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I changed the fuel filter myself for the first time in 9 years(always had it done by dealer) on my 98 2500 5.9 12 valve. All went fine till prime time. I guess prime procedure I used was not rite, took a while to purge the air out, Can someone tell me the proper or best procedure to bleed the air out of the system??
 

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hmmm. on my 97 on top of the fuel filter housing next to the nut u take loose to get the filter canister off there is a 10mm or 8 mm nut that u loosen. then u use the prime pump to get all the air out. just keep pumping till u see fuel come out of it then tighten the nut bk down. thats the way i always do it.
 

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Prime pump? Mine is a 98 I can't find anything that looks like a manual pumping element in the system, where is it located/
 

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First of all, I don't think you need to prime it. Use the starter. Crank for 30 seconds, let it cool for two minutes. Repeat a few times. It will probably start and run rough for a few seconds.

The push button is on the lift pump which is below the fuel filter. It takes a lot of pushes to fill the fuel filter.
 

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dunno about the 98's but the 97 i have has a prime pump below the fuel filter. u just pump it with your had. about half way down the driverside of the engine. under the filter. this just saves on the starter.
 
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my 99 does not have that manual primer on it
 

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my 99 does not have that manual primer on it
Correct, your 99 has an electric lift pump. You just bump the starter and the pump will run and prime the system. The 12v has a mechanical lift pump and a primer bulb to manually prime the system. Interestingly, your electric lift pump is installed in the same spot as the mechanical lift pump; the bracket covers the hole in the block where the mechanical pump arm went over to a cam lobe. If you relocate the electric lift pump, you have to leave the bracket there..
 

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sorry i didnt know it didnt have that pump.
 

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First of all, I don't think you need to prime it. Use the starter. Crank for 30 seconds, let it cool for two minutes. Repeat a few times. It will probably start and run rough for a few seconds.quote]

Yes this method will work but it's not good practice, especially if you do it every time you change your filter. It's extremely hard on the IP and starting motor. As Dad stated, just bump your starter. LP pumps for a bout 15 or 20 seconds and pushes fuel through filter canister up to IP. Sometimes I have had to crack the IP intake banjo bolt (the one w/ the shrader valve) and then bump the starter, then tighten the banjo fitting after the presence of fuel. Then it starts right up, all without hurting the IP or starter. Just my experience.
 
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I think this went a couple of different directions here. I may be the only one confused. To be certain..

1) The 1997, 12v engine has mechanical lift pump and should be primed by pumping the bulb on the lift pump, which is located below and to the right of the filter canister.

2) The 1999, 24v engine has an electric lift pump and can be primed by bumping the starter and letting the lift pump run.

The change was made from mechanical to electric lift pump with the introduction of the 24v engine in model year 1998.5.
 

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Looks like you brought up a good observation. I didn't realize there was the p-pump system put into play in this thread. For anybody who read my post, I was definitely referring to the 98 1/2 to 2002 24 valve VP44 system. If anyone is still confused in this thread, and if you own a VP44, please don't crank and crank on the starter untill it starts up.
 

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then what do u do for the vp44 trucks...i coming time to change mine so...
 

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then what do u do for the vp44 trucks...i coming time to change mine so...
Just read Dad98.5's post #7. He explains it short and sweet. I also mention my experiences with my own truck on post #9
 

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then what do u do for the vp44 trucks...i coming time to change mine so...
After you change the filter, turn the key to the on position, bump the starter and leave the truck in the on position. This will cause the lift pump to run for 30 seconds or so. Repeat 3-4 times and the lift pump will refill the canister and prime the system. Occasionally, you may have to crack an injector and crank the motor a few times to get the rest of the air bled out of the system.
 

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Perfectly stated!!
 

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Heck with pumping the 12 valve primer a hundred times or prefilling the filter with fuel and possibly adding contaminates to the clean side of the filter.
I open the bleed screw on top of the filter and use an air blow gun wrapped in a rag to pressurize the fuel tank though the fill hole. Takes about 15 seconds to fill the filter and purge all the air.
 

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Heck with pumping the 12 valve primer a hundred times or prefilling the filter with fuel and possibly adding contaminates to the clean side of the filter.
I open the bleed screw on top of the filter and use an air blow gun wrapped in a rag to pressurize the fuel tank though the fill hole. Takes about 15 seconds to fill the filter and purge all the air.
Good idea. I've always not liked the idea of filling the canister and trying to get it in there without contaminating it. Not a big issue with the FASS lift pump. Sounds like this approach will cover it for the 12v.

Experience = something you have right after you need it..:thumbsup
 

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I dont think you need to bump the starter...when you turn the key to on, not start, the lift pump should run, i know mine does...when i changed my filter, it had fuel in it, so i just put the new filter in, and then turned the key to on, let the pump run, and then started...and it started without even a hiccup or sputter...
 

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Gas

I have had some trucks hat just wouldn't prime even newer ones. I have found that taking a gs soaked rag and holding it to the intake tube while someone turns the key :woot: will start it instantly every time.
 

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sweet thanks...
 
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