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If you purchased from us anytime this year, you will have the correct 330OHM resistors. There are 2 styles of sims, but they are all the same internally. I would check them all with a meter, and if 1 of them is out of spec, we can send you a new one to fix it. There are a few flashes out there that can cause fits with the DPF delete, mostly manual trans flashes. Either way we can get you fixed up.

The one thing I cannot stress enough is that every single truck will act differently! Every call I get guys want to argue with me about what worked on "their buddy's truck" and what I am telling them to do is wrong. You cannot take what works for one guy as the gospel for all trucks. Each truck may require a different setup.

If your truck is going into regen, 99% OF THEM TIME IT IS DUE TO A PRESSURE SIM. THAT IS WHY WE DON'T SELL THEM ANY MORE. There are only a handful of trucks that will require the pressure sim, and ONLY IF THEY ARE USING A JUICE W/ ATTITUDE OR A PMT TO BE CODE FREE, AND ARE CLEARING CODES EVERY SINGLE STARTUP.

Here is the test to see if you need the pressure sim! Plug the factory harness into the factory pressure sensor. Turn key on, let the juice/pmt clear codes, then WITHOUT TURNING THE KEY OFF, START ENGINE. Go for a drive, no less than 5-10 miles. If you get a CEL with the code P244a, as well as the overhead stating "catalyst full", you need the sim. If you get no CEL or a CEL WITHOUT the overhead message, you don't need the pressure sim.

If you follow this as a guide as to when to use/not use the pressure sim, you will save yourself many hours of headache. If you have questions, email me!

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