[Beached Whale]

Last time i was doing maintenace on my truck I decided to pull the plate just for the heck of it. I was definately impressed with the extra power and tuned the AFC to clean up the smoke. So I kept it out for good. Weird thing is, now I use 2 litres of oil every 1500km I drive. The truck used to leak anyways because my rear main seal is bad, but that was in the neighbourhood of less than a litre in 10,000km. I have been over the truck top to bottom and nothing else is leaking, so it is obviously burning it. Question is, why would pulling a plate on an engine that never burned oil with a plate that was ground completely flat now be burning a litre of oil every 750 km when nothing else has changed? I even keep my foot out of it and drive it easier now that diesel is around $5 a gallon here.

Help? I have a theory but it sounds a little rediculous and I don't want to be made fun of. What are your thoughts?

 

[zenzen_427]

your pushing your stock turbo which has a map of 35 psi (which is still pushing it) to 45 psi. My guess is your turbo is pretty well toast and in need of a rebuild, and if you can afford a 62mm

 

[Beached Whale]

That thought did cross my mind. It has seen 45 pounds more than it should, even once is more times than it should see. My clutch got cooked and I deserved that for sure, and if I cooked the turbo, then I guess I am reaping my just rewards. No denying it, totally my fualt.

Thing is, that was all 8 months ago and it never even burned oil even after that. Ever since then i've kept it under 25 because the clutch doesn't want to hold much more than that. That being said, i am no expert (obviously). Is there any way to diagnose it as the turbo for sure?

 

[dieseltech8100]

Are you sure you aren't leaking it out? How's the blowby? If your turbo seals are gone, then they are gone. PERIOD. Pull your CAC piping and look for oil. If it isn't coming from the turbo, then the oil ring may be bad.

 

[Beached Whale]

I'm sorry, I'm not sure what you mean by CAC piping......

It doesn't seem to be leaking anywhere except the rear main. Any chance it could all the sudden leak like crazy?

 

[mathews8pt]

The piping between the turbo and intercooler is what he meant. Look for oil in it...

 

[Beached Whale]

As far as blow by, I seem to remember seeing a guage for sale on the internet somewhere that you just stuck into the end of the breather tube and it measured airflow in LPM. But no one I talk to seems to have ever heard of one, nor can I remember where I found it online. Does such a thing exist or am I just a crazy person?

 

[BrainChild]

Turbo seals are toasted

time for an upgrade, don't even waste your time rebuilding that HX......

 

[liteweight]

Are you sure you aren't leaking it out? How's the blowby? If your turbo seals are gone, then they are gone. PERIOD. Pull your CAC piping and look for oil. If it isn't coming from the turbo, then the oil ring may be bad.

:agree2: If it's not leaking any more than it used to then it's burning it. Turbo or rings. If it just started consuming alot of oil, then most likely the turbo. Pull the pipe as dieseltech suggested. It'll tell you right now the condition of the turbo.

liteweight

 

[Freewheelin]

yes there is such a thing, cummins lists two different orifice tube's, and then you need a water manometer or a transducer/p gauge. your allowed 5.968 cfm for an engine that is used and under 250hp, when over 250 hp it goes up to 6.074cfm.

Hell I use about 2l of oil every 1000km. ya it has a little blowby, just cuts down on rust, and my rear main is leaking as well.

 

[ROCKYTOPCUMMINS]

Maybe I missed this somewhere already but what does oil in the CAC indicate?

 

[Freewheelin]

oil in charge air cooler. would mean that your turbo is leaking oil into the air2air piping.

 

[Beached Whale]

Well at lunch break i pulled the pipe and elbow off the turbo and to my suprise....... bone dry, clean as a whistle. Yay! I don't need to spend money on a turbo... however that would indicate the rings are shot. Not yay..... Either that or else my rear main all the sudden got blown to hell. I do have oil all over the truck to the back of the t case. Gonna pick up a set of those guages, thanks Freewheelin. You wouldn't happen to know a part number or if I just went to a Cummins dealer would they know what I was talking about?

Thanks all

 

[zenzen_427]

Your comp housing isn't a sign of a blown turbo. My vgt burns oil and is clean on the air side. I know it's the turbo too because immediately when I put that turb on it started consuming oil. I burn it through the ex side

 

[Freewheelin]

beached Whale I would suggest you just go to cummins and ask how much they would charge to check your blowby. I really dont want to know how much the kit would cost. When I worked for Pete we had a set.

 

[Freewheelin]

manometer st-1111-3
there is three different orifice though don't know which one you would need
0.302 orifice 3822566
0.354 orifice 3822567
0.406 orifice 3822568

if I remember it is 0.302 if under 250hp, if over use 0.354. then you have to have the chart to correspond the reading off the manometer to figure cfm of blowby.

 

[Beached Whale]

Your comp housing isn't a sign of a blown turbo. My vgt burns oil and is clean on the air side. I know it's the turbo too because immediately when I put that turb on it started consuming oil. I burn it through the ex side

I had never thought of that. How do you tell if it is the exhaust side that is burning the oil? When I stuck on my 4" kit the turbo was black and dirty in the exhaust side I don't know how you would ever tell if it was just diesel soot or burned oil. Is it supposed to look like that?

As far as a blowby test, I have a pretty accurate digital anonometer that also calculates airflow. we use it for setting up furnaces and HVAC runs at work for checking if all the register boots are getting as much air as code says they have to. It's a pretty good unit actually. i think i will just stick a funnel into the breather tube and tape it to the outside of the fan guard on the unit and see if I can get that to work at all. I'm kinda of a cheap fellow and I can try this for free before I pay anyone to do anything.

When you do the blow by test, do you do it on a warm or cold engine? I imagine a cold engine would blow way more air than a warm one.

 

[zenzen_427]

You just gotta know in my case haha but I am not educated on how to tell

 

[Beached Whale]

You just gotta know in my case haha but I am not educated on how to tell

For sure man, i kinda envy you right now, at least you KNOW where your oil is going....

 

[Beached Whale]

Oh, and I figure somebody is going to ask this sooner or later, so i will just say it.

Yes, I have a Pyro. I have a BHAF that is clean. I have 4 inch turbo back. I would not be so silly to pull my fuel plate without all three of these items looked after. I have done many stupid things in my time, like continually pucsh a stock turbo to 45 PSI, but i know better than that. The hottest I EVER saw the truck was 1250 pre turbo and that was for a couple seconds max. And that was with a #0 plate.

The clutch only holds 25 ish PSI now and even with no plate I can only manage a little over 1000 dregrees on a steep steep hill at highway speeds.