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Discussion Starter #1
So basically on a moderate HP truck, manual that goes and daily drives can you run non gated compounds and not have any issues. My thought is that like a non gated single boost is controlled by the right foot or am I completely off base on that?
 

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Mike @ Dude's Diesel Performance
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So basically on a moderate HP truck, manual that goes and daily drives can you run non gated compounds and not have any issues. My thought is that like a non gated single boost is controlled by the right foot or am I completely off base on that?
I would agree - depending on duel setup I wouldn’t be afraid to do it.

Hopefully someone who has non gated setup will chime in
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If I went non gated I would most likely run 63/68/.91 t4 and a s475 over top
 

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For a single what are the pros and cons for gated vs non gated? Specifically a larger single such as a sxe s369, would you run that gated or non gated?
 

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If I went non gated I would most likely run 63/68/.91 t4 and a s475 over top
I'm auto not manual but I am currently running SXE 63/68/.91 over Bullseye billet 76/96/1.32 with no gates and stock fuel. It runs good but I plan to step the secondary up to a 73 on the turbine side and am trying to get some feedback from Firepunk (does my tuning) as to whether I should stick with a .91 or step up to 1.0. The key is to size everything properly, not to much flow or to little. With my current setup up I feel that I am already driving the secondary to much and not enough on the primary. I have 150% injectors to put in at some point and don't want grenade the secondary.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm auto not manual but I am currently running SXE 63/68/.91 over Bullseye billet 76/96/1.32 with no gates and stock fuel. It runs good but I plan to step the secondary up to a 73 on the turbine side and am trying to get some feedback from Firepunk (does my tuning) as to whether I should stick with a .91 or step up to 1.0. The key is to size everything properly, not to much flow or to little. With my current setup up I feel that I am already driving the secondary to much and not enough on the primary. I have 150% injectors to put in at some point and don't want grenade the secondary.
See I would be running around 50-75 HP injectors and some custom tuning, nothing crazy and don't drive my truck balls to the wall. My HP goal would be around 600-700 ish on a max effort dyno tune type thing. Ive always heard non gated compounds can get out of control pretty quick on the boost side but I imagine that's more for high HP always pushing the limits type of trucks and mine just wont be that way. Only reason I would go the non gated route would be to put a T4 non gated on now as a mod and then be able to toss a s475(1.32) on top later.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
For a single what are the pros and cons for gated vs non gated? Specifically a larger single such as a sxe s369, would you run that gated or non gated?
It depends on how you look at it, benefit of non gated would be the ability to run a t4 housing which drops drive pressure and lowers temps a bit in most cases. Boost is completely controlled by your right foot and how much fuel you have to drive the turbo. A t3 gated its very quick to light and the boost is controlled by the gate obviously. Temps are usually higher with a t3 as a single compared to a t4. Its all about pros vs cons for you specific desires and plans for the truck, theres trade offs to running a t4 but there are also benefits. Me personally I don't mind the slightly slower spool of a t4 doesn't really bother me as I am a manual truck and can wine my rpms out if I want to keep on top of the charger
 

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Most guys run e gates these days. I plan to add a s480 to my current 64.5/73/91 in the coming months.
 

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You can surely run non gated. Its what I run and no issues what so ever. My previous setup was a 363/74/.91 over a 480/96/1.32 with 250% overs making 110-120psi of boost. Drive was also above 100psi and never really cared because it made 1300-1390hp on every dyno it went on.

I now have a 366/74/1.1 over a 485/96/1.32 and while on the engine dyno I stopped at 1550hp because of the stock 5.9 block and unfortunately on the first pass down the 1/8 it decided to send the cylinder wall on #6 out to lunch. So now a sleeved 6.7 block down to 5.9 factory piston is in the works.

The reason I went to a 1.1 housing on the 66 this time is because I was going to hit it with a .080 jet on the dyno. But I never made it that far lol

Having a gated setup is mostly used for higher rpm, where you need to relieve excess exhaust gasses from running a smaller turbine housing/turbine wheel or if you are trying to run to small of an injector. To small of an injector nozzle while running more duration causes higher drive. Larger injector nozzles uses a shorter duration more precisely during the crank rotation which keeps drive in check.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So basically since Im not wanting to and never will spin past 3500-4k and not building for big HP numbers I should be perfectly fine to run non gated, with drive most likely close to 1:1. I would be very surprised if my truck sees more than 70 lbs more than a couple times ever in its life lol Like I said Im looking to tow and daily drive the truck.
 

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You will be fine. I wouldnt be worried at all. Plus running non gated keeps you from having to try and play with the gate settings where you can go backwards real quick.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Appreciate the input guys, most likely will go that route then. Allows me to have fun and put a turbo on then in the future toss something over top.
Thoughts on doing a 63/68/.91 box turbo and then putting a s475/1.32 later? 50-75 HP for fuel upgrades, possibly a Fleece CP3K, and HP tuning
 

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Occassionally, I run across a thread in which I understand almost zero. This is one of those times. That's how I learn. In theory.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well which parts? Maybe we can shed some light on some terms and whatnot
 

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Appreciate the input guys, most likely will go that route then. Allows me to have fun and put a turbo on then in the future toss something over top.
Thoughts on doing a 63/68/.91 box turbo and then putting a s475/1.32 later? 50-75 HP for fuel upgrades, possibly a Fleece CP3K, and HP tuning
Why not just run a 351/475 setup? 63/68/91 and 475 is overkill for what you want to do with the truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Well overkill maybe but I’ll only be able to make as much boost as my fuel will alow and a 63/68 will still spool nice and quick. I could downsize slightly on the s400 to a s472 I suppose but the 475 flows a good amount more air for minimal weight.
Main reason is I like to tinker around and would like to toss a turbo on possibly this summer but don’t want to drop the cash for compounds just yet. When I do the turbo upgrade I’ll be doing other mods at the same time like injectors, valve springs and pushrods.
 

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Well overkill maybe but I’ll only be able to make as much boost as my fuel will alow and a 63/68 will still spool nice and quick. I could downsize slightly on the s400 to a s472 I suppose but the 475 flows a good amount more air for minimal weight.
Main reason is I like to tinker around and would like to toss a turbo on possibly this summer but don’t want to drop the cash for compounds just yet. When I do the turbo upgrade I’ll be doing other mods at the same time like injectors, valve springs and pushrods.
If you went the stocker S475 route, the money you were gonna spend on a new turbo could be used for your compound piping kit. You'll still be able to hit your goal, you won't lose the fast spool of the stock turbo, which is nice in a manual and you'll have your compound setup sooner.
Just a thought for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
True... I’ve thought about pulling the stocker and just rebuilding it and putting it back with either a BD or Steed Speed manifold. I’ve installed a 63/68/.91 on a buddies truck with a 2nd gen mani and honestly it lit right at 1600 rpms, his truck was an auto but it felt very similar to stock as to when she would light it just hit harder when it took off. That was with stock injectors when we put 100s in it it would light slightly sooner but not really noticeable it just made more boost than it did on stock fuel

I don’t know more thinking to do I guess lol
 

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Mike @ Dude's Diesel Performance
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63/68.91 borg sxe I ran on my 5.9- like you mentioned I didn’t think lag was bad and once lit it was like a firework.

I would say if you don’t stay with stock as recommended before then go with a borg SXE model turbo as they flow extremely well with smaller wheel sizes.

With some fuel and tuning you should make 600+ with that single charger as is without compounds
 

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Only reason I mentioned it is you stated you were only going to add roughly 30% overs and want to use the truck to tow and just daily it, hard to beat a 351/475 for that.....
 
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