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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
PSI's Build Log & Picture Thread


Another busy winter has come to an end, and I'm finally ready to start building my truck up. The goal for the first stage of the truck is to get all of the supporting mods completed, followed by some EFILive tuning to waken it up. I have no intentions for a high-HP monster...yet.

I will be updating this thread with tons of pictures, and details of the build's progress. I'm mainly doing this for my own personal documentation, but also to gain insight from the more experienced. Don't hesitate to add your comments, I always like to hear what people have to say about my work.

The main modifications I'll be doing over the next couple months (not in any particular order):

-Southbend Dual-Disk 3600-GK
-FASS 150 w/ modified fuel canister
-EGT, FP, Rail, Boost Autometer Factory-Match Gauges
-2nd Gen. Manifold
-Borg Warner 63/68/14
-Custom Airbox w/ Amsoil Nanofiber
-Coolant Bypass
-EFILive

I'll be performing some minor cosmetic modifications as well, those will be added as they happen.

I looked high and low for a truck like this for a good part of a year. I wanted an '06 or '07 with the 5.9, reasonable KMs, no aftermarket, 4x4, G56 and a clean body. I finally found one in the next province over, and flew out and bought it after giving it a basic mechanical inspection. As soon as I got back into town with the truck, it was detailed and tinted. I picked up an MBRP straight-pipe kit from a friend, and threw that on just to tie me over.



The straight pipe got old pretty quick, so after some research, I picked up a 30" FTE Resonator. It made a world of difference. It's still loud, but there is absolutely no drone, and it is super quiet in the cab during normal/highway driving. I also threw an HID kit in, but those will soon be swapped out for a projector retrofit.

More to come!

-Kyle
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I got sick of the black upper bumper cover, so I decided to get one paint matched. It definitely improved the looks of the truck, in my opinion.

The old:


Bumper after paint:


The new:


Much better!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Clutch time! I decided to go with the Southbend 3600-GK, as I'm aiming for ~500hp. I do plan on going with an aftermarket turbo at some point, and possibly some nozzles. Doing that will easily bring me up into the ~600hp range, so this clutch is perfect.

From what I understand, Southbend has done quite a bit of work getting this to be a durable clutch, with stock-like engagement and pedal movement. I'm not really too concerned about the extra noise, simply because I know that the POS dual-mass flywheel is gone, and no longer a ticking time bomb ready to chop off my legs!

Anyhow, the installation begins:



I got the truck up as high as possible. Having access to a fully equipped HD shop is pretty nice! 12 ton jacks allowed me to lift the axles up 28" from the ground, giving me ~33" from the ground to the doors. It proved to be plenty of room to slide the transmission out while on top of my massive trans-jack.

After messing around with a seized bolt on the front driveshaft for an hour, I ended up welding a nut onto it and was able to pull it out. A trip to the stealership for a $13.00 bolt and we were back on our way. :banghead: An hour wasted trying to get the bolt out with everything under the sun. Luckily, everything else went smoothly, and we were able to get the trans dropped with no hiccups.



After the trans was dropped, we realized the rear main had to be replaced. I was hoping that it was still intact, as I was hoping to skip the hassle of getting a new one in properly. At 3:15pm, I hauled over to the Cummins Dealership to pick up parts. Made it there at 3:50pm... I'm glad the staff there is very friendly and helpful, they had no problem staying an extra few minutes for me.



Pulled the old seal then got everything cleaned up in there, inspected the flywheel flange and found no damage. No need to sleeve! Woohoo! Drove in the new seal, then started on the flywheel.



It's nice to see a shiney, single piece flywheel in there! No more dual-mass BS!



I cleaned up the bellhousing and input shaft as best as I could. Holy crap was it dirty! Clutch dust, dirt, mud and PEBBLES! I was not pleased to find a bunch of pebbles in there, but I guess that's what happens when the roads are covered in salt/sand for 50% of the year. I used 4 bottles of brake cleaner and some elbow grease to get it that clean.

That's about as far as we got tonight, we'll (hopefully) be finishing up the rest tomorrow morning and have her rolling again.

-Kyle
 

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3 footin' through life
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Lookin good. Keep up the good work.

Any reason you want to stay with the 351 since you are doing a 2nd gen manifold?
 

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Nice truck. Can't wait to see how she turns out:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Lookin good. Keep up the good work.

Any reason you want to stay with the 351 since you are doing a 2nd gen manifold?
I'd like to see how much power I can pull out of the HE351 and stock injector combination. Not only that, when I do decide to upgrade the turbo, the 2nd gen. configuration will make it easier to swap.

Clutch is in and torqued up, just gotta stab the transmission, bolt everything back up, and throw in the upgraded hydraulics. I'll post pics later.

-Kyle
 

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3 footin' through life
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Alright, I get the logic. You gonna get a spring gate for it?

Also, I like the shop!
 

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Nice work. Looking forward to the projector retrofit.
 

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You had issue with the pinion bolts on the front driveshaft? I tried once for about 5 minutes. Now I normally leave those on and ziptie the shaft to the frame. When I have front driveshaft issues somebody else can deal with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Out with the old:



In with the new:



Got to the shop pretty early sunday morning, finished cleaning the bellhousing and input shaft, greased it and put it together. Stabbed her in there, bolted up and started putting it all back together. I'm pretty sure with the equipment I have, and a knowledgeable friend, we could have the tranny out in under 2 hours.



So... I stripped one of those stupid external torx bolts holding the shifter on. I added a quart of ATF+4 before I put it on, but used only a small amount of gasket maker because I knew I'd have it off to switch to MTF. After going for a drive to warm the fluid up, I tried to take it off to start adding MTF and make a proper gasket, just to find it stripped. Guess that's what happens when you use a 12-point 10mm(?) socket instead of an actual external torx socket.

Luckily, there's a fill port located on the back, and I was able to pump though there.



I poured one quart MTF through the tranny in attempt to flush out the remaining ATF+4, but there was still quite a bit in there. So I filled er' up with 7 quarts, and I'll be draining 3.5 after a few hundred KM. If I can source anything less than a pale of Mobil Delvac 50, I'll be adding 3.5qts of that instead of Amsoil MTF.


edit: This did not hold, do not use zip ties. The boot popped off from the base and was leaking within a couple hundred miles. Use hose clamps.

My original orange shift boot had a very small hole that I probably could have repaired, but I decided to replace it anyways. Unfortunately, I forgot to get some pipe clamps, so I had to use some heavy duty zip ties. I'll be replacing them when I finish the fluids.

Alright, I get the logic. You gonna get a spring gate for it?

Also, I like the shop!
Thanks man, I'm lucky to have access to a fully equipped shop. Our new one is even bigger, and it has a pit!

I'm not sure if I'll be using a spring gate. I'll have to head over to the 2nd Gen. forums and see what kind of results they're having with it. I know they've been playing with our old HE351s for a while LOL.

You had issue with the pinion bolts on the front driveshaft? I tried once for about 5 minutes. Now I normally leave those on and ziptie the shaft to the frame. When I have front driveshaft issues somebody else can deal with it.
Yeah, just because they were torx headed. I sprayed them with penetrator the night before and that helped a little bit. Three of them came out easily, but one of them required enough force to start to strip the shallow torx hole.

Hmmm, zipping' it to the frame isn't a bad idea. I think I'll be doing that next time.

-Kyle
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Brought over from the previous page:

Out with the old:



In with the new:



Got to the shop pretty early sunday morning, finished cleaning the bellhousing and input shaft, greased it and put it together. Stabbed her in there, bolted up and started putting it all back together. I'm pretty sure with the equipment I have, and a knowledgeable friend, we could have the tranny out in under 2 hours.



So... I stripped one of those stupid external torx bolts holding the shifter on. I added a quart of ATF+4 before I put it on, but used only a small amount of gasket maker because I knew I'd have it off to switch to MTF. After going for a drive to warm the fluid up, I tried to take it off to start adding MTF and make a proper gasket, just to find it stripped. Guess that's what happens when you use a 12-point 10mm(?) socket instead of an actual external torx socket.

Luckily, there's a fill port located on the back, and I was able to pump though there.



I poured one quart MTF through the tranny in attempt to flush out the remaining ATF+4, but there was still quite a bit in there. So I filled er' up with 7 quarts, and I'll be draining 3.5 after a few hundred KM. If I can source anything less than a pale of Mobil Delvac 50, I'll be adding 3.5qts of that instead of Amsoil MTF.



My original orange shift boot had a very small hole that I probably could have repaired, but I decided to replace it anyways. Unfortunately, I forgot to get some pipe clamps, so I had to use some heavy duty zip ties. I'll be replacing them when I finish the fluids.



Thanks man, I'm lucky to have access to a fully equipped shop. Our new one is even bigger, and it has a pit!

I'm not sure if I'll be using a spring gate. I'll have to head over to the 2nd Gen. forums and see what kind of results they're having with it. I know they've been playing with our old HE351s for a while LOL.



Yeah, just because they were torx headed. I sprayed them with penetrator the night before and that helped a little bit. Three of them came out easily, but one of them required enough force to start to strip the shallow torx hole.

Hmmm, zipping' it to the frame isn't a bad idea. I think I'll be doing that next time.

-Kyle

Oh, I forgot to talk about the feel of the new clutch...

It feels totally different. Even with the new hydraulics, the pedal seems to feel almost like stock, but the engagement is at a totally different point in the pedal. Instead of the stock engagement, where it was a gradual grab throughout the first 2/3rds of the pedal stroke, with this it seems that the last 1/4th before you let off the clutch is where all the engagement happens.

The sound is not bad at all. It's actually quite a bit less than I was expecting. My exhaust covers up most of the sound. You can't hear it in the cab though.

For anyone who has a SB-DD, is my engagement normal?
 

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Just a tip for thoughs shaft torx bolts just put a little heat on flang by bolt and they come out much better they have locktite on them.
 

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Sounds normal on the feel of your clutch. I hated it at first and thought something was wrong but its just somethin you gotta get used to. You can adjust where the pedal is when it grabs though. I haven't touched mine in a year but its on the pedal somewhere. If you want to adjust it just look around the pedal in the cab and you should see it.


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Subscribed.. Nice truck PSI. What's your goal hp expectation out of the project?


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Sounds normal on the feel of your clutch. I hated it at first and thought something was wrong but its just somethin you gotta get used to. You can adjust where the pedal is when it grabs though. I haven't touched mine in a year but its on the pedal somewhere. If you want to adjust it just look around the pedal in the cab and you should see it.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
I've heard it would feel pretty different compared to the stock clutch, but the pedal pressure feels lighter than stock

Subscribed.. Nice truck PSI. What's your goal hp expectation out of the project?


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Thanks man, it's my baby! I'm hoping to be just under 500hp with water/meth injection.
 

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I'm not sure if I'll be using a spring gate. I'll have to head over to the 2nd Gen. forums and see what kind of results they're having with it. I know they've been playing with our old HE351s for a while LOL.
Using a spring gate is basically the only way to go without fabbing up your own bracket for the actuator. When you mount the 351 I've read that the clocking is such that using the stock setup isn't possible... Somebody else care to chime in?

Since you're goal is under 500hp I'd definitely say staying with the 351 makes since. If it ever gets worn you'd be a great candidate for a Gt37.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Using a spring gate is basically the only way to go without fabbing up your own bracket for the actuator. When you mount the 351 I've read that the clocking is such that using the stock setup isn't possible... Somebody else care to chime in?

Since you're goal is under 500hp I'd definitely say staying with the 351 makes since. If it ever gets worn you'd be a great candidate for a Gt37.
I was under the assumption that the only reason you would need to make an actuator bracket would be if you clocked the compressor housing. As far as I know, the only reason to clock the turbo is to have a shorter hot pipe to the intercooler. Fabbing up either an actuator bracket or piping to avoid clocking the turbo is not an issue. I'd like to avoid using a spring, I'd rather leave my wastegate electronically controlled for tuning purposes.

I kinda have a standing challenge with a buddy, who is a Ford guy, of who can run a better time on stock turbo and injectors... So once I smoke him, I may start upgrading LOL.

-Kyle
 

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K I hadn't heard about not clocking for a 2nd gen swap. I guess that works. FYI, the oil feed and drain will no longer be straight vertical. Have you seen this done? So you're just gonna fab a charge pipe to fit?

What kinda ford? Assuming its an auto? He'll win... LOL. Seriously though you'd have to be a damn good driver. If it was a dmax I'd guarantee he'd win. Those buggers are quick on stock turbos.

About times... Stock turbo maxed out with EFI I'd bet you could pull off a 13.7 on a good day. 13.6 would be a great day. If you haven't yet check out this thread. Theres a growing crowd of manual guys that like to drag race. Join the club and post up some times. For reference my best time on stock turbo was 14.3x at 96ish. And that was with a 1.8 60'. But that was only on 420hp/1000tq because it was a box revo tune. EFI can get you to 550+ on stock sticks with supporting fuel supply.
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/cummins-racing/199842-hand-shaker-1-4-1-8-mile-times-here-39.html
 
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