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Discussion Starter #1
TURBOCHARGER BOOST PRESSURE “A”NOT DETECTED

guys I could really use some help here, it’s not on my truck but I’m working on my neighbor who’s retired and on a fixed income try and get his 07 6.7 Mega back on the road, it’s been sitting for over a year, I replaced his turbo cause his actuator was frozen. It was a used but good condition turbo from a fellow enthusiast. After the install, truck finally had power and what not but the Code P2262 came on, what could it be if the turbo and actuator on it are functioning properly? Is the actuator not calibrated correctly? Bad wiring harness somewhere? Please help as I’m not even charging him a dime , I just wanna give this guy some good luck and have his truck back on the road since his other Expedition is pushin 300K and on it’s last leg. Thanks guys!
 

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2262 is the "Hey, you've got turbo vanes sticking" code. BUT, it could be a map sensor or exhaust pressure sensor/tubing issue too.
I would try cleaning the sensors, tubing and manifold ports and see what happens.

Did you check out the used turbo prior to installing it? Did the vane move freely?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
2262 is the "Hey, you've got turbo vanes sticking" code. BUT, it could be a map sensor or exhaust pressure sensor/tubing issue too.
I would try cleaning the sensors, tubing and manifold ports and see what happens.

Did you check out the used turbo prior to installing it? Did the vane move freely?
yes they moved freely, I know right now the truck needs a regen cause it was stating exhaust filter full.I have a scanner to do a manual regen but while the vehicle has codes, it won’t let me run a regen.
 

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SnowDuner02, the actuators are a hit and miss specially the refurbished ones. Like xcc_rider said: start with cleaning the sensors, if that does not fix it then it got to be the actuator. Good Luck
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Guys, I pulled off the line, blew air through it thoroughly, even sprayed some cleaner through it, pulled the plug, cleaned, pulled the sensor and cleaned and still have the code. At this point do I start chasing and replace the exhaust back pressure sensor?
 

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SnowDuner02, were you able to see light going thru the sensor housing? Sometime it needs to be poked by a small needle to the clear soots caked on that hole.
 

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SnowDuner02, were you able to see light going thru the sensor housing? Sometime it needs to be poked by a small needle to the clear soots caked on that hole.
you know that I didn’t pay attention too! I’m gonna have topull it off again and go from there!
 

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also you mentioned your DPF is full... that typically means your EGR is sticking and over sooting. This will not help your turbo situation, not one bit. a full EGR service might be in order, bare minimum pull, clean and reinstall the valve.

Full DPF and VGT sticking or stuck are merely symptoms of the problem
 

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also you mentioned your DPF is full... that typically means your EGR is sticking and over sooting. This will not help your turbo situation, not one bit. a full EGR service might be in order, bare minimum pull, clean and reinstall the valve.

Full DPF and VGT sticking or stuck are merely symptoms of the problem
I believe I failed to mention I did clean the EGR valve already! I let it soak overnight in a EGR cleanse solution and came out spickity clean!
 
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I believe I failed to mention I did clean the EGR valve already! I let it soak overnight in a EGR cleanse solution and came out spickity clean!
Excelent! yea, if you running emissions intact, cleaning the EGR stuff is super super important. The manual calls for every 67,500k. Personally I would do the full service every 50k, and I would pull the just EGR valve itself for cleaning a lot more. Like every 25k. Its super easy to pull just the valve. Just have extra gaskets handy in case you tear one up on removal.

Also Purple Power works excellent and its a lot cheaper that the official EGR cleaning fluid. I think I did 1:1 when I did my trucks first 67,500k service. Came out spotless.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
OK guys so I decided to clean out the exhaust pressure sensor again and there was light
918999
coming out the other end how small is the port because the port exiting to the tube was just big enough to fit a piece of wire. Went out for a drive check engine light came back on and code P2262 came back on
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Is that tube clean? No blockages?
so I cleaned it out, it wasn’t too deep,I could feel the bottom maybe 1/2” in depth, the hole to the tube was super tiny, almost like 1/32” in diameter. But I could put my wire in and see it out the other end
 

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Well after researching, it comes down to the vanes in the turbo not moving freely. So you’ve got 1 or 2 things to fix it.
1. Clean the turbo vanes with whatever Mopar (or similar aftermarket) uses.
2. Get a new actuator by City Diesel. No calibration necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Any way it could be the M.A.P sensor (Manifold absolute pressure sensor)?!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well after researching, it comes down to the vanes in the turbo not moving freely. So you’ve got 1 or 2 things to fix it.
1. Clean the turbo vanes with whatever Mopar (or similar aftermarket) uses.
2. Get a new actuator by City Diesel. No calibration necessary.
So the turbo and actuator were off of 2010 running rig? Only had 80 K on it
 

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Once it’s disconnected, it’s needs to be calibrated from what I understand (factory turbo). The City Diesel actuator does not. Plug and play.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Once it’s disconnected, it’s needs to be calibrated from what I understand (factory turbo). The City Diesel actuator does not. Plug and play.
so the seller calibrated with no scanner, but he mentioned he’s calibrated 2 other turbos thAt way and never had issues
 

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I don’t much more than what I’ve said. Perhaps it should be taken to a dealer or shop and let them tell ya what you have going on. If it was me, I’d clean the turbo, cheapest and easiest to do. Then if that didn’t work, new actuator by City Diesel.
 
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