part number on spicer axle u joint?
did a search on this could not find a number...
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thats great info... i should of clarified that i need the greasable spicer axle u joint...
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ya, i read on here the spicer are the best for the money. nobody came up for a part number though. im just trying to get the best price, but dont know which one to get.
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Great info! :thumbsup: I'll keep this thread for future reference.
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I only use the 5006813 sealed units. Greasable doesn't always mean that it is a good joint. You could drill out and put a zerk fitting in the oem joints and they would still be junk. The main cause for premature death to a ujoint in most cases is water and salt intrusion. A greasable joint is more likely to allow water in and throw greae out than a properly sealed joint.
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149 Posts
well i figured sense i just replaced all my whole front end with greasable joints and all my other u joint on the drive lines i might as well grease these last 2 while im at it.
anybody have a part number for spicer axle u joint greasable?...:confused013:
anybody have a part number for spicer axle u joint greasable?...:confused013:
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The bearing cups on the 5006813 seal so good with the triple lip you pretty much need to pry them off. And you feel them snap back on when you press the cups back on.
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Might be a few months old this thread, but I am listing parts, etc right now to rebuild the front of my truck (118K on all original everything and it's really, really beat).
I've got everything listed I want to get, but similar to this thread I am struggling with u-joints.
If it matters, or helps, here's what I've found out based on quite a few hours of internet searching and reading and phone calls to various parts places, drive shaft specialists, etc (i.e. a lot of aggravation for freakin u-joints).
Truck: 2004 QC 4x4 Diesel Auto
Front drive axle u-joints: These are odd size AAM units. They will be listed as "AAM series 1485WJ". Spicer does not make a 1485 series, only 1480 series and these will NOT fit. However, Spicer does have the 5006813 which is made specifically for the AAM front axles. They are NOT greasable, however, as mentioned they are sealed very well and should last better than the crappy AAM parts. Spicer does NOT make a greasable unit for this application as of this post.
NEAPCO also makes joints for these axles. Part #3-0485
Front drive shaft: Strangely, the front drive shaft does apparently use standard Spicer sized u-joints (from everything I can find and have been told. I am not 100% sure of this yet!). The front shaft also uses a Constant Velocity "Double Cardan" joint. Most 2003-2005 trucks use the smaller 1330 size joints. There are some trucks made during this time frame that have the larger 1350 (AAM 1355) size joints. You need to measure the cap diameter on your joints to determine which you have. 1330 series = 1 and 1/16" diameter and the 1350/55 = 1 and 3/16".
You will need 3 u-joints for the front drive shaft. 2 for the CV joint center yoke and 1 for the differential end of the drive shaft.
You have your choice of the Spicer 1330 or 1350 series to use for the double cardan joint and an SPL25 for the differential end (assuming what I have found out so far is true about the front drive shaft using Spicer sized joints, still working on that).
Rear drive shaft: The rear drive shaft gets ugly again. For whatever reason, AAM decided to use odd-sized u-joints. The cap diameters are pretty standard, spicer makes joints that will meet this spec, but the issue is the lockup dimension (distance from the end of one cap to the end of the other directly across the joint). AAM joints are .010" shorter.
RAMs with 6-speed trannies and 3-piece rear shafts use the AAM 1485 series joints. The Spicer 5006813 will NOT fit this application as the lockup dimension is way too short (For the AAM series 1485WJ series, the WJ stands for "Wheel Joint" and is nowhere near the same as joints on the rear drive shaft.). Most of the other trucks use the AAM 1415 series joints. Spicer does NOT make a joint that fits this application as of this posting.
I've read of some folks grinding the ends of the caps .005" on Spicer joints, or having the clips thinned by the same amount, but if this isn't done precisely, it throws the joint out of alignment. Some folks have managed to force Spicer units into the yolks, but this makes them too tight and causes heat and premature failure.
Again, as of this posting, as far as I know, Spicer does NOT make a joint for the rear drive shafts on these trucks. However, one website I visited, 8LUG Truck Gear lists the Spicer 5-801X as "specifically designed for the one-piece rear drive shaft that utilize the 1410 series yokes" in the 03-up dodge trucks. I am trying to verify this claim as general searching on the 5-801X everywhere else does NOT make this claim. Again, this seems odd Spicer doesn't make AAM spec joints other than the front drive axles. Maybe we need to write Spicer and ask them to make them!
If anyone has information that updates, refutes, etc anything above, PLEASE post!
Since I am on this roll, let me also delve into the ball joints and wheel bearings. If the odd-sized u-joints aren't enough of a PIA, just wait till you dig into the ball joints and bearings!
The more I read about these AAM 9.25" axles, the madder I get. It seems it was an extremely poor choice on Dodge's part to use these infernal things. I can't understand why Dodge went to AAM instead of keeping the Danas. Bottom line, the AAM 9.25" axle on the front of these trucks is complete junk. So much so that I am seriously considering and researching what it would take to swap it out for a Dana set up.
Problem #1: The wheel bearings are not serviceable. You have to replace the entire hub and bearing assembly. Ok, on the surface this doesn't sound too terrible until you find out one freakin hub/bearing assembly is expensive as hell. I see prices running between $300-$400...EACH! 'nuff said on that.
Problem #2: The ball joints are an incredibly poor design/set up. Unfortunately, even a full set of Carli or other expensive "super" ball joints may not cure the problem much longer than stock ball joints.
The issue is that the setup on the AAM axle does not place the upper and lower ball joints in any kind of alignment with each other. The upper ball joints are NOT weight bearing at all and are free-floating in the vertical to allow for the different ball arcs when steering. The entire weight of the front end of your RAM rides on the lower ball joints! If that's bad enough, the lower ball joints are only 4% bigger than the ball joints used on much lighter vehicles, like Jeeps CJs and even on those vehicles, all 4 ball joints are weight bearing. The RAM ball joints have no provision for any kind of pre-load setting to keep things tight and smooth. ANY wear on the lower ball joints instantly manifests itself as looseness. In fact, the 2003 Service Manual gives NO specification for acceptable movement or play! Later manuals quote up to .09" vertical and .06" horizontal play as still in spec!!!
This enough to almost convince me to save the $800 for the monster Carli joints and just slap stock crap back in it because replacing the ball joints is an every 2-3 year deal apparently.
Again, I hope this is helpful.
I've got everything listed I want to get, but similar to this thread I am struggling with u-joints.
If it matters, or helps, here's what I've found out based on quite a few hours of internet searching and reading and phone calls to various parts places, drive shaft specialists, etc (i.e. a lot of aggravation for freakin u-joints).
Truck: 2004 QC 4x4 Diesel Auto
Front drive axle u-joints: These are odd size AAM units. They will be listed as "AAM series 1485WJ". Spicer does not make a 1485 series, only 1480 series and these will NOT fit. However, Spicer does have the 5006813 which is made specifically for the AAM front axles. They are NOT greasable, however, as mentioned they are sealed very well and should last better than the crappy AAM parts. Spicer does NOT make a greasable unit for this application as of this post.
NEAPCO also makes joints for these axles. Part #3-0485
Front drive shaft: Strangely, the front drive shaft does apparently use standard Spicer sized u-joints (from everything I can find and have been told. I am not 100% sure of this yet!). The front shaft also uses a Constant Velocity "Double Cardan" joint. Most 2003-2005 trucks use the smaller 1330 size joints. There are some trucks made during this time frame that have the larger 1350 (AAM 1355) size joints. You need to measure the cap diameter on your joints to determine which you have. 1330 series = 1 and 1/16" diameter and the 1350/55 = 1 and 3/16".
You will need 3 u-joints for the front drive shaft. 2 for the CV joint center yoke and 1 for the differential end of the drive shaft.
You have your choice of the Spicer 1330 or 1350 series to use for the double cardan joint and an SPL25 for the differential end (assuming what I have found out so far is true about the front drive shaft using Spicer sized joints, still working on that).
Rear drive shaft: The rear drive shaft gets ugly again. For whatever reason, AAM decided to use odd-sized u-joints. The cap diameters are pretty standard, spicer makes joints that will meet this spec, but the issue is the lockup dimension (distance from the end of one cap to the end of the other directly across the joint). AAM joints are .010" shorter.
RAMs with 6-speed trannies and 3-piece rear shafts use the AAM 1485 series joints. The Spicer 5006813 will NOT fit this application as the lockup dimension is way too short (For the AAM series 1485WJ series, the WJ stands for "Wheel Joint" and is nowhere near the same as joints on the rear drive shaft.). Most of the other trucks use the AAM 1415 series joints. Spicer does NOT make a joint that fits this application as of this posting.
I've read of some folks grinding the ends of the caps .005" on Spicer joints, or having the clips thinned by the same amount, but if this isn't done precisely, it throws the joint out of alignment. Some folks have managed to force Spicer units into the yolks, but this makes them too tight and causes heat and premature failure.
Again, as of this posting, as far as I know, Spicer does NOT make a joint for the rear drive shafts on these trucks. However, one website I visited, 8LUG Truck Gear lists the Spicer 5-801X as "specifically designed for the one-piece rear drive shaft that utilize the 1410 series yokes" in the 03-up dodge trucks. I am trying to verify this claim as general searching on the 5-801X everywhere else does NOT make this claim. Again, this seems odd Spicer doesn't make AAM spec joints other than the front drive axles. Maybe we need to write Spicer and ask them to make them!
If anyone has information that updates, refutes, etc anything above, PLEASE post!
Since I am on this roll, let me also delve into the ball joints and wheel bearings. If the odd-sized u-joints aren't enough of a PIA, just wait till you dig into the ball joints and bearings!
The more I read about these AAM 9.25" axles, the madder I get. It seems it was an extremely poor choice on Dodge's part to use these infernal things. I can't understand why Dodge went to AAM instead of keeping the Danas. Bottom line, the AAM 9.25" axle on the front of these trucks is complete junk. So much so that I am seriously considering and researching what it would take to swap it out for a Dana set up.
Problem #1: The wheel bearings are not serviceable. You have to replace the entire hub and bearing assembly. Ok, on the surface this doesn't sound too terrible until you find out one freakin hub/bearing assembly is expensive as hell. I see prices running between $300-$400...EACH! 'nuff said on that.
Problem #2: The ball joints are an incredibly poor design/set up. Unfortunately, even a full set of Carli or other expensive "super" ball joints may not cure the problem much longer than stock ball joints.
The issue is that the setup on the AAM axle does not place the upper and lower ball joints in any kind of alignment with each other. The upper ball joints are NOT weight bearing at all and are free-floating in the vertical to allow for the different ball arcs when steering. The entire weight of the front end of your RAM rides on the lower ball joints! If that's bad enough, the lower ball joints are only 4% bigger than the ball joints used on much lighter vehicles, like Jeeps CJs and even on those vehicles, all 4 ball joints are weight bearing. The RAM ball joints have no provision for any kind of pre-load setting to keep things tight and smooth. ANY wear on the lower ball joints instantly manifests itself as looseness. In fact, the 2003 Service Manual gives NO specification for acceptable movement or play! Later manuals quote up to .09" vertical and .06" horizontal play as still in spec!!!
This enough to almost convince me to save the $800 for the monster Carli joints and just slap stock crap back in it because replacing the ball joints is an every 2-3 year deal apparently.
Again, I hope this is helpful.
I'm still working on it, so I will update when I get answers concerning the front drive shaft. The u-joints for the front are the only ones I'm not sure of. That and the one website stating there are Spicers that will fit the rear, but somehow I don't think that is correct.
I'm currently up to $3500 just in parts to rebuild my front end, not including the rear drive shaft u-joints. Also my list includes a Superlift 4" lift instead of the $700 Thuren control arms I was going to put on if I keep the height stock. The lift is $1350 so that adds about $400 since the kit includes shocks too. (Figure $700 for the control arms and about $200 for a pair of good front shocks on the non-lifted list).
I do have the Carli ball joints on my list and I may just do it and see if, in fact they do last longer. What the hell, it's only money at this point.
As for the wheel bearings on the AAM, there is a kit that replaces the entire hub and bearing unit with a nicer unit that is heavier duty and servicable, but the kit is $1900 and makes the hub manual locking. Not sure I would spend that for an AAM axle and not keen on the manual locking part.
I haven't really delved into it too hard yet, but I am seriously going to see about swapping out the POS AAM front axle for a Dana. Even if I have to find one in a junk yard and rebuild it (at least the parts to rebuild it are readily available and most of all, CHEAP!).
Hindsight is always 20/20 and if I'd known then what I know now, I would have had to seriously think long and hard about buying the Dodge. Unfortunately, it's just one of those damned if you do, damned if you don't situations. On the one hand the Dodge has the crappy AAM stuff, but it has the Cummins engine and IMHO is the best looking of the trucks. I admit, I do like the look of the new Chevy/GMC body styles, but I need a tractor for my acreage and I currently have the purchase of a new tractor in the plans for next spring. The last truck payment gets made this coming January, which clears the cash flow for a tractor payment. If I do pursue the Dana swap, it won't happen until after the current front end rebuild wears out.
Oh yeah, my list also does not include a new main seal (mine is leaking). That's going to get done at the dealer as I'm not going to tackle that job myself. I don't have an estimate on that yet, but I have been told the dealer quotes the labor at 4.3 hours for auto tranny and 6.2 for manual tranny. I figure the total is going to be around $600ish.
I'm currently up to $3500 just in parts to rebuild my front end, not including the rear drive shaft u-joints. Also my list includes a Superlift 4" lift instead of the $700 Thuren control arms I was going to put on if I keep the height stock. The lift is $1350 so that adds about $400 since the kit includes shocks too. (Figure $700 for the control arms and about $200 for a pair of good front shocks on the non-lifted list).
I do have the Carli ball joints on my list and I may just do it and see if, in fact they do last longer. What the hell, it's only money at this point.
As for the wheel bearings on the AAM, there is a kit that replaces the entire hub and bearing unit with a nicer unit that is heavier duty and servicable, but the kit is $1900 and makes the hub manual locking. Not sure I would spend that for an AAM axle and not keen on the manual locking part.
I haven't really delved into it too hard yet, but I am seriously going to see about swapping out the POS AAM front axle for a Dana. Even if I have to find one in a junk yard and rebuild it (at least the parts to rebuild it are readily available and most of all, CHEAP!).
Hindsight is always 20/20 and if I'd known then what I know now, I would have had to seriously think long and hard about buying the Dodge. Unfortunately, it's just one of those damned if you do, damned if you don't situations. On the one hand the Dodge has the crappy AAM stuff, but it has the Cummins engine and IMHO is the best looking of the trucks. I admit, I do like the look of the new Chevy/GMC body styles, but I need a tractor for my acreage and I currently have the purchase of a new tractor in the plans for next spring. The last truck payment gets made this coming January, which clears the cash flow for a tractor payment. If I do pursue the Dana swap, it won't happen until after the current front end rebuild wears out.
Oh yeah, my list also does not include a new main seal (mine is leaking). That's going to get done at the dealer as I'm not going to tackle that job myself. I don't have an estimate on that yet, but I have been told the dealer quotes the labor at 4.3 hours for auto tranny and 6.2 for manual tranny. I figure the total is going to be around $600ish.
After more research and phones calls I have an update to the u-joint issue on the 2003-2005 Dodge Ram HD trucks. The defining conversation was with George at 8lug Truck Gear. George is very knowledgeable on these trucks and friendly to talk with. I will be ordering as many parts as I can for my front end rebuild from him.
All added, updated and/or changed information from my original post is in red.
Truck: 2004 QC 4x4 Diesel Auto
Front drive axle u-joints: These are odd size AAM units. They will be listed as "AAM series 1485WJ". Spicer makes part # 5006813 which is made specifically for the AAM front axles. They are NOT greasable, however, they are sealed very well and should last better than the crappy AAM parts. Spicer does NOT make a greasable unit for this application as of this post. NEAPCO also makes joints for these axles. Part #3-0485
After reading several offroading forums and technical sites I have decided to use the Spicer Life Series u-joints. These are sealed, non greasable joints. I made this decision for 2 reasons; the sealed units are stronger since they are not drilled out for grease channels. They are sealed better than greasable units to keep out water and debris, the real enemy of u-joints. With the frequent wet weather and salt in the
winter of western Pennsylvania, it makes sense. Afterall, u-joints are not expensive and this is a very affordable “experiment”.
Front drive shaft: The front drive shaft uses standard sized u-joints. The front shaft also uses a Constant Velocity "Double Cardan" joint. Most 2003-2005 trucks use the smaller 1330 size joints. There are some trucks made during this time frame that have the larger 1350 series joints. You need to measure the cap diameter on your joints to determine which you have. 1330 series = 1 and 1/16" diameter and the 1350 = 1 and 3/16".
You will need 3 u-joints for the front drive shaft. 2 for the CV joint center yoke (series 1330 or 1350) and 1 for the differential end of the drive shaft (Series SPL25).
Rear drive shaft: The rear drive shaft is a mixed blessing. The single piece shafts use standard sized joints. The multi-piece shafts use an odd-sized AAM joint.
The single piece shaft takes standard 1410 series joints. The multi-piece shaft uses AAM 1485 series. Spicer does NOT make a joint equivalent to the AAM 1485 as of this post. NEAPCO does make this joint, part #3-0486.
As always, any information that differs or adds to this, please let us know.
When I get the parts in and actually do the work I'll post an update on how it all went.
All added, updated and/or changed information from my original post is in red.
Truck: 2004 QC 4x4 Diesel Auto
Front drive axle u-joints: These are odd size AAM units. They will be listed as "AAM series 1485WJ". Spicer makes part # 5006813 which is made specifically for the AAM front axles. They are NOT greasable, however, they are sealed very well and should last better than the crappy AAM parts. Spicer does NOT make a greasable unit for this application as of this post. NEAPCO also makes joints for these axles. Part #3-0485
After reading several offroading forums and technical sites I have decided to use the Spicer Life Series u-joints. These are sealed, non greasable joints. I made this decision for 2 reasons; the sealed units are stronger since they are not drilled out for grease channels. They are sealed better than greasable units to keep out water and debris, the real enemy of u-joints. With the frequent wet weather and salt in the
winter of western Pennsylvania, it makes sense. Afterall, u-joints are not expensive and this is a very affordable “experiment”.
Front drive shaft: The front drive shaft uses standard sized u-joints. The front shaft also uses a Constant Velocity "Double Cardan" joint. Most 2003-2005 trucks use the smaller 1330 size joints. There are some trucks made during this time frame that have the larger 1350 series joints. You need to measure the cap diameter on your joints to determine which you have. 1330 series = 1 and 1/16" diameter and the 1350 = 1 and 3/16".
You will need 3 u-joints for the front drive shaft. 2 for the CV joint center yoke (series 1330 or 1350) and 1 for the differential end of the drive shaft (Series SPL25).
Rear drive shaft: The rear drive shaft is a mixed blessing. The single piece shafts use standard sized joints. The multi-piece shafts use an odd-sized AAM joint.
The single piece shaft takes standard 1410 series joints. The multi-piece shaft uses AAM 1485 series. Spicer does NOT make a joint equivalent to the AAM 1485 as of this post. NEAPCO does make this joint, part #3-0486.
As always, any information that differs or adds to this, please let us know.
When I get the parts in and actually do the work I'll post an update on how it all went.
sorry dig up an old thread, but I just bought theses here:
Autoplicity.com. Dana Spicer Axle Products AXLE U JOINT - 5006813
for $52 each. Everywhere else I found wanted 70-80 each
Autoplicity.com. Dana Spicer Axle Products AXLE U JOINT - 5006813
for $52 each. Everywhere else I found wanted 70-80 each
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495 Posts
The price is higher on that link now. Best price I could find was here 5006813 Dana Spicer 1485 Series Axle U Joint Dodge 9.25.
Lancer, good job on the research man, thanks. How are things workin out for ya?
Lancer, good job on the research man, thanks. How are things workin out for ya?
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