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Discussion Starter #1
Well, this was going well...I have the engine's correct TDC determined (thanks GAmes) and went to check the the timing alignment under the plug on the side of the IP. The good news is the metal 'tang' is just where the photos say it should be; the bad news is the plastic locating plunger used to lock it down was broken sometime in the past (one ear is broken). I'm not quite sure how to proceed. I'm guessing the little plunger needs to be replaced (any suggestions?), but I still need to get this pump off so I can replace the leaking tappet cover. How can I best proceed? Also, how does one best keep the engine from turning over while trying to loosen the 30mm nut on the IP? This truck is an auto. Thanks guys!
 

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you will have to order a new timing plug for the pump, should be able to find it though an injection shop or cummins. Could even check out some classifieds, maybe someone has a nuked pump they will sell you the timing plug out of.

best (proper) way to hold the engine from moving is to use an engine barring tool. Or you could just try and hold it with one of the damper bolts on the crank. FYI, you should have busted the nut loose before you located TDC!

Bust the nut loose, locate engine TDC, pop gear off pump.
 
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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thanks for the advice (again)! :thumbsup: I was expecting to re-acquire TDC after everything was loose, I was just messing around to see where it was before I started. If I can't get my hands on the part I'll just machine one up to take its' place. Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Nut came off without too much drama; now I'm now looking at a puller with the wrong bolts. :banghead: Does anyone know what size/thread these guys (pump gear) are? She's fighting me...
 

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One of the purposes of the engine barring tool is to keep the engine from moving when you tq the IP nut. It is also real handy when making small adjustments while timing. You will probably decide you need one after all.

I think you can work around the plastic timing pin tool. You can certainly remove the pump without it. IIRC I reversed it prior to reinstalling my pump since the cover is difficult to get to.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Agreed. I was going to order one last month and just forgot. Then (of course) the 96 decides to pull a BP just as we're supposed to take some horses across the state. I'm normally a bit better prepared. :banghead: Do you happen to know the bolt size used to pull the IP gear? Guess whose puller has all the wrong stuff...:doh: Cheers!
 

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Just shootin off the top of my head but i think they are M8
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Good shooting! I just found that they match the bolts taken off the IP, so I'm off to the parts store to get a couple to sacrifice on the puller.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, everything that needs to be removed, has (I think), yet it sits there still firmly attached to the engine. The 4 bolts that attach the pump to the cover came off easily (along with the gear), but it doesn't want to turn loose. I'm leery to pry on anything, so I just hit those 15mm studs with PB and will let it soak. Is this normal behavior? If so, what works to loosen things up?
 

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their are 2 bolts about mid way down the pump accessed from up top (actually near the end of the pump body, just before the gov housing) that hold the pump to the rear support under the pump.

If you dont unbolt it from the rear support, it can be a real bytch to get it to move LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Wow, it really helps if you take all of the bolts out! :rof The lower one escaped me, hiding there in plain sight. I can finally see the evil tappet cover that caused all of this commotion.
 

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Speaking of the tappet cover,the 6 bolts that hold it on have special rubber coated washers. Don't forget to replace those as well as the gasket. A guy I know who has done several gasket replacements swears by 3M Super Weatherstrip Sealant (the black stuff). Advance Auto carries it around here and according to their website, K-Mart. Seal the gasket to the cover, let it cure, then seal the gasket to the block. Beware, the stuff is messy and hard to remove from fingers, clothes, etc. I wish I had worn throw away gloves.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
Sound advice, I've heard good reviews about that sealant. The gasket I got from NAPA has the washers you speak of. You better believe I don't want to do this again any time soon. I just noticed your sig and wondered if you might have an opinion on moving (or removing) the plate and giving the starwheel a turn or two? This truck is normally hooked to a horse trailer, so I can't get too brave about mods. A little more power and a few extra MPG's wouldn't be a bad thing if I don't compromise reliability. It's stone stock, 2WD with an auto. Any thoughts?
 

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Just another FYI regarding the gasket. I have yet to try one, but apparently the 'cheaper' parts store gaskets (felpro or what have you) dont tend to fit and seal all that well. Not too many people have had great success with them.

So for what its worth, i wouldnt mess around with a cheap gasket. Changing it isnt all that fun LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I've heard that. As soon as it stops raining here, I'll see what it looks like compared to the stock one. It's a long gasket and those can cause trouble if not done perfectly. I certainly don't want to do this again anytime soon!
 

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I just replaced the one on the engine I'm prepping. Cummins gasket about $20 but the washers were separate. I had to pull it like a rubberband to get it around the cover. In the past I had a shop do the work on my current engine, so this is my first install.

I'm one of the don't remove the plate crowd. The same guy who recommended the 3M sealant made 800 HP on his '97 on #2 only. He also designed and developed some of the TST plates. His recommendation is do not do it, and I respect his credentials. For a very long time I ran a #11 plate and really like it. Plenty of power for me, (297hp/611tq) on the dyno, easy to keep EGTs in check with 215 injectors, stock exhaust and turbo. 70% of the time I have a trailer of some type hooked up, normally 10k to 13k but I have towed 15k thru the rockies a few times. When I had my pump worked on the shop owner conducted several bench tests with the #11 plate and with his own special towing grind. He asked what RPM I usually use while towing. When I told him 2000-2200 he recommended removing the 3k gsk and reinstalling the stock springs to facilitate a lower rpm tq. According to him my best power with the gsk came in at about 2600, with stock springs it was in the 2100 range. He also asked me to try his cam plate and if I didn't like it he would swap both the springs and the #11 back, no charge. He drives a '96 auto and told me that with his cruise set at 65 pulling his 10,000 lb TT he never exceeds 1200* egt. He installed his plate, did multiple test stand runs for positioning it and adjusted the stock springs to still allow full fueling to about 3300 rpm. After I installed the pump I set the timing to 15.7. My first tow was a private 5er that was full of the owners possesions, it weighed about 12k. What a difference!!! With my #11 I would have to shift down to 5th to climb a 6% grade. His plate allowed me to stay in 6th, boost went to the high 20s and EGT never bumped 1200.

Anyway, my long winded answer is don't be afraid to experiment with the star wheel and a mild plate. From what I have read, just pushing the stock plate forward will provide some power, but egts are a problem. First order of business are gauges. Determine you baseline with stock settings and go from there. BTW, the #11 is for sale.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
I'm still in a holding pattern with the 'liquid snow' refusing to give me a break. I knew I should have moved that truck into the garage before starting this, but noooo, I didn't want to make a mess...:doh:

BTW, the FelPro gasket I have on hand looks like a quality piece; heavy, molded rubber, not cheapo cork. We'll see.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I venture to say that FelPro might have made the cover gaskets for Cummins. When I finally got the offending unit in my hands, every marking, font, dimension on the OEM gasket is exactly the same as FelPro's with the exception of the part #. This engine has very obviously never been taken apart before, so it wasn't a previous replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I'm going back over all the bolts before starting this thing up. Does anyone know what the correct torque specs are for both the 15mm P7100 mounting nuts (to front cover) and the 10mm bolts to the engine bracket? My cheat-sheet doesn't have them. Thanks!
 
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