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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a pretty bad leak on my pump. It leaks while sitting and engine not running. Its leaving a pretty big puddle overnight. I just revived the pump seal kit I ordered I just need some help on doing it right. Any info or videos would be greatly appreciated
 

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is it the power steering pump (around the can) or the coupling between the PS pump and the Vaccum pump?
 

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subscribed....mine is also leaking between the vaccum pump and ps pump.

cures and writeups on both scenarios would be awesome..thanks
 

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Did you get the vacuum pump renewal kit? It's pretty straight forward to fix your problem. Did your o-ring kit come with instructions? The kit I bought from Cummins has instructions which are pretty clear and easy to follow. The only thing I have been told, and this is by Peter Gould (GOULD GEAR AND ELECTRIC INC.) is to not put oil on the shaft seal when replacing it because it may push itself back out after assembly and re-installaton. It makes it difficult to install when dry but care is needed to push it in and seat it properly. Also, it's very important, take a close look at the old shaft seal in the vacuum pump, note how it is installed and make sure that the new seal is in the same orientation as the old one. It is very easy to place it in upside down and if that happens, you are back to square one and buying a new seal kit and doing the job over again. No special tools needed but large sockets, 1" and 1 1/4" sockets will help you drive out the seals and components. Some guys use short sections of PVC pipe in the proper diameter.

In a nutshell:

1) Disconnect both batteries

2) Drain the fluid from the pump

3) Disconnect high pressure supply hose and the 2 return hoses from the PS
pump

4) Disconnect the vacuum hose from the vacuum pump

5) Disconnect the flexible oil supply from the VP

6) Remove the steering pump and VP together as one assembly

7) Separate the PS pump and VP pump

8) Take the VP housing and VP bearing housing apart and remove cross coupling plate (the disk with the cross)


9) Place bearing housing seal-surface-side-up on workbench. Drive the seal retainer
out of the VP housing (with socket) , as you will see, it is aluminum and needs
something under it to level and brace it before hitting with hammer. Don't put this
in a vice, it will hurt it. This is a good time to note the position of the seal.

10) Remove old o-ring from the shaft seal sleeve

11) Press the seal out with appropriate socket

12) Clean all parts

Basically now we reverse the dis-assembly process to put it all back together:

13) Install the new shaft seal (remember how it came out?) by pressing it in and
carefully seating it fully

14) Lubricate and Install new o-ring on the sleeve

15) Reinstall cross coupling plate

16) Reinstall the sleeve - did you remember to note how it came apart?
IMPORTANT - make sure the o-ring is not pinched or distorted while
seating the sleeve

17) Replace the larger o-ring in the groove in the VP housing

18) Put the two halves of the VP back together making sure the dowel pin
seats into the dowel hole and the SP shaft end seats into the cross
coupling slot in the VP (rotate shaft if necessary). Secure the capscrews to 22
ft-lb


19) Assuming there is nothing wrong with the PS pump, carefully attach the
two pumps back together aligning the drive dog on the PS pump with
the slots in the VP cross plate. Torque to 18 ft-lbs. Don't forget to
put the pump support bracket in the correct orientation (because you
took photos and drew pictures and took notes when you disassembled
this unit, right?) You must replace the support bracket in the correct
location.


I bet you can figure the rest of this out, put the whole unit back on the truck with the new gasket, and reinstall all of the lines and hoses. When bolting the unit back on, do
so carefully and evenly by snugging the bolts down in a circular pattern and not all at
once. Remember, this is aluminum and it needs gentle handling. Connect the batteries.

Next we bleed the system.

Raise the front of the truck up (if you haven't done so already) and turn the steering wheel to the left full lock. Do not start the truck yet. Fill the PS pump with fluid to the 'full cold' level on the dipstick, and leave the cap off at this time. Turn steering wheel from lock to lock at least 20 times in both directions. Did you eat you Wheaties? Trapped air may cause fluid to overflow but have an assistant check and maintain fluid to the 'full cold' level as the level may drop as the air is relieved and you don't want to suck air in while you are trying to get air out or you will never get it bled. Start the engine (here is where you know if the truck was properly jacked) - turn the steering wheel at least another 20 times in both directions stop to stop. Let me add here that you must never hold the wheels to the stops for more than a second or two, especially when applying the brakes at the same time, whether on the road or during a repair. Ask me how I know and I will tell you that you will break the PS shaft because that's what happened to me. If I have left out anything, I'm sure someone will correct me. If you have questions, ask away!

Late entry: After re-installation, make sure that hoses are not touching anything, even each other because they naturally vibrate and will send harmless but earth-shattering sounds which can make you cry if you don't know why it is doing this.

But if your PS pump has a problem, don't bother trying to rebuild it, even Pete Gould said it's not worth the trouble and even he has had major difficulties trying so he doesn't do them himself anymore. It's a bear to take apart and much easier to replace the whole unit.
 

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sorry i just noticed i never posted my message earlier from work. basically i would remove the vaccum pump and ps pump as an assembly. Then seperate the 2 pumps. on the PS Pump remove the high pressure line from the back of the pump and i believer there are 2 bolts attaching the can to the pump, unscrew those and you will find your leak. replace the o ring and reassemble, make sure to be careful attaching the ps pump to vacuum pump or you will be dissaembling not long after to replace that seal (instructions for that are in the above post)
 

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I forgot to mention that it will benefit you to remove the air intake housing and unplug the oil pressure sending wires before removing the power steering and vacuum pumps. Also, be aware that space is very tight as you begin unbolting everything so be ready for some knuckle buster wrenching. Below are pages from the 2001 Technical Service Manual and applies to several 2nd Gen Rams. The instructions aren't very comprehensive but the illustrations will serve to help you identify parts. If you still need a real blow-by-blow tutorial on CD, contact Pete Gould (very nice guy) at GOULD GEAR AND ELECTRIC INC.







 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
thx for the info greatly appreciated, after looking it is coming from the back of the can. i think its the big o-ring on the back of the can facing the front of the vehicle. i plan on just replacing all the seals on the power steering pump. i had the service manual downloaded pdf format but it was accidently erased on the "community computer". where can i get the free download again?? i cant remember where i got it
 

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ill hook you up.
 

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Let us know how you get along with pulling that PS pump apart! Are you going to renew the VP seals while you're at it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
im starting this evening so i will post on how this goes. my first question before i start is do i absolutely have to remove the vacuum pump?? i just had a new one put in last year. i dont believe i need to replace the vacuum pump seals as they arent leaking. i just saw that the can on the back is leaking. i believe its the big o-ring. i ordered only the p/s pump seals from rock auto. i just was wondering if i could do this without having to remove the v/p since its not leaking and i didnt order the seals for it. thx again to all for your very helpful and useful info.
 

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I dont think you really would need to. Are you going to just attempt to remove the can from the pump? If so then i say go for it with both the vaccum pump and the power steering pump on the truck. If you are going to remove the power steering pump i would say go ahead and take off the vacuum pump with it. Just makes it so you dont bugger that seal when you are trying to mate the PS pump with the vacuum pump on reinstall.

Hope that makes sense.
 

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My truck was leaving power steering fluid puddles on the ground. I turned out to be the Hydroboost brake module. It was leaking inside the cab as well as all over the left side of the engine compartment.

One test suggested in the manual is to try and turn or wiggle the hydroboost can by hand. If it moves at all, it is shot and needs replacing. Mine failed.

I have no idea if they can be rebuilt or not but I decided to replace mine with a used unit. It was for a 2001 and there are differences. The lengths of the push rods is different but swapping them isn't a big deal.

So far so good. The brakes work, the random noises are gone and no more leaks.
 

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.....my first question before i start is do i absolutely have to remove the vacuum pump??
It's been done but be aware, more harm than good often comes of it. It's usually advised against because upon re-installation to the VP, it is real hard to align the PS shaft drive dogs to the VP drive coupler (the coupler is loose and flips and flops in there) when you can't see them or turn the PS shaft to insert it properly. It's a craps-shoot. And as countrymanlife points out, you can bugger the VP seal in the process as well. After the PS pump is apart, the pump shaft does not come out easily so don't try unless you have a press. But you only need to remove to shaft if you are replacing the bushing, which I gather, you are not. Good luck.
 

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hey im having a problem with my power steering leaking fluid, so i bought a new power steering pump, but it didnt come with any o-rings or anything? can someone give me a link to a format or something, that shows me where everything goes, im only 16 and dont know much yet, but im thinking my old power steering pump was fine, because it didnt even have any o rings on it to begin with? but when i took it off the other day, i only took off the ps pump, not the vaccum pump like every one else is saying to do, so pretty much what im asking is, where do all the o rings go, and whats the easiest way to take out the power steering pump, and what else could cause that leak? o reillys auto only gave me two o rings for the ps pump. so any advice is greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
ok guys so im guessing that im gonna need a new v/p flange gasket?? hey countryman and littlebuddie im taking your advice on removing the vp and ps can together. i noticed the bolts that i need to remove for the vp. is there only two? do they mount to the back of crankcase or there abouts? i notice that the ps pump to vp is 3 piece. so im just making sure that the instructions included on this post were right about taking it off from the front of block. thx again for your help. oh one more thing all the orings i have in my kit that i got from rock auto seem to be for the actual pump/pulley. i guess ill figure it out when i get it all apart. sorry for late posts but lots of other chores and duties to do around the house pregnant g/f, kids, horse, etc etc ....
 

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oh man i fully understand, since friday mid afternoon this is the first chance i have gotten to get online and check the forums.

To get the Vacuum pump off its 2 bolts on the crank housing, and then a bolt on a bracket right at the Power Steering pump. Believe its the lower one engine side (it might be 2 nuts actually). If you need help with the Vacuum Pump parts GOULD GEAR AND ELECTRIC INC. is a great site. And the 3 peices are really 2 peices for Vacuum Pump and 1 peice for the Power Steering Pump.
 
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