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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well 1st I took my truck on an 800 mile trip on the Alaskan highway. Fuel mileage as about what I expected. 14.5 mpg when driving through the mountains unloaded at 55-65mph. On flat highways I was hitting just over 17 mpg at 65 mph. All was hand calculated, the overhead was reading a consistent 1 mpg higher than those numbers. Once I got back I got a P2262 code, cleared it out and it hasn't came back. Is this anything I should be worried about? Oh and the change oil light came on at only 2100 miles. That can't be right, I haven't towed much yet, and I don't do much city driving. Stupid idiot lights!
 

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Mine did the same. The dealer said that it has to do with the running time and idle time, and a little to do with viscosity.
 

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The change oil light is very glitchie. Turn the key to the on position, the one before turning over the starter, pump the throttle to the floor and back 3 times and turn the key off. The change oil message will now be cleared.
 

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2262 is the turbo code. For most it keeps coming back. You should have the dealer replace your turbo to correct the problem for good.
 

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John,
Did you check your oil level??
These trucks have a unique feature, that they produce their own oil:lol3: you put in 12 quarts, and take out 15 quarts when you change the oil!!
I had this happen when I did my last oil change!
There was that much fuel getting past the rings with 3600 miles on the oil.
I think I fixed that problem now with my dpf and egr delete. NO MORE REGEN!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The oil level seems to be staying at the same level for now. As for the P2262 it said no boost pressure detected, but the turbo was working fine when it happened and after I cleared the code. They will replace the turbo just for that? I would like to think it was a glitch of some sort, theres only 2400 miles on the truck. I suppose if I take it in I'll have to put my stock intake back on. I'm sure they'd try to blame it on that.
 

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I had that code on time and the dealer just cleared it. They told me that once a week or so I need to work the exhaust brake and clean the soot off the VGT. This is how you work the turbo:

When your driving with the EB on just start down shifting your Trans until it really starts slowing down the truck. This will clean out your turbo and should keep you from getting the turbo code.

I try to do this as much as possible to keep from wearing out my brakes. There is actually a service bulletin coming out soon to drill and tap the turbo and install a self cleaning kit. It is suppose to be out this month. Check with your dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the advice, thats kinda what I thought. I normally run the EB all the time, but I don't normally down shift manually or use the tow/haul mode. I'll give it a try and see what happens.
 

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There is actually a service bulletin coming out soon to drill and tap the turbo and install a self cleaning kit.
I'm in line to get this performed, but what do you mean by "self cleaning"? What's involved in the cleaning or how does it work? I was under the assumption it was a fitting tapped into the turbo housing that a steel-braided line attached to that the dealer would use to clean it by running a solution through it. In fact they told me about this weeks ago (when they asked if I was willing to be a guinea pig for the kit) and the only reason they couldn't do it is because the cleaning solvent/solution had not arrived in their Parts Department yet.

Does it work differently than that?
 

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I had this turbo cleaning procedure done yesterday. The turbo was drilled and tapped. What I gathered was this cleaning solution was injected into the turbo and the tapped hole was then plugged. I have been fighting the 2262 code for a month.
 

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Flattman-

That sounds right but I was told that they would leave the bottle i place and it would clean for a period of time.
 

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So every time we get the 2262 it will back to the dealer for another injection of cleaning solution?

Sounds like more of a inexpensive stopgap than a solution.
 

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I agree. It is going to take some time to get a fix.
 

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Yeah, lets drill a whole in our turbos, spray some stuff in and then put a plug in the whole. That will correct all the troubles.................................
 

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Wouldn't water meth injection continuously clean the turbo? I was thinking about getting the new Snow Perf. milage kit that always sprays a fine mist under boost, and then sprays a second larger injection under heavy boost for extra power and cooling. I thought this would give many benefits. Lower egt's,increase fuel economy, more power:thumbsup and clean the valves and turbo. Anyone done this yet and looked to see how much soot is still on the turbo??
 

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Sounds like more of a inexpensive stopgap than a solution.
EXACTLY!! And that's my problem with this "fix". I equate it to cleaning your kid's room. It stays clean for a short period of time, but then it just gets filthy again unless you address the root of the problem or your kid moves out.
 

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Garry- do you have a link to this mileage kit from Snow? I would be interested.
 

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Here's a link


Snow Mileage Max

I'll be buying one as soon as I scrape up a bit more money. I'll post results then, but if anyone is using it now, please let us know how it works!

Edit:
I just talked to Snow Perf. a few minutes ago. They had a 6.7 with 3000 miles on it. They were running a Bullydog with EGR and DPF still on. When they installed, the intake was full of soot. Then 5K miles later, they changed a water injection nozzle in the intake. The intake was almost spotlessly clean!! The regen would go on almost daily before. After the water meth, they only saw it regen once a month at the most!! That was with DPF EGR and Bullydog still installed. I think this will take care of the turbo issues, and save $8-10 per fill up, since windshield fluid is alot cheaper than diesel.

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You run windshield washer fluid? why not run actual methanol?
 

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As long as it's winter fluid (blue), not the summer pink bug fluid, it'll have 40-50% methanol in it. Plus it's cheap and easily accessible. I'll have to stock up now, before all the winter fluid is sold out.
 
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