pulling engine, need advice

Remove the radiator core support to slow for more room. Remove engine mounts top and bottom. Unbolt tranny with a jack under it for support. These engines weigh around 1000k so be sure you have a cherry picker able to handle that weight. Make a stand from 2x4 wood. Bolt it to the block. Doesn't have to look pretty just needs to be able to hold the engine safely. Then, once loaded in transport pickup tie it in with a few ratchet straps.

They weigh more like 1600#

I'd use a 2x6 pallet.

You didn't need to pull the valve cover. Just throw a ratchet strap around the crank pulley and then up to your picker arm so you can change the angle once it comes foward to clear the pan on the cross member below and the back of the valve cover up top.

Easier to pull the tranny, but I've done it without. Just jack it up. I've only done a 47re too so yours may play out a little different.

There is no top and bottom motor mounts, just left and right.

Cummins B Series engine - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


1100 lbs is the dry weight for the Cummins ISB 5.9

Either way its still heavy at 1100 lbs. 2x4's will handle that weight.

Ratchet strap frame to frame....

For the tranny just put a jack under it and it may take two people to put it back in. One lowering or raising the jack while the other person guides the motor in


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Tranny

Leave the trans in place and held up by 4-5 good ratchet straps wrapped around the frame rails as previously suggested. Between the nv5600 and the t-case, that will add another 250-300 lbs to your lift and the t-case will make it difficult getting the whole thing out. You don't have to split the trans and case, or remove the shifter etc. this way. BE CAREFUL with the t-case shifter linkage which you may want to disconnect as a precaution. Only other issue I can think of will be stubbing the trans as the engine goes back in. Have fun and be safe.

Not trying to nitpick, but the 5600 is about 550lbs by itself. tcase is another 60-80 depending dld or dhd. Either way its over 600 for trans/tcase. 4500's are about 1/2 that weight.

ram350002 said:

Leave the trans in place and held up by 4-5 good ratchet straps wrapped around the frame rails as previously suggested. Between the nv5600 and the t-case, that will add another 250-300 lbs to your lift and the t-case will make it difficult getting the whole thing out. You don't have to split the trans and case, or remove the shifter etc. this way. BE CAREFUL with the t-case shifter linkage which you may want to disconnect as a precaution. Only other issue I can think of will be stubbing the trans as the engine goes back in. Have fun and be safe.

Click to expand...

Ratchet straps work with ease.... Use jack to position it to install.... As stated.

awesome just what I needed thank yall for all the help

When I pulled my engine I had to remove the # 5&6 rockers like you said. Also I pulled the transmission back because it is stabbed into the clutch assembly. I had the NV5600 and it's a heavy *******. I left it under the truck on a jack, but did unbolt the crossmember and let it slide back with t-case still attached. Then I could lift engine up enough to clear the motor mounts out of the brackets and start pulling it forward. The engines are VERY heavy to be VERY careful. I had a real heavy duty cheery picker and it almost tried to come up in the front a few times. I added weight to the back of it just to be safe. You have to remove the A/A, radiator, and front core support. Don't forget about engine heater cord, A/C lines, sensors, starter wires, etc etc,

Great info, I will hopefully be doing this soon.

After just being through this on my transplant, I have found that it is easier to unbolt the engine mounts from the block, then the frame mount and set them to the side, thus you do not have to pick up on the drive train to get it up and out of its frame mounts. ----remove starter prior to this or you will collide----- you will then be able to rock it side to side to let it seperate from the trans.

I always use rachet straps under the trany/tcase, as they make a good safety in case the jack slides, I can bench >250 but I dont want to test my ability in this situation....

Good luck,,, be careful, and if you paying your help in beer, make sure they pop a top after, and not during...

well I finally got some time to take the engine out and thought I should share how I did it. I was glad I pulled the #5&6 rockers. once I got the cherry picker hooked up, I took the engine mounts off and out of the way, made it easy to separate the tranny because I could move side to side. I put a couple ratchet straps under the tranny and used a jack to lift it a few inches as I lifted the engine at the same time. I also had a ratchet strap running from the crank pulley to the arm of the cherry picker, made it easy to change the angle of the engine.

I lifted the tranny and engine a few inches, then separated. once separated, I had some room to adjust the angle of the engine to clear the oil pan. overall it was not near as bad as I was thinking. my advice to anyone doing this is to make sure you have a strong enough lift. mine was rated at 3000lbs and it was comforting knowing it would handle it.
hope this helps!

Sweet deal! Glad you got it worked out!

When I did mine the ratchet to the crank pulley worked good enough I did not even have to pull the valve cover.. It touched the cowl comin out, but not too bad.

Just got started on this project myself. Glad I had come across this thread a lot of good info. Thanks for all the advice.:thumbsup:

Wish I could shop for a used engine so I could be doing this swap before racing season is here...