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DieselAutoPower.com
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Discussion Starter #1
First of all I'll explain the setup I've got.

23 gallon plastic fuel cell (installing in the toolbox)
That leads to a Mallory 60FI gearmotor pump.
piping to expand up to 1" into a goldenrod fuel filter/water block (10 micron)
Out to a T from that it goes to a 1/2" compression fitting for my fuel line out.
And to a adjustable pressure regulator so I can fine tune my pressure.
I'll be routing the return line back to the tank, this will help with filtering.
1/2" aluminum line to the engine.

I'm debating how I want to heat my system. I've got a section of hose I could do the fuel line inside to preheat the oil from the tank to the engine. But I'm leary about pumping ~180F fuel into a VP44. So I've also got a foot long section of pipe to make a small pipe in pipe to preheat. This will of course be easier to plumb from a coolant perspective.

On to the engine. I've built a T fitting with two check valves. This has 1/2" fittings all around. Basically if I'm only pumping diesel, the check valve only allows diesel to pump into the engine. And vise versa.

Now for the part I've got questions about. The return. I know the VP44 is cooled by the fuel. And I know that it flows a good bit of fuel through it out the return. I've got a pollack valve (fuel select valve) to direct where my fuel goes. I plan on installing a new return line from the engine back to the bed. Then install the pollack valve there. To select where the fuel returns back to.

I'd like to automate this. How long should you purge the VP44 system? I basically was thinking about a double poll switch to throw the pumps. And then setting up a delay switch to toggle the valve. Or should I just get some sort of alarm timer and control it manually?

Oh and FWIW, I plan on running 85% veg in the tank and 15% K1 or #2 to thin it a little more.
 

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If you want to do a HIH fattywagon has the lines already put together for you.

If you want to automate this get a VO controller. I am using a 4 valve setup on a 12V. I am putting a valve right before and after the liftpump. The other 2 valves are for the return. I should be able to purge in about 15 seconds and when I switch over it should take about 5 seconds or less to start running on WVO.

I put both my batteries on the passenger side where the airbox was. I used an Amsoil filter and I spliced a piece of 4 inch exhaust in the air intake tube to somewhat straighten it out so the filter is where the passenger battery was. Now I have all this space that is right across from the IP to put my racro filter and my 26 FPHE that is currently having an insulated box made for it.
 

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DieselAutoPower.com
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Discussion Starter #3
I've already got everything needed to do a full HIH setup. But I'm leary about sending that much heat to the VP44.

I'm also running two different fuel pumps. With separate feed lines all the way up to the IP itself. So the purge is a matter of how long it takes to clear the IP and injectors/block, plus the section of tubing to the pollack valve.

I've got plenty of space in the toolbox even with the tank and the BBQ tank. I just want to have enough space for my jack, 4 way, straps, and a little room for some tools.

IMHO, you'd be better served ditching some of those extra valves and putting check valves in place of them. I wish there was a way to use check valves for the return...
 

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I have an old jeep that has a manual choke. If you could locate the valve in such a way to use add a pull knob like the manual choke.

I have considered not looping the veg and getting rid of one of the valves. If I let hot veg go back to the tank it would just help it flow better in the winter.
 

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have you read the write up on frybrid
 

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DieselAutoPower.com
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Discussion Starter #7
have you read the write up on frybrid
Yes, but there's so much mis-information on the web about the subject it's hard to tell.

It hit me tonight, I'm going to do the full length hose, but install ball valves to adjust coolant flow.

From what I've read the two failures of the VP44 are related to fuel pressure (Got that covered in both fuel systems) and heat cycles. Not the heat. Fedex had issues with the VP44's on their trucks, but due to the fact they start and stop them a couple hundred times a day.

I'm also going to mix kerosene or diesel in with my WVO to thin it a little as well. I'll probably start with a 50/50 mix with low HIH flow. Then increase the HIH flow and decrease the mixture ratio.

I'm also thinking about a heat sink for the VP44 while I'm at it.
 

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The ball valve to control heat is what I am doing also. There is a guy that makes a nice 20 plate heat exchanger that you can get with an insulated box and fittings. If i did not already have one I would get his.

Klaus Old - Plantoil inventions
 

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DieselAutoPower.com
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Discussion Starter #9
Ehhhhh I'll pass on it. 20ft of hose in hose will most certainly get the fuel heated.
 
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