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I weighed my loaded truck and trailer set-up today and need some help interpreting the numbers to make sure all is good.

I have no experience with steer axle, drive axle and trailer axle weights but was curious was the full set-up weighed so stopped at a nearby scale today - below is a photo of the weights.

As mentioned in the title - the truck is a 2018 Ram 2500 megacab diesel. Trailer is an all aluminum 26 foot enclosed InTech car hauler (two 5200 lbs axles). Inside is one car, a pit bike, tires, tools, etc....basically, what you'd need for a day at the race track.

I'm using an Anderson No-Sway/weight distribution hitch (Hitch I'm using) and have Air Lift air helper springs (the truck does not have auto leveling) filled to ~70psi - the psi used was determined by measuring the fender height of the rear unloaded and then attaching the trailer and adding air until the squat was gone.

I was more curious on total weight which was 17,980lbs - but did not know how to interpret the specific axle weights to see if things needed to be loaded differently. The trailer pulls grteat with zero sway or drama even in heavy winds.

thoughts?

909367
 

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Add your steering axle and your drive axle weights together. If they are under your GVW rating for your truck your are golden. If it is over you have a problem. Check with your insurance company if your are. You might have to upgrade your policy. A lot of guys out there will tell you to just go for it don't worry about being overloaded. That is all good and fine until something goes wrong and you wind up in court.
 

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OK so mine adds up to 10,340lbs - I believe the GVWR of the truck is 10,000 lbs.

It seems the weight distributing hitch puts more weight on the truck itself? (I'm a novice at this so forgive my ignorance). I assume it does transfer the weight to the truck since there is no way I'm running 3000 lbs of tongue weight (truck itself should weight ~7000lbs) . I don't want to get rid of the Anderson hitch because the combo tows so nicely with this set-up.

Would decreasing the tongue weight fix it?

I think I should unhook the weight distributing part of the hitch and re-weight just for curiosity as this would answer the question I suppose.

I assume if I messed with the pressure in the airbags, that would only change the steer axle and drive axle weights (maybe less on the steer axle if I dropped the pressure and more on the drive axle) - but, I assume it would keep the combined steer axle and drive axle weights at the same 10,340lbs?

I have ZERO concerns about the safety of this current set-up but it would be nice to be under the GVWR.
 

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It seems the weight distributing hitch puts more weight on the truck itself?
Not really. What the hitch does is take weight off the drive axle and redistribute it to the trailer and steer axle.
 
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Placing more weight (~200-300) towards the rear of the trailer should lift some axle weight and get your numbers below the GCVW of 10k.

Meeting thresholds for towing....Youre not even close. Seen some tow 34-36k with same truck. Not condoning this in any way but it’s been done.
 

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Really if you’re running the weight distribution hitch correctly you won’t need the air bags.

As others have said the hitch just relieves some of the weight off the drive axle and puts it over your steer and trailer. If you’re that concerned about your GVW yeah you’ll need to move some of that weight off the tongue so it’s over the trailer axles more but don’t move it so far back that you’re light on the tongue either cause that’ll cause some wag... But if you readjust the load make sure you readjust the hitch as well...
 
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But obviously depending on what hitch/ball combo you have determines how much tongue weight you should have... Buying a hitch scale would be a good idea.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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7000 lbs sounds a little light for your truck, my single rear wheel 3500 Crew cab long bed with tool box, headache rack, full fuel and my 260lbs scaled at 8800.

I would go back and scale just the truck with the same stuff in the truck that you had when you scaled with the trailer and that will give you actual trailer weight. You can then figure out your tongue weight by subtracting the trailer weight from the trailer axle weights to see if it's good. I forget what the ideal tongue weight is, maybe 10 - 15%.

Also check your axle weights against gross axle weights on your door sticker.

Truthfully though if it pulls good with no sway and everything looks level I wouldn't sweat it, you are most likely fine.
 
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OK so mine adds up to 10,340lbs - I believe the GVWR of the truck is 10,000 lbs.

It seems the weight distributing hitch puts more weight on the truck itself? (I'm a novice at this so forgive my ignorance). I assume it does transfer the weight to the truck since there is no way I'm running 3000 lbs of tongue weight (truck itself should weight ~7000lbs) . I don't want to get rid of the Anderson hitch because the combo tows so nicely with this set-up.

Would decreasing the tongue weight fix it?

I think I should unhook the weight distributing part of the hitch and re-weight just for curiosity as this would answer the question I suppose.

I assume if I messed with the pressure in the airbags, that would only change the steer axle and drive axle weights (maybe less on the steer axle if I dropped the pressure and more on the drive axle) - but, I assume it would keep the combined steer axle and drive axle weights at the same 10,340lbs?

I have ZERO concerns about the safety of this current set-up but it would be nice to be under the GVWR.
IMO, It looks like you've got too much tongue weight. The truck specs say a 2018 2500 mega cab short bed 4 x 4 weighs 7,982 lbs with 300 lbs passenger and 100 lbs options. (don't know if fuel, DEF etc is included in the weight) So 17,980 - 7,952 = trailer weight of 9,998 lbs - 7640 axle weight = 2,358 tongue weight. For a tow trailer 10% is recommended. (15% for gooseneck). So you should have about 1000 lbs of tongue weight. As mentioned above, you could weigh the truck by itself and recalculate. But even at 8500 lbs truck weight, your tongue weight is still 1840 lbs which is the max (1800) for a class V hitch. You might want to consider moving some of the load to the rear of the trailer and weigh again.
 

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truck itself should weight ~7000lbs
7,000 pounds sounds awful light. My 2013 RAM 1500 Laramie weights in at 6,300 with my wife and I in it ( around 390 for us both) My 2015 RAM 3500 SB Cummins 4x4 SRW weights in at 8,400 (curb weight).

Too Tall's math looks like it is very close to what you really have.
 
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My 16’ 2500 cc/sb Laramie weighs in 8300-8500lbs with me and fuel. It’s heavier than what they advertise.

Being over gvwr of the truck isn’t an issue imo. Stay under your gawr and will be fine.
 

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My 2015 2 door 4wd, when stock, with full fuel and def and me and stuff, was right at 7,500lbs.
Its probably around 7,000lbs now.
A guy posted a dodge ram sight that you put your vin# in and I was surprised to see my towing was 17,780lbs. Payload was right at 2,500lbs and must be 3,000lbs or more now.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks everyone for their opinions - I have more info for you guys.

I think I'm loaded really far forward and have a ton of tongue weight - but, I'm, not experienced in this so I'll post my new info and you guys can tell me.

First of all, the truck weighs A LOT more than I though. Recall, 2018 Ram 2500 diesel megacab - it was weighted with exactly the same stuff inside as yesterday. Full tank of fuel and full tank of DEF - I weigh ~170lbs. The truck is stock with the exception of a Retrax Pro tonneau cover, the air springs and some stuff in the RAM boxes but not a lot. I was shocked at the weight.

And - - 8840 lbs
truck alone.jpg


I then unhooked the Anderson chains which are supposed to be anti-sway and weight distribution. I'm not sure if it as effective as other weight distribution solutions. I was expecting more weight to be transferred. Works AWESOME to prevent sway but only transferred 140lbs to the steer axle, 100lbs to the trailer axle and took 240lbs off the drive axle.

Here is the weight with the trailer attached to the truck by the ball only - weight distribution and anti-sway chains were taken off (air springs still inflated):

909403


and, just so the pics are all in one post - here is the weight of the truck, trailer combo with the Anderson Hitch chains tightened:

909404


So, in the end - it seems I have a ton of tongue weight. I've played around with loading the car back further and the trailer likes to move around more which does not feel very confidence inspiring. But, maybe I moved it too far back. It is a rear engined car so a lot more weight in the back of the car. I guess I could try moving it back just a tiny bit and get a tongue weight scale.

I'm more just curious at this point because without doing anything different my GVWR is only 300lbs high - I'd like it to be legal.

But, based what I've seen at the race track, people are WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY over loading their 2500s.

This trailer is all aluminum and at 26ft box length weight about 5000lbs empty and is supposed to have ~7% tongue weight empty from what InTech (the manufacturer) told me.

I'm certain I'm over analyzing this but totaled my 2015 RAM 2500 - trailer not attached (long story) and I started thinking about being 100% sure everything was legal.
 

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Thanks everyone for their opinions - I have more info for you guys.

I think I'm loaded really far forward and have a ton of tongue weight - but, I'm, not experienced in this so I'll post my new info and you guys can tell me.

First of all, the truck weighs A LOT more than I though. Recall, 2018 Ram 2500 diesel megacab - it was weighted with exactly the same stuff inside as yesterday. Full tank of fuel and full tank of DEF - I weigh ~170lbs. The truck is stock with the exception of a Retrax Pro tonneau cover, the air springs and some stuff in the RAM boxes but not a lot. I was shocked at the weight.

And - - 8840 lbs View attachment 909402

I then unhooked the Anderson chains which are supposed to be anti-sway and weight distribution. I'm not sure if it as effective as other weight distribution solutions. I was expecting more weight to be transferred. Works AWESOME to prevent sway but only transferred 140lbs to the steer axle, 100lbs to the trailer axle and took 240lbs off the drive axle.

Here is the weight with the trailer attached to the truck by the ball only - weight distribution and anti-sway chains were taken off (air springs still inflated):

View attachment 909403

and, just so the pics are all in one post - here is the weight of the truck, trailer combo with the Anderson Hitch chains tightened:

View attachment 909404



But, based what I've seen at the race track, people are WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY over loading their 2500s.
Yup.
 

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The entire trailer loaded is less than 10k lbs & your truck is rated to tow close to 17k. There really isn't any issue here. You would be hard pressed to find a 17k lb trailer load with under 2k tongue or pin weight.
 

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Check your owners manual and see what it says the maxim tongue weight is, this is the only number I feel you should worry about. As long as your axle weights are good I really wouldn't worry about the 10k gvw, with a 10k lb trailer you are well within the GCVW or gross combination vehicle weight rating.

The 10k gvw that 2500's come with is just an arbitrary number. Some states require any trucks over that to register as a commercial vehicle which increases registration costs along with possible increased insurance costs.

Your 2500 came from the factory with the same axles, brakes, wheels and tires as my 3500 and my gvw is 12400 lbs. The only difference is the suspension which you already addressed with the air bags.

So let's say something truly awful does happen and somebody does get hurt. Do you really think the insurance company, or police agency or attorneys are going to take your truck and trailer and weigh them individually and figure out your gvw. I highly doubt it, and even if they do and try to pin something on you for being 300lbs over gvw that would be quite a stretch to prove any negligence. Plus you have your scale tickets showing you are well within axle capacities and GCVW.
 

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If you do need to reduce your tongue weight load up your trailer with what you normally take and go back to the CAT scale. Once you pay the initial fee for the first weigh, reweighs are only $2.50 after that with a maximum charge of $20 per day.

So you can adjust your load around until you get to the desired tongue weight and it won't cost you an arm and a leg.
 

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Did you set up the wd hitch right? It should be set up without your bags aired up. With it at your empty settings. Measure the front fender and rear fender height. Then drop the trailer on it . Remeasure the heights. Then adjust the ball angle and the wd springs to return the truck to the original ride heights. Make sure your wd springs are rated for the tongue weight. Affer you have them set up you can use the air bags to fine tune any sway or shimmy out. The bags are really only their to reduce squat from a bed load not tingue weight.

With it set up right you should have to raise the rear end of tbe truck with the trailer jack to engage the wd springs.
 
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