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Discussion Starter #1
This will be my build and restore thread for my 91 D250 non intercooled automatic. I bought this truck in April 2013 from a nice old lady, and that makes me the third owner. She and her husband owned it since 1996 and used it to pull there 25 ft bumper pull camp trailer during the summer and parked it in the garage during the winter most years. In 2006 they had a new cab and box installed. From 2006 to the summer of 2011 they put almost 12,000 dollars worth of repairs and replacements into the truck, and kept all of the receipts. They were planning on keeping the truck, but in late 2011 her husband passed away and she had no further use for the truck. The interior is in great shape and there was only some minor rust under one of the fender flares on the box. The frame has some rust, but nothing that threatens the structure or strength of the frame. I'm focusing on the body work first and then I will dig into upgrading the engine and drivetrain. This is a budget build as my wife is pregnant and is due next month.

Now for the pictures.

The day I picked it up:




On the way home:


The interior:


The engine bay:


First thing I did on my next days off was pull the camper shell:


I then pulled the side steps, fender flares, and molding off, but can't seem to find my pictures I took for that. When I pulled the molding off it pulled some of the paint with it. Who ever painted the truck when they installed the new cab, and box didn't do the greatest job.

I wasn't a huge fan of the all red interior, so I took the headliner, along with all the trim off and junked it since most of it was cracked. I'm not going to re-install a new headliner as I like the silver metal roof. I then took the door panels, and kick panels out of the truck and tore them apart and painted them silver.




I then re-installed the red carpet on the door panels.


Door panel installed after the new paint.


I've never been a huge fan of wood grain so that was the next thing to go.

Before:


After:


Now comes the good part. Before my wife and I started our budget she let me buy wheels and tires. They are 20x9 XD Hoss with a +18 offset, and the rubber is 33x12.5r20 Toyo MT Open Country's. I bought them knowing I wouldn't be able to turn once they were on but I was surprised once I installed them. Even with the saggy front springs I had very minimal rubbing and after a tiny bit of trimming I can turn from lock to lock without any rubbing unless I hit a good size bump while turning.

Here's a pic before I installed them.


Drivers side. My drivers side coil spring is 1 1/2 more compressed than the passenger side so I will build some cheap coil spacers for now and hopefully get some new coils down the road.



Passenger side.


A pic from the back to show how wide the tires are.


And a final pic with the hub caps. I still haven't decided whether I like them or not.


I welcome any comments and I will be looking for suggestions to help me keep this build low budget and cover anything I may over look. I know that by putting fat tires on it that I am ruining a good truck according to some, but I like the way it looks. :party018:
 

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I love the direction of your build! I like the wheel choice but I would have went A/T instead of M/T but hey its not my truck either! Keep up the good work man!!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I would have went with an AT also but the roads where I live have lots of clay and not so much gravel and so when they get wet they are slick as can be. I wanted to get as much traction as possible but still just have a 2wd for the stance.


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Discussion Starter #4
So I'm looking for some input from guys that know more about these trucks than I do. I have a "mystery box" next to my battery and I have no idea what it is. I disconnected the power and ground wires that run to it since I have no idea what it does. Here are some pics of it.



Here is where its wired into the fuel system.


Where it is plumbed into the air intake
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Some guys on dieseltruckresource forum think its a hydrogen snake oil generator. You put distilled water in it and then an electric current gets sent thru the water and makes hydrogen that supposedly helps fuel economy. I've never heard of them so I'm just going to disconnect it.


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That's what it looks like, I met a guy last ear that builds these things and swears by them but it sounds like a load of poop to me. He said he has built them for everything from lawnmowers to 18 wheelers.


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It looks good so far. I did not think I would like the redone door panels. Off the truck they looked wrong. On the truck they look great! You obviously had a vision that worked well.

The one thing to do now is to sandblast or paint the frame with something like chassis saver, por-15 or other rust converting paint after wire brushing it. It would be a shame not to stabilize the frame when it is this easy.

When I redid my 1975 plow truck I sandblasted the frame. That alone took me about a week. Hiring it out may make sense as it is not that expensive and the sandblasting places have a huge air compressor. I took everything off the frame except for the frame and axles. Lift up a 3/4 ton frame and you will know why I left them on. The bad part was the job took me all summer. The good news is the frame was protected with paint and should not go bad anytime soon. The bad news was I found a lot of pitting and thinning I did not notice before the sandblasting. It is always best to know what you really have even if that means it needs some reinforcements.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It looks good so far. I did not think I would like the redone door panels. Off the truck they looked wrong. On the truck they look great! You obviously had a vision that worked well.

The one thing to do now is to sandblast or paint the frame with something like chassis saver, por-15 or other rust converting paint after wire brushing it. It would be a shame not to stabilize the frame when it is this easy.

When I redid my 1975 plow truck I sandblasted the frame. That alone took me about a week. Hiring it out may make sense as it is not that expensive and the sandblasting places have a huge air compressor. I took everything off the frame except for the frame and axles. Lift up a 3/4 ton frame and you will know why I left them on. The bad part was the job took me all summer. The good news is the frame was protected with paint and should not go bad anytime soon. The bad news was I found a lot of pitting and thinning I did not notice before the sandblasting. It is always best to know what you really have even if that means it needs some reinforcements.
I'm in the process of removing the spray on bed liner the PO had put on the frame. All it has done is hold the water next to the frame and speed up the rusting. Once I'm done with that I will sand blast it and then brush on some POR-15. I need to rebuild one of the frame cross-members as it is rusted thru where it mounts to the frame, but other than that things seem to be in pretty good shape.


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If you put on por-15 after sandblasting be sure to let the frame flash rust overnight. Por-15 does not like sitting on clean metal. Also, keep it out of the sun. I did some sandblasting and then applied por-15. The por-15 turned to chalk and let go sitting in the sun. Once the frame is sandblasted any quality topcoat will work to paint it. You could even use a basecoat clearcoat on the frame. I used a SEM product on my trucks frame. I am not sure how it holds up on the road in salt but I only have one small area I need to redo after my plow truck has been sitting on the lawn for 10 years. Apparently I missed one area when painting under the frame.

If you look at www.car-part.com you can probably find a junkyard selling just a crossmember. Look at "frame" and go from there. Personally, I would only look in the south where you can get a still mostly (maybe all) black crossmember. Shipping should not be more than $30 as these crossmembers are not that big or heavy.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Finally got some time to work on my truck some more. I got all the bed liner off the back half of the frame, and wire brushed all the extra chunks of rust off. I also strait piped the truck. Its crazy how good these trucks sound. I got some practice welding. I filled the holes in the front fenders where the badges were.



I will drop the fuel tank this weekend if I get a chance and clean out behind it and then coat the frame with some POR-15.

Has anyone ever taken the overload springs out from under these trucks? I was just wondering how hard it is to do. I just want to try and soften up the ride a little bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Thanks everyone for all the compliments and suggestions. So I was able to get the frame clean and painted this weekend. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.

Frame wire brushed


Frame painted with POR-15



Then today I ran my wiring back to the back of the truck, and then I got a friend to help me set the bed on and line it up. I'm pretty happy with how the truck looks now. I may still raise the front a little and drop the back a little to level it.

 

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Now that looks pretty sweet right there! What's in store for it under the hood?
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Now that looks pretty sweet right there! What's in store for it under the hood?
I'm thinking of going with a 3rd gen turbo (HE351cw I believe), a 4 inch exhaust, build a 4 inch intake, and put a BHAF on it, build a 3 inch crossover intake, do all the free fuel mods, either grind the fuel pin, or buy one, put 3200 gov spring in, and I'm thinking of putting either a 47rh or a nv4500 in it. Its just got the 3 speed auto now and I'm not the biggest fan of it. It does have 3.07 gears in the rear-end so it has no problem going down the road.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So I got chance to work on my truck some more this weekend. I started by fixing some of the cracks in my grill with a soldering iron. Then I took some black Plasit-dip and sprayed my tailgate cover to see if I liked it. When I Plasti-dip the rest of the truck I think I'll take whatever color I use and spray the Dodge lettering so you can see it better.



I also got a chance to fix the one rust spot I had on my rear fender. I went about it cheaply and with what I had around the shop. I cut the rust out, measured the hole, cut some sheet metal I had on hand to fit, made sure I had about 1/16 of an inch gap between the patch and the fender and welded it into place. When I cut the rusted part out I discovered a dent just above the wheel well that had been filled with about a 1/4 inch of bondo so I cleaned that out and will fill it back in when I do all my other bondo work. If it gives me trouble in the future I will buy a replacement panel, but for now I'm happy with just being cheap.

Rust cut out


Panel tacked in place


Patch welded in and bondo cleaned out of dent
 

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pics on that hydrogen? my buddies grandfather ran one on his 3rd gen and got 26 mpg. never seen one set up on a first gen


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Discussion Starter #19
pics on that hydrogen? my buddies grandfather ran one on his 3rd gen and got 26 mpg. never seen one set up on a first gen
If you look at post #4 of the thread I have a couple pictures of it. I would post them again but I don't have access to them at the moment.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Project "Old Man No More"

So did some more work on my truck. My brother was up from Utah so he helped me do some body work. The big dent on my rear fender was to big to just fill with bondo so we took some screws and popped it out some before we filled it.<br />
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Screws in the fender.<br />
<a href="http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/frostyman133/media/Screwsinfender_zpsdc010f4d.jpg.html" target="_blank">
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Bondo in place.<br />
<a href="http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/frostyman133/media/Bondo_zpsc13e9ee0.jpg.html" target="_blank">
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While waiting for the bondo to cure I Plastidipped my grill black and got some pictures of it on the truck.<br />
<a href="http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/frostyman133/media/Blackgrill_zps592abd77.jpg.html" target="_blank">
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I have some more sanding to do and then I'll throw some primer over the spots I fixed just to cover them until I'm able to get the Plastidip to paint the truck.
 
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