Yea it is quite a lot that's why I'm surprised removing the cluster did drop it so much.
Yea it is quite a lot that's why I'm surprised removing the cluster did drop it so much.Amp and an half seems like a LOT to me for something like the cluster, with no "visible" symptoms. WATTS= IE (current in A x V) that's nearly 20 watts!! That's enough to warm things up!!!
EG just for fun I looked up a 1004 dome lamp, they get hot as hell and are less than that.
Will do thank you! Will be checking on this today, but only thing that worked yesterday was unplugging cluster, but I will check the radio and smarty. I'll have to check the brake light switches, only reason I thought it was the master cylinder fluid level sensor was because the ebrake light is stuck on as well.Your brake lights outside stuck are on? That is actuated by a grey switch mounted near brake pedal. Those are picky and you have to adjust them correctly. So it’s either that or the switch is not even mounted. It could be hanging there.
As for power draw, unplug smarty and radio and see if it stops. Those smarty touches draw a bit while parked.
Also I recommend unplug/remove aftermarket remote start for testing. That may be the problem too.
I'll keep that in mind. Recently yes have added quite a bit, however this happened before the amps and bumper mounted lights. I'll keep checking all of that. Kind of a stupid question, but I'm assuming leave that fuse 51, the one creating the parasitic draw, plugged in and test for voltage on various pieces of equipment or accessories and use that to determine where power is going correct?Things I'd keep in the back of my mind:
ANYTHING aftermarket added especially entertainment, amplifier etc
Lights, glove box is small for that draw, but any lighting, camper?
third brake light?
Keep alternator in the back of your head. See if it is warm.
Check the lighter and accessory outlet
You are probably aware that some things automatically shut down after a delay so don't let that lead you down the wrong track