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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Decided to replace the clutch pak in my D70 2U power lock.Mine are worn.
I know there are the stock fiber clutches, then there are all steel sets.
Just looking for near stock (maybe a little more aggressive).
Opinions? I have searched but most of what I have found is pretty vague.
Do the all steels wear longer? bite harder (on the same stacking of clutch assembly for comparison)? Noise comparison? Anything else?
 

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On my Power Lock, I used the stock packs. You can really make a difference in "aggressiveness" by arranging the clutches. I made mine "aggressive" and loved it. No issues whatsoever. I now have the AAM axle on a '05 and wish I had the old Dana. The LSD's on the AAM's are terrible.
 

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Decided to replace the clutch pak in my D70 2U power lock.Mine are worn.
I know there are the stock fiber clutches, then there are all steel sets.
Just looking for near stock (maybe a little more aggressive).
Opinions? I have searched but most of what I have found is pretty vague.
Do the all steels wear longer? bite harder (on the same sequence of clutch assembly for comparison)? Noise comparison? Anything else?
I got mine from Yukon not overly aggressive but have yet to have one tire spin always two. Not sure what you mean by metal or fiber clutches mine were metal with fiber bonded stacked with metal Bellevue plates.
 

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I’ve taken the Power Lok apart and blast the clutches.......providing they aren’t scored, the will be good as new.
 

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I’ve taken the Power Lok apart and blast the clutches.......providing they aren’t scored, the will be good as new.
Blast them with what?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I got mine from Yukon not overly aggressive but have yet to have one tire spin always two. Not sure what you mean by metal or fiber clutches mine were metal with fiber bonded stacked with metal Bellevue plates.
Some sellers sell the clutches without the fiber bonded to the metal plates. While doing a search I also read discussions where people have used the all metal sets and thought they were the better alternative. But most of the discussions were about aggressive action for off roading. I am more interested in street use in my 2wd (and the occasional muddy conditions where I live when it rains - infrequently).
 

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Have you tested yours to see if they are worn out, or just think they might be? I recently tested mine on a snow/ice covered pullout in WY with a travel trailer in tow. They still work as designed.
 

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On my Power Lock, I used the stock packs. You can really make a difference in "aggressiveness" by arranging the clutches. I made mine "aggressive" and loved it. No issues whatsoever. I now have the AAM axle on a '05 and wish I had the old Dana. The LSD's on the AAM's are terrible.
Not being real familiar with LSD's but thinking I am going to need to be what exactly do you mean by making it more aggressive?
Mine, new to me, is making what seems like a lot of noise during turning so will probably be doing the clutch pack shortly. Any input would be appreciated as this would be my first time at this.
Thanks
 

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Have you tried adding a bit more additive?
 

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Thanks GAmes, yes I have about twice the recommended amount, FSM, in there now. This is a donner truck, new to me, but while exchanging and rebuilding it I did put new axle and pinion seals in it and new gear oil and the required amount of friction modifier. Since then I have added more FM. I did not see anything that looked bad, no teeth missing or chunks of metal, and not much gunk, if you will.
When I make slow turns like coming into my driveway I can hear some chatter and feel a small vibration like driving over some small wash board type road. Just not sure if this is normal as the LSD is new to me.
I am not trying to hijack this thread just trying to get some info. :)
Thanks
 

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Have you tested yours to see if they are worn out, or just think they might be? I recently tested mine on a snow/ice covered pullout in WY with a travel trailer in tow. They still work as designed.
Mine wasn't working well. At present it is on the bench and the clutches are either down to metal or extremely thin fiber material. I have the Spicer rebuild instructions showing different clutch sequences for more or less aggressive bite. And I also assume that the worn fiber would make an effect on preload as they get thinner, so just blasting the fiber off and reinstalling them without an additional dished plate to make up for the missimg fiber material would make it bite less (mine currently has one per side - I assume stock setup as it looks like all the spicer fiber sets available only include enough for 1dished plate per side - even though the spicer instructions give a option for 2 on each side with one type setup)
Unless someone can clue me in better on the steel only set, I will probably just put it back in stock with new clutches. Seems to have worked good for you Mr Ames.
 

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Ya need to do a bunch of figure 8’s in both directions. That will allow the clutch plates to separate a bit allowing the FM to get in between them.
 

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Get the plates from Dr. Diff, you’ll be be happy and the guy knows his stuff. He can answer all your questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Have you tested yours to see if they are worn out, or just think they might be? I recently tested mine on a snow/ice covered pullout in WY with a travel trailer in tow. They still work as designed.
Guess I need to check this out a little better. Wheel spun when I had one wheel in the mud and another on pavement, but maybe wouldn't if it was more equal traction?
 

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With a clutch style sure grip, both wheels will spin. There is a small amount of release so you can go around corners, but if 1 tire starts to slip, the other will do so provided you got enough hp/tq to break them loose.
 

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Guess I need to check this out a little better. Wheel spun when I had one wheel in the mud and another on pavement, but maybe wouldn't if it was more equal traction?
It really shouldn’t. I can put one tire in ice and the other on dry pavement and both will still spin at the same rate. Before new clutches it would Not quite do that. Mine was an extreme case of wear there was zero clutch material left and tons of slop in the carrier to the point that I broke the spider gears. Most power-lok kits come with new spider gears for this reason since as they wear they ride on the toe of the spider gears and can eventually break teeth off.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
What mine is doing seems more like an open diff. But I know it is a power lock - physically saw it when changing fluid after I first bought it. Something not good here, guess I'll see when it comes out - hopefully just clutches - it's not making any bad noises.
 
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