[CaliRollin7312]

Recently BOTH my up/down -- front/back motors went out in my driver side. Roughly a couple weeks before they went out I heard a random sometimes constant 'ticking' sound right behind my head in the seat. Somewhere.

I took the leather off of the seat and cleaned the plug at the top of the seat belt. Unplugged all connections and switches and cleaned. I've tried a new switch, also a new computer that's under the center seat. Verified fuses are good and replaced. Have 11.7 volts where the wire harness comes out from the floor under the seat to the first wire harness.

I'm stumped only because both motors one day just completely went out after a week of that ticking sound.

Hoping for someone who has related problems or solutions.. not looking to buy a $300 seat or two $85 motors..

Thanks

 

[cummins6sp5.9]

Did you try jumping 12 volts to the motors to see if they work ?

 

[CaliRollin7312]

No I haven't vecause I get 12v at my fuse panel when I hit my switch. Since the switched is wired through the motors/harness I assume no issues. Could be wrong. I'll figure out which wires are which and jump them tonight. I guess could be a
short somewhere stupid!

 

[bigfish95971]

11.7v should run them but why is it not 12+v Jump the motors and check ground wires, otherwise check all points with your volt meter.

 

[MikeRodrig27]

What is your voltage at the battery? 11.7 volts could indicate a large drop in voltage. This could drop drastically when the circuit is put under load. You could back probe the plug, put the motor under load and see if the motor is even trying to work.

 

[hc297rks]

At 11.7 volts your batteries are more than half discharged. I would fix that issue before getting into the seat issue. Unplug the seat module if you suspect a drain and recharge the batteries. They should hold 12.6 to 12.8 in a dormant state after the surface charge is gone.

 

[Anabolic]

so if the lines are getting power 11.7 or what, the motors are bad

test the batteries.

 

[DjWolf37]

Cant help with diagnosing your issue, but in the event you need new motors try a junk yard. My local yard sells seats for $50. I also have a driver side power seat frame if your are interested.

 

[MikeRodrig27]

I've noticed that seat motors have a tendency to go bad. A couple of mine are out. I still have the seat forward and reverse motion but that's it. I want to install a manual bracket and rip out the electronic crap when I get around to it.

 

[CaliRollin7312]

At 11.7 volts your batteries are more than half discharged. I would fix that issue before getting into the seat issue. Unplug the seat module if you suspect a drain and recharge the batteries. They should hold 12.6 to 12.8 in a dormant state after the surface charge is gone.

my batteries are a good 12.6 volts. the fuse location for my seats when I hit the switch in any direction goes to 11.7, but BOTH motors going out at the exact same time? Thinking elsewhere. Plus i'm having TC lock up issues and shutters so sadly i'm hoping a simple battery or alternator(even though all 3 things are one year old) will fix all this

Still haven't had time to just 12v to the motors, where would I run the hot wire to?

 

[bigfish95971]

Concerning lockup issues, you need to test the alternator for AC sine noise coming from it. 99% that is causing the lock up issues. Also test the new one for bad ac sine before installation. Then worry about he seat motors. Sounds like a short or bad motors. Check all wires, plugs and grounds. After new alt, do an APPS resest too. If you still have shuddering after fixing lockup issue, check line pressure. Hopefully you can get by without a new TC.

 

[hc297rks]

Sorry, I misread the OP about the batteries.

 

[CaliRollin7312]

Bigfish, according to Mopar1973Man I need a fluke meter to correctly test sine wave off battery due to lower costing brands not giving correct output. After my ladt ECM failure when I replaced my alternator it benchtested fine but anymore with my issues I don't believe it. Thete is a fluke version 101 on ebay for $70. Not sure if this will do the trick.

 

[CaliRollin7312]

My buddy has a top line Fluke, if goes as planned I'll be heading there tonight to test my alternator.

However this morning my drive said battery after one started was at 13.9 and passenger was 12.6-13.3, could it have been from only being started for 5min? Or bad battery. Battery is duralast, only 1 year old.

 

[hc297rks]

There are no graphic for the seat connector, but this may help. The horizontal motor pin 17 is red and light brown for rearward and pin 15 yellow and light brown for forward.
The front vertical is pin 21 red and light green for front down and pin 19 yellow and light green for front up.
The rear vertical is pin 11 yellow and white for rear up and pin 13 red and white for rear down.

There is either only one horizontal motor or they are both wired the same. Have fun.

On edit I believe that there may be 2 front and 2 rear vertical motors. I have seen these seats off level fore or aft.

 

[CaliRollin7312]

Wow.. lol, I really appreciate the info! I guess ill start the puzzle soon

 

[CaliRollin7312]

Could my problem be from my batteries being duralast marine batteries? Both hold 13.8-13.9v and cold crank amps are at 800. The previous owner had them in. I just wonder if they are linked to my previous ECM failure.

Also I noticed with my truck RUNNING and I test the power in the fuse panel location for my seats, I get 1-2v, if my truck is off, I get 8-9v. Not 11.7 anymore.

 

[hc297rks]

Usually a deep cycle battery will not have a CCA rating. If they have a top post and a threaded stud with a wing nut they may well be deep cycle instead of starting batteries. If they turn out to be starting batteries 800 CCA is plenty for our trucks.
Have you done a load test on the batteries?

 

[CaliRollin7312]

Usually a deep cycle battery will not have a CCA rating. If they have a top post and a threaded stud with a wing nut they may well be deep cycle instead of starting batteries. If they turn out to be starting batteries 800 CCA is plenty for our trucks.
Have you done a load test on the batteries?

yes, they test fine. Still confused at the voltage rating at the fuse location