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2000 3500 DRW QCLB NV4500 odo-182K, 4x4, S364.5/73.4/12cm SXE, QUAD V2, 35/12.5/16, 3.55s
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I finally made an account here since ive been finding answers to most my questions the past few years.

I know there will be at least one of y’all telling me to search for it but its just not there soo here we go yall

Ive put together a fresh build sheet for my 585-615hp goal (with help from many reputable sources) and im hoping im onto something here as i plan to build my truck by the end of next month

Heres the list and please feel free to tell me what you think about it and if there’s something you would change. I do want strong hp and the ability to occasionally tow moderately with defueling on the box. I will be expecting boost lag but i know how to properly tune and operate the skinny pedal on the right to make the most out of the setup safely

ARP 2000 Head studs

SB Street DD Clutch (550-650 organic/ceramic hybrid)
SB ADJ Clutch Assembly
Quadzilla Tuner w I-Quad
Quadzilla fuel pressure sensor
FASS 165 Lift pump
Beans Diesel Sump
Fluidampr
Valve cover Gasket
BD SXE 364.5/80mm .80AR turbo w hx40 downpipe
BANKS High Ram
Short Throw Shifter Kit
Turbo Tuber Boost Controller
ALLOYWORKS Radiator w/ dual fans (old ones busted)
AFE BladeRunner intercooler w piping
Stainless Diesel exhaust manifold
Hamilton 188/200 cam
Hamilton #103 Springs, Extreme duty rods
Hamilton 1.45” tappets
F1 Mach 6 220 hp injectors or Mach 7 240s (looking for input on which would be the best) yes i know they can smoke like a traeger but i honestly dont care as long as egts are in check
Killer dowel pin/ crank- cover seal kit

Thanks in advance. Sorry for the lengthy post
 

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Mach 6's will do it, 7's will be clean too. You will however really want to have compounds to reach your hp and expesicially tow. The 188/220 cam is not really ideal for a VP44 powerband. The 184/215(can't remember exactly the specs on that one) or ideally the 178/208 is better for the rpm range the VP44 will make run and make power. Honestly I would save the cam and do compounds 62/65/14 over 75/87/1.10 T6, more bang for the buck and you will want it with the manual where you loose boost each shift.
 

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The dual fans you actually have less cfm flow than the stock fan. I would save on not getting the intercooler, intake horn and get a coolant bypass instead. Popping the rear plug or let alone one in the head is the last thing you want to happen.
 

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2000 3500 DRW QCLB NV4500 odo-182K, 4x4, S364.5/73.4/12cm SXE, QUAD V2, 35/12.5/16, 3.55s
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The dual fans you actually have less cfm flow than the stock fan. I would save on not getting the intercooler, intake horn and get a coolant bypass instead. Popping the rear plug or let alone one in the head is the last thing you want to happen.
What exactly is the coolant bypass on a 24v and i havent been able to source a stock RAD for under the cost of a performance rad. And my intercooler is currently crushed from an accident. Still usable but needs replaced.
 

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Okay I see. I'm pretty sure the mishimoto intercooler is cheaper than the afe but had a lifetime warranty. They have an aluminum radiator also. I would look into them. That's the route I'm going when that time comes. The coolant bypasses slow coolant to flow from the rear of the block or head straight to the radiator to help keep them running cooler since the inlet and outlet of coolant for the engine in in the front so the rear runs hotter. I like the fleece coolant bypass the most as it pulls coolant from further back than any of the other bypasses.
 

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2000 3500 DRW QCLB NV4500 odo-182K, 4x4, S364.5/73.4/12cm SXE, QUAD V2, 35/12.5/16, 3.55s
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Okay I see. I'm pretty sure the mishimoto intercooler is cheaper than the afe but had a lifetime warranty. They have an aluminum radiator also. I would look into them. That's the route I'm going when that time comes. The coolant bypasses slow coolant to flow from the rear of the block or head straight to the radiator to help keep them running cooler since the inlet and outlet of coolant for the engine in in the front so the rear runs hotter. I like the fleece coolant bypass the most as it pulls coolant from further back than any of the other bypasses.
i do appreciate the info. Im assuming these kits just tap into one of the plugs on top of the passenger side block above the manifold. Soo you recommended to do the bypass and not do the intake stuff… is that due to an issue with the intake horn i selected or just $$ wise. I can afford both if its worth it. Also the reason i went with afe is because it comes with the black charge pipes and new boots which i want to replace due to it being 20 years old. Last thing i need is to drive it for a week and blow a boot which is a PITA to replace IMO. Also just like to replace old parts when i pull them off. The intake horn caught my eye with the performance (small but still a gain) and the fact that it has the ports pre drilled for boost. I can drill and tap ports but dont want to deal with it since i have a small window to build the truck
 

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Yes I was mainly saying it for the money to put the money towards compounds. I went with the Pusher 3.5" intake horn with the matching 3.5" passenger and driver's side intercooler piping(stock is 3") and it looks great but it only aided in spool up and minorly. Yeah I agree boots are a b***h to change. Yes the stainless diesel coolant bypass uses one of the fittings for the heater core I think.
 

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2000 3500 DRW QCLB NV4500 odo-182K, 4x4, S364.5/73.4/12cm SXE, QUAD V2, 35/12.5/16, 3.55s
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yes I was mainly saying it for the money to put the money towards compounds. I went with the Pusher 3.5" intake horn with the matching 3.5" passenger and driver's side intercooler piping(stock is 3") and it looks great but it only aided in spool up and minorly. Yeah I agree boots are a b***h to change. Yes the stainless diesel coolant bypass uses one of the fittings for the heater core I think.
Just watched a video on the fleece bypass and it seems relatively simple especially since il have the trans out for the clutch. Also might do the cam expansion plug while im back there for peace of mind. That reminds me as well i have to do the heater core too ugh. Havent had it in two years and i cant take another year of the ol lady complaining about it haha. Just cant wait to see what the numbers come out to be at the wheels but going from stock to the projected numbers is bound to be a blast. Also i was thinking about compounds but im really looking forward to the big single action (at least till i get bored of it) the cam should aid in the spooling and overall efficiency of the engine as well
 

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If I was going to run a big single one a VP44 I would look into a K29 but with a housing custom machined for it as the 17cm² housing is a bit large. Basically an ats aurora 5000. A bit better turbine wheel for a higher hp hot street VP44. The only thing is how heavy do you tow? The cams are nice but you want to be careful, I have head of a few people being disappointed with the 188/220 cams on a street truck as they took a hit in low rpm velocity due to the large duration combined with the lift. It's just an overkill size on a VP truck. I like the No Limit MFG cams as the lift and duration is more conservative.
 

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2000 3500 DRW QCLB NV4500 odo-182K, 4x4, S364.5/73.4/12cm SXE, QUAD V2, 35/12.5/16, 3.55s
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If I was going to run a big single one a VP44 I would look into a K29 but with a housing custom machined for it as the 17cm² housing is a bit large. Basically an ats aurora 5000. A bit better turbine wheel for a higher hp hot street VP44. The only thing is how heavy do you tow? The cams are nice but you want to be careful, I have head of a few people being disappointed with the 188/220 cams on a street truck as they took a hit in low rpm velocity due to the large duration combined with the lift. It's just an overkill size on a VP truck. I like the No Limit MFG cams as the lift and duration is more conservative.
I tow heavy about 2-3 times a month nothing over 20 miles on flat ground only if the boss isnt around to move equipment but it does weigh in at 18,500 total. Otherwise il drag around nothing more than 10k on occasion. I am wondering how some people are losing their lower rpms when if I remember correctly that cam was designed to let the truck breath but also bring your power band down a few notches on the tach for a bit more lower end punch aiding in spool and torgue. I could be wrong tho. And as reguards to the turbo i am dead set on the sxe lineup do to their manufacture and just overall build of the turbo. Also running a S/O vp due to its fueling capability under electronic alterations being superior over any other vp44 build. If i need more fuel i plan on p-pumping the truck anyway and i think you can agree thats better money spent
 

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Depends on the cam how it changes you rpm band. The 188/220 moves it up a lot. It will enable greater airflow but you can have too much of a good thing hurting low lift port velocity. I've heard of it quite a few times over the years. On a VP truck it's just not needed but if you want to stay small. That's true the sxe line is difficult on to beat for the price and simplicity of install. P-pumping is good but on a truck that works hard I would stick with the dynamic timing of the VP. Unless you find a reasonably priced engine which is hard to come by nowadays and they're almost always either a 160 or 175 horse. I would just want to go to a 180 pump if going for performance on a p-pump conversion. If you have to buy everything it can run between 3-4k for the conversation kit, pump, and benching which is always recommended.
 

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2000 3500 DRW QCLB NV4500 odo-182K, 4x4, S364.5/73.4/12cm SXE, QUAD V2, 35/12.5/16, 3.55s
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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Depends on the cam how it changes you rpm band. The 188/220 moves it up a lot. It will enable greater airflow but you can have too much of a good thing hurting low lift port velocity. I've heard of it quite a few times over the years. On a VP truck it's just not needed but if you want to stay small. That's true the sxe line is difficult on to beat for the price and simplicity of install. P-pumping is good but on a truck that works hard I would stick with the dynamic timing of the VP. Unless you find a reasonably priced engine which is hard to come by nowadays and they're almost always either a 160 or 175 horse. I would just want to go to a 180 pump if going for performance on a p-pump conversion. If you have to buy everything it can run between 3-4k for the conversation kit, pump, and benching which is always recommended.
I am thankful for the info on this stuff. My question for you now would be… how will the hamilton (181/210) towing cam vs the street cam affect the way the truck runs and drives? Id like to spool a bit faster to reduce the lag for my towing needs (im not expecting to drag race a mustang with a trailer hooked up but would like better than stock capabilities with the right tuning and be able to drag mid-weight loads like a car hauler or travel trailer up the mountains eventually. But i dont want to be limited on the top end yknow. Also as far as cams go what other cam would you recommend for my goals. I want a freighttrain on the road while empty and a non sluggish hauler that will take care of business while hooked on. Not expecting a drag hauler. Just not struggling to move some weight
 

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A 178/208 is still better flowing than the stock cam above 3k rpm, it just gives up power compared to the larger cams above 2600rpm. Honestly the cams were really made to optimize these engine for competition use where they're operating at rpm's well above redline so in those applications they will benefit greatly. They figured what worked for that and then they figured out what worked for a street engine but there's not as much benefit really. Your turbo selection will make a much larger difference there and much more to gain if done right. I think doing larger cams are a good idea if people can swing them, but for a street application they should be kept small to aid in spool up and if you want more top end run a larger turbo. Speaking of which you may want to go with a .83AR T4 housing since you're buying the stainless manifold. They flow a good amount of air. They have a wastegated version which is what I would go with 64.5/80 but for you goals I would run a 66/80 and then you could run the non wastegated version.
 

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2000 3500 DRW QCLB NV4500 odo-182K, 4x4, S364.5/73.4/12cm SXE, QUAD V2, 35/12.5/16, 3.55s
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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
A 178/208 is still better flowing than the stock cam above 3k rpm, it just gives up power compared to the larger cams above 2600rpm. Honestly the cams were really made to optimize these engine for competition use where they're operating at rpm's well above redline so in those applications they will benefit greatly. They figured what worked for that and then they figured out what worked for a street engine but there's not as much benefit really. Your turbo selection will make a much larger difference there and much more to gain if done right. I think doing larger cams are a good idea if people can swing them, but for a street application they should be kept small to aid in spool up and if you want more top end run a larger turbo. Speaking of which you may want to go with a .83AR T4 housing since you're buying the stainless manifold. They flow a good amount of air. They have a wastegated version which is what I would go with 64.5/80 but for you goals I would run a 66/80 and then you could run the non wastegated version.
Ok i do understand the cam portion now. I do recall that the wastegated turbos on the 24s were used to fix an issue with the 12v non wastegated turbos just don’t remember what. Im assuming wastegating just helps tune the turbo more precisely and allows you a safeguard against over spool-ish whereas the non wastegated turbos you just have to tune the fueling curve to defuel or watch the turbo psi closely. My question is what kind of gains/downfalls are associated with a 66 vs a 64.5 when it comes to my application/goals and what would the wastegate vs non wastegate do on a 66. Sorry im still learning turbos and their applications and am damn appreciative of this information. Edit… i just realized you mentioned the wastegated t4 manifold with a non wastegated 66. Any further info on why i should use this setup. I will say i started this journey not wanting over 40% overs and over the course of two weeks here i sit wanting 220-240 injectors and a big a** turbo 🤣
 

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Yea the 1st gen 12 valves had non wastegated turbos I'm pretty sure. The wastegated are to keep from overspending or alleviate drive pressure. A turbo that's on the smaller side for a setup you want a wastegate, a turbo that's large you can get away without one. The stainless manifold doesn't have an external get flange on them. I was just saying that since you're buying a manifold I would go with a T4 then you can run a .83AR T4 housing the right way instead of a T3-T4 spacer plate. The 66 will reach you goal easier but spool a bit slower. The 64.5 will be the opposite.
 

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You can make 600HP on the 64.5mm and it will spool a bit faster. for 600HP we have a 64.5mm/88m exducer with 73.4mm turbine and a quick spooling 12cm housing. It should perform better than the super B special that was a 64.5mm/ 91mm with the 71mm turbine wheel and 14cm gated housing.

The new 64.5mm SXE will flow more than the old 66mm cast wheel and it is lighter. Its a Win/Win.

If you want more than 600HP then go compunds or be prepared for lag. The 66mm would be good for 650HP and the 69mm 700hp. They both have the 91mm exducer on the compressor wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
You can make 600HP on the 64.5mm and it will spool a bit faster. for 600HP we have a 64.5mm/88m exducer with 73.4mm turbine and a quick spooling 12cm housing. It should perform better than the super B special that was a 64.5mm/ 91mm with the 71mm turbine wheel and 14cm gated housing.

The new 64.5mm SXE will flow more than the old 66mm cast wheel and it is lighter. Its a Win/Win.

If you want more than 600HP then go compunds or be prepared for lag. The 66mm would be good for 650HP and the 69mm 700hp. They both have the 91mm exducer on the compressor wheel.
I thank you for the info but i must say i am confused with how you are wording this… you said you have a better turbo than the SXE But then promote the SXE. i may be reading wrong and i do apologize if i am, also i know the 12cm housing spools faster but might get too hot while pulling 18.5k pounds.
 

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I would do a 64mm turbo SXE turbo.

A 64.5/73.4/14 would be slower spooling. The 14cm would not be as responsive during daily driving nd towing. With a 12cm Peak EGT will be a little higher, and be a little lower EGT (because it ill spool faster) during cruising and towing.

With any set up you have a compromise Quick spool vs peak EGT.... Except with compounds--- where the compromise is $$$.

The 12cm will tow better and spool better @ 600HP.
 

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Might go a bit further on the clutch. I run a SB3600DD in mine. It was quiet at first. sounds like a vibratory tumbler at this point 😂 typical dual disk noise...they're only quiet for a year or two before they decide to get loud and chattery. Don't really care though. It holds the power and doesn't slip with the pedal to the metal.

Make sure you get the upgraded input shaft, and the HD hydraulics as well.

Speaking of those. my south bend HD hydros finally gave out after about 13 years. Just ordered a valair HD hydro set from Jacob's (@jkidd) shop to replace it. Nothin like havin your clutch pedal go limp on you on your way to work in the snow 😂 Luckily I was only a block from home and got the truck back in the driveway, and started it in gear a couple times to get it parked.

Looking forward to rolling around in the snow to replace it...🤦‍♂️ Least the car does well enough in the snow so long as it doesn't get too deep.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Might go a bit further on the clutch. I run a SB3600DD in mine. It was quiet at first. sounds like a vibratory tumbler at this point 😂 typical dual disk noise...they're only quiet for a year or two before they decide to get loud and chattery. Don't really care though. It holds the power and doesn't slip with the pedal to the metal.

Make sure you get the upgraded input shaft, and the HD hydraulics as well.

Speaking of those. my south bend HD hydros finally gave out after about 13 years. Just ordered a valair HD hydro set from Jacob's (@jkidd) shop to replace it. Nothin like havin your clutch pedal go limp on you on your way to work in the snow 😂 Luckily I was only a block from home and got the truck back in the driveway, and started it in gear a couple times to get it parked.

Looking forward to rolling around in the snow to replace it...🤦‍♂️ Least the car does well enough in the snow so long as it doesn't get too deep.
Fair nuff. Unfortunately i did just get my clutch in the mail and yes it came with upgraded input shaft and hd hydraulics. I actually just installed my quadzilla tonight along with my corbeau xrs seats for the cherry on top. I had to hardwire my data link inputs though because the data link pigtail on the truck side was ripped even though its never been used. But after that 3 hour job i set her on level 3 just because i havent had a chance to install my fass 165 yet and holy s**t it took off like a [email protected] ape compared to my old superchips and the idle is back to butter smooth. Have a big pile of parts to install here soon. One question though… under 60-70% load im seeing only 9-11 psi of boost on the monitor, is this normal while empty or should i swap the MAP sensor
 
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