $40.00 So I bought it and went up the street to another DPF/CAT delete "friendly/someone who knows how to weld" muffler shop. Showed him what the issue was and how to fix it. About an hour later and another $20.00 I had a perfect delete pipe for my truck.

Tomorrow after coaching a youth softball game and doing around the house things I will tackle this project.

I however do have a few questions about the sensors and pipes connected to the DPF/CAT area:

1) What do I or how did you disconnect and remove the few steel lines that are connected? How do you block the ends so nothing gets into the system?

2) What about the sensors in the DPF/CAT area? Do I simply take them out, tape over them and zip-tie them up?
 

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From the box it sounds like the one you got was for a chassis cab model. They have a different exhaust system that also uses DEF. Glad you got it figured out.

As for the steel pressure lines. There are clamps on the end of the rubber hoses that attach to the pressure switch up by the transmission. Use a pair of pliers and squeeze them and pull the rubber lines off the module and leave them attach to the steel lines. Leave the ports on the pressure switch open, don't plug them.

As for the sensors on the DPF/NOX just leave them in the DPF/NOX and unplug the connectors on the harness and then remove it. You can wrap the ends of the plugs on the harness with electrical tape to keep the weather out of them and tie them up.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for all of the info. Hopefully this goes well and I will be up and running in no time. I will post some photos once I get outside and get things torn apart. I have also noticed in a few places where people have stated to support the tranny when pulling these parts out. Especially if I remove the cross member. Anywhere in particular I should put the jack?
 

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You only have to mess with the crossmember if you replace the down pipe. If all you are doing is the dpf delete, don't worry about it. Check out 67guzzlers thread deleting on the cheap. All you questions should be answered as far as the exhaust stuff. There are some good pics also.
 

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Being someone who deals with DC voltage and water intrusion on a regular basis I dont recommend only taping the empty harness leads after deleting. ROLLIN SMOKE DIESEL sells all the harness plugs in a set for like 40 or 50 dollars. I dont remember the exact amount but this is the best way to do it since only taping the harness will still allow condensation to form inside of the harness and cause corrosion. The plugs make a water tight seal and IF you decide to trade the truck in later on down the road you will have to put all of that garbage back on

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I am currently working on my raceME tuner now. It is updating the ECM and having all of the lights flash like a Christmas tree is a little nerve wracking!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
It will be like Christmas when it is done :thumbsup:
Done! Just over 3 hours to take the DPF and NOX filters off and install my hillbilly engineered straight pipe to the muffler. The reason why it took longer than I thought it would was my piece that I had made was 1.625" too long and of course I realized that after I had it installed and the tailpipe was against the bed.

after doing the swap I know these few things:
1.) I can sit straight up under my truck bed.
2.) NEVER will I do this again. for the few bucks and case of beer I will let someone else drop the F-Bomb and bust a few knuckles.
3.) I know the switch from steel lines that I took out with the DPF/NOX filters
still has some sort of liquid/oil? coming out of it. Does anyone know what that is or why it is doing that?

AND.... number 4.) it is officially beer drinking time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Being someone who deals with DC voltage and water intrusion on a regular basis I dont recommend only taping the empty harness leads after deleting. ROLLIN SMOKE DIESEL sells all the harness plugs in a set for like 40 or 50 dollars. I dont remember the exact amount but this is the best way to do it since only taping the harness will still allow condensation to form inside of the harness and cause corrosion. The plugs make a water tight seal and IF you decide to trade the truck in later on down the road you will have to put all of that garbage back on

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
I looked on their website but I could not find the harness plugs. Do you know where they would be located? For now I will use gorilla tape to seal everything up but I would like to get the harness plugs for a more permanent fix.
 
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