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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So after months of being tore down, I am finally getting everything put back together. I am very illiterate with auto stuff but am trying to get things figured out as I go. I know a lot of these questions may seem stupid but I don't want to break anything.

First off is the batteries. I tore everything down with them still connected but figured I better disconnect them to be safe. The only issue is that what I am assuming is my trailer brake cable is hooked up to the battery, is how to properly disconnect without electrocuting myself or causing a short. If I understand it correctly, the passengers side negative comes off first, then the drivers side, then disconnect the positive the same way? How will that cable hooked up change this? I also just leave the cables in place when I disconnect batteries and wrap them with shop towels. Is this a safe practice?



Next up is the rebuilt turbo. I got instructions back from G pop shop and noticed a few things.

1. It says that the oil cooler needs to be flushed after bearing failure. I got the turbo rebuilt right before it was going to give way, so is this a good step to take? Is so, how do I clean it?

2. It says that the oil feed line needs to be cleaned of all deposits. How can I clean this out. It recommends that I buy a new one but I am extremely short on money right now? Will this one do? Genuine Cummins 5284430 Diesel Engine Turbo Oil Supply Tube Line Truck | eBay

3. It also says to clean the oil return line. How is this done?

4. It says something about an engine breathing system and that the PVC valve should be replaced. I haven't seen anything like this. Are they on 12 valves?

5. It also says before connecting the oil drain line to crank the engine without firing until there is a steady stream of oil flowing through the drain port. How can I crank the engine without firing?

Last question relates to my fuel. The truck has been tore down since the end of September and I had it parked with about ¾ tank of fuel. It is pretty dry here and I also treated it with Diesel Kleen. When I am running this fuel, should I go put fresh fuel in right away or run with the stuff that it has now until it is close to dry?

Another thing I thought of is that when I start the truck, the oil pressure gauge doesn't show anything until about 2 or 3 seconds after it starts. Is this normal?
 

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Yea! you got to remove cables correctlly or 12 volts will kill you.
1. Carb cleaner spray through will was stuff out.
2. you got em off and need to be told how to clean. Spray more carb cleaner.
3. See above.
4. Ain't got one. Gasser info. There is a breather you can clean with carb cleaner.
5. Loosen injector lines, It no fire and help prime system.
no #. fuel fine. fill when desire.
last. normal
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yea! you got to remove cables correctlly or 12 volts will kill you.
1. Carb cleaner spray through will was stuff out.
2. you got em off and need to be told how to clean. Spray more carb cleaner.
3. See above.
4. Ain't got one. Gasser info. There is a breather you can clean with carb cleaner.
5. Loosen injector lines, It no fire and help prime system.
no #. fuel fine. fill when desire.
last. normal
Having been a firefighter for a number of years, I have seen electricity do bad things to people. 500 amps is way more than enough to kill a person, even though volts other stuff play into it as well. I also can't afford to be shorting anything out.

As for cleaning all that stuff out, I just spray it in there and take something to blow it out with?
 

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First off is the batteries. I tore everything down with them still connected but figured I better disconnect them to be safe. The only issue is that what I am assuming is my trailer brake cable is hooked up to the battery, is how to properly disconnect without electrocuting myself or causing a short. If I understand it correctly, the passengers side negative comes off first, then the drivers side, then disconnect the positive the same way? How will that cable hooked up change this? I also just leave the cables in place when I disconnect batteries and wrap them with shop towels. Is this a safe practice?


There's virtually no risk of getting electrocuted by a 12 volt system. Arc the posts with something metal and you'll get sparks. The main danger is any spark igniting the gases inside the battery that can sometimes start leaking out when they get old. Best way to avoid this is to disconnect both grounds first. Doesn't matter which order. Then do whatever you want, as long as the two grounds are not touching anything, everything's dead.


Next up is the rebuilt turbo. I got instructions back from G pop shop and noticed a few things.

1. It says that the oil cooler needs to be flushed after bearing failure. I got the turbo rebuilt right before it was going to give way, so is this a good step to take? Is so, how do I clean it?


I'm not real sure on this, so take it for what its worth (free advice on the internet). I'm guessing they want you to do this in case any metal got into the oil system. You don't want shavings floating around causing any more damage. Since yours didn't give way, I probably wouldn't worry about it. If you want to, I'd just remove the cooler and flush through it with water, maybe soapy water for good measure, to rinse loose any flakes.

2. It says that the oil feed line needs to be cleaned of all deposits. How can I clean this out. It recommends that I buy a new one but I am extremely short on money right now? Will this one do? Genuine Cummins 5284430 Diesel Engine Turbo Oil Supply Tube Line Truck | eBay

If you really want, you could rinse it out. It should be very easy, its a short line.

3. It also says to clean the oil return line. How is this done?


There's a line between the turbo and the base of the block. Remove it and clean if you feel like it. I'd just rinse it. You'll probably need a new one if yours is very old and brittle. You'll need a 7/8" ID line, I got mine from 7/8" High Temp Silicone Hose, 2 ft is plenty, one foot probably just a little short though I have a flipped manifold in my Ford so you might be able to do it with a foot.

4. It says something about an engine breathing system and that the PVC valve should be replaced. I haven't seen anything like this. Are they on 12 valves?

I'm unaware of any PCV valve on any 12 valve. There's certainly not one on mine.


5. It also says before connecting the oil drain line to crank the engine without firing until there is a steady stream of oil flowing through the drain port. How can I crank the engine without firing?


I would disconnect the shutoff solenoid, or pull the relay. You could loosen the injector lines, but you'll spray fuel everywhere, and its likely still primed even after sitting a few months.

Last question relates to my fuel. The truck has been tore down since the end of September and I had it parked with about ¾ tank of fuel. It is pretty dry here and I also treated it with Diesel Kleen. When I am running this fuel, should I go put fresh fuel in right away or run with the stuff that it has now until it is close to dry?

I would just run it however you want. Mine was down for 7 months and I ran the fuel in the tanks.

Another thing I thought of is that when I start the truck, the oil pressure gauge doesn't show anything until about 2 or 3 seconds after it starts. Is this normal?


I think thats pretty normal. I'd say mine is a little quicker, like 1-2 seconds, but its an aftermarket gauge and there might be a delay if you're looking at the factory gauge.
 
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