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Discussion Starter #1
So I'm getting ready to get a 3k gsk. And here is a dumb question, what exactly will I be gaining from it? Besides raising the redline/de-fueling point?
 

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Hey, not to jack a thread but I want to add another question to his...

If I have an automatic, how will my transmission know that my engine can fuel higher up? or will it still try to shift at its usual points?
 

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With a 3k kit all you're doing is raising the defueling rpm. I would go with the 4k gsk and 60 pound valve springs, you'll be happier with it. A stock automatic will shift at the same rpm unless you manually put it ain a lower gear.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the info, I've got a pretty good hook up, and the price is going to be hella cheap. Just curious, do you know what a set of 60 lb valve springs cost?
 

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I bought mine from dieselpowerproducts.com for $110 or so. Forum members get a 5% discount.
 

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So is a 4k gsk still going to be helpfull on my automatic or should I just go with the 3k?

Hmm, I think that the 4k would be the way to go, especially if I was going to be using the truck in 1st and 2nd gear. It would seem the way to go to me, more low end torque available but higher wheelspeed....

I'm planning on a kit from puredieselpower that inclued 12 60# valve springs (to play it safe) and then the 4k gsk.

Are there any mods to the water pump necessary? I have heard this needs to be done and I have heard that it doesn't. Any ideas?
 

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I didn't do anything with my waterpump and haven't had any problems. I feel that the 4k kit is the way to go. You may as well put in the extra spring while you have it apart. Also most of our 12 valve trucks are getting higher mileage so they are probably ready for valvesprings and going to a 60 pound spring is a no brainer. If you mod more in the future you won't have to go back and do things over again. Just because your truck CAN run 4k doesn't mean you have to.
 

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But i have a feeling I would use it!

Found one at $225 for everything needed. Maybe next paycheck.
 

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i have a 4k gsk and wish i would have gone with the 5k. so i would deff not go with a 3k
 

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I have another question about this procedure...

I am planning on getting all 12 valve springs and replacing them while i'm in there.

I'm not overly familiar with these trucks or really engines to much, but I know a little.
I am pretty mechanical and imagine I could pick it up really quick though.

So while I'm in there to change the valve springs it would obviously be a good time to replace my leaky valve gasket, but what about torquing the headbolts down a little bit.

I would do it right and take them out and oil them as I did it. What # would I be looking for when I torque them down? And is it a pretty straight forward and easy job to do?
 

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I think a lot of guys torque them down to 120 pounds. There is also a nice valve spring compressor I used the screws down on the springs. Take a look at your valve seals also while it's apart. Make sure you piston is at tdc when you remove the springs. The back two cylinders are hard to get to but it's not that bad to do.
 

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Cool, I will be looking into that soon.

I found out why my truck (which I thought was stock) perfoms and smokes alot.

I found the boost elbow on it, I think it has some pump mods done to it as well because she will bark them when it hits third, and i have 33's on it now.

Soon it will have gauges and a mia silencer ring. I checked the turbo today and there is no play, and every joint on my front suspension is very tight no slop at all. Its turning out to be quite the truck! Now for more power...
 
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