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I'm having an issue with my 2006 5.9 manual. I bought the truck a few months ago, and up until recently it's been running like a scalded dog. I was taking a small trip (600-ish miles) probably a month ago, and while cruising at 70mph my grid heater light comes on and chimes 10 times, and my power was cut almost in half. I stopped and filled up, turned the truck back on, and there was no light. Ran great for a few weeks. Fast forward to 3 days ago. Coming home from a local trip, same thing. Light, 10 chimes, no power. I scanned the codes and got a P1222 "Injector Control Circuit Intermittent". I pulled the valve cover, and the injector harness looked like it had been put in a blender. I replaced it hoping that would fix my problem, but no dice. About 250 miles in the light came on again.

Any ideas here? I ohm tested the injectors when I had the valve cover off, and injector 1 was bouncing all over the place to begin with. Tested 2-6 and all were good. Once I checked all the others, I came back to 1 to confirm that's the problem child, and it settled nicely at 0.6, so I figured maybe I just didn't have good contact on my first attempt.

Really hoping someone can point me in the right direction here (and the right direction not being $3k for new injectors...).

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Also, I was averaging around 15.8 MPG, and as soon as the light came on and my power was cut, my MPG shot up to 16.4. Not sure what the deal with that is, either.
 

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Good news. You can get injectors for around $2k vs $3k.

If you're getting your fuel mileage from your overhead display, it's wrong and you need to hand calculate to figure out you're actually fuel mileage.

High return rate from the injectors can cause the chiming and the grid heater light to turn on. You can try running a heavy dose of cleaner to see if that helps. You can ohm the injectors, but that won't tell you much. Im not sure if you can see signs of a high return rate from a contribution test, but it wouldn't hurt to have a contribution test done.
 

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Good news. You can get injectors for around $2k vs $3k.

If you're getting your fuel mileage from your overhead display, it's wrong and you need to hand calculate to figure out you're actually fuel mileage.

High return rate from the injectors can cause the chiming and the grid heater light to turn on. You can try running a heavy dose of cleaner to see if that helps. You can ohm the injectors, but that won't tell you much. Im not sure if you can see signs of a high return rate from a contribution test, but it wouldn't hurt to have a contribution test done.
I'll calculate the mileage when I fill up next.

As far as the injector cleaner, I've already ran a bottle of Stanadyne performance formula (blue bottle) through it because that's what my mechanic recommended. Bottle said treated up to 60 gallons, so I did half the bottle per fill up. Should I try it again with the full bottle at fill up?

Excuse my ignorance, as this is my first diesel. What's a contribution test?
 

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You can try a full bottle or do a triple dose and do a bottle and a half. How many miles are on your injectors? A contribution test will give you the balance rates (how they are performing) of your injectors.
 

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You can try a full bottle or do a triple dose and do a bottle and a half. How many miles are on your injectors? A contribution test will give you the balance rates (how they are performing) of your injectors.
My truck has approximately 184k on it, but I'm unsure if they're the OEM injectors.
 

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If those are the original injectors, it's not uncommon for them to start failing around that mileage.
 

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That is the worng description for the code and the WTS light\dings. You have a leak detection DTC being set and the ECM is seeing a large enough leak it is derating power. Could be any one of the componeent sin th efuel system is failing, injectors worn, LP failing, etc. Nothing to do with injector wiring or solenoid performance. Time to start checking LP pressure, CP-3 return, rail PR valve, etc.
 

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That is the worng description for the code and the WTS light\dings. You have a leak detection DTC being set and the ECM is seeing a large enough leak it is derating power. Could be any one of the componeent sin th efuel system is failing, injectors worn, LP failing, etc. Nothing to do with injector wiring or solenoid performance. Time to start checking LP pressure, CP-3 return, rail PR valve, etc.
I actually bought a FCA and rail PR valve, but once I scanned the code and saw that it was the injector circuit and pulled the valve cover, I never thought about those parts again. I'll install them when I get back from work on Monday. I'm currently on a work trip and I'm driving the truck. By the time I get home, I'll have another probably 400 miles on the truck. Is it dangerous to drive as it is? I can swing by an Autozone and get another bottle of fuel treatment and run that through this tank and maybe that'll help. I just don't want to torch the top of my pistons or anything.
 

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That code is for leak detected when motoring, not as bad as the 1223, if it is de rating you might have both being stored and the reader just cannot see them. Watch your oil level, if it is bad injector leak it will show in oil levels. Any DTC like that is never good news, but, it is hard to tell if is or a false positive or real and how bad it is without some diagnostics.
 

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That code is for leak detected when motoring, not as bad as the 1223, if it is de rating you might have both being stored and the reader just cannot see them. Watch your oil level, if it is bad injector leak it will show in oil levels. Any DTC like that is never good news, but, it is hard to tell if is or a false positive or real and how bad it is without some diagnostics.
I have been watching the oil, and its staying firmly planted right where it was when I changed it. It's gotten pretty dark pretty quickly, though. About 4k miles and it's fairly black, but doesn't smell like diesel, so that's a plus.

I picked up a bottle of Diesel Kleen injector cleaner on my way back from work. I'm going to dump the whole bottle in and fill up in the morning. I'll reset my odometer and keep track of how much fuel I'm using. Hopefully some of these things (paired with replacing the FCA and PRV) will narrow down my problem.

EDIT: I've also read that the crossover tubes can be an issue. Either they're bad, or they're not torqued properly. Any thoughts on that? Pulling the fuel rail and torquing the tubes shouldn't take long, I wouldn't think.
 

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You can retorque the feed tubes, i believe the FSM calls for 37 ft lbs. Just make sure you blow off the area with compressed air really well, you don't wanna get any debris in in the feed tubes or fuel lines.
 

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Pull an oil sample after work, cooled off crankcase or burned arm. Wipe off drain plug area, spray clean with brake cleaner, wipe off again. 3>4 ounces in a sample bottle and ship off to Blackstone for diesel contamination in oil test. You can't tell 5 or even 10% fuel dilution in oil but their lab test equipment can.
May save you a titttes up motor
 

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Pull an oil sample after work, cooled off crankcase or burned arm. Wipe off drain plug area, spray clean with brake cleaner, wipe off again. 3>4 ounces in a sample bottle and ship off to Blackstone for diesel contamination in oil test. You can't tell 5 or even 10% fuel dilution in oil but their lab test equipment can.
May save you a titttes up motor
How much does such a test cost? And what's the turnaround time?
 

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How much does such a test cost? And what's the turnaround time?
$25 is what it cost me, but i think it went up to $28. I don't remember how long it took to get the results, but i don't think it was over a week.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

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How much does such a test cost? And what's the turnaround time?
$25 is what it cost me, but i think it went up to $28. I don't remember how long it took to get the results, but i don't think it was over a week.

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Oh, that's not bad at all. I'll definitely look at grabbing a sample this week and having it tested.

I'll be adding the PSD Diesel Kleen to a full tank tomorrow as I'm heading home (which will be about a 260 mile drive) so we'll see what happens. I'm still hoping this is just a clogged injector and a heavy dose of cleaner will fix my problem.
 

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If you contact Blackstone they will send you a container for your oil sample.
 

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Alright, finally made it home.

Dumped a bottle of Diesel Kleen in the tank and filled up. 149 miles later I stopped and filled up again to calculate mileage. 149 miles, 14 gallons = 10.64mpg. I'm no engineer, but I feel like that number should be higher.

Also, when the truck is idling (and at very small amount of throttle) I hear a faint tick/knock from under the hood, but at higher RPMs and at highway speed I don't hear anything. This is my first diesel, so I've never experienced it, but I've heard of something called injector knock. Could the noise I'm hearing be that?
 

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Well, I took an oil sample and sent it off for testing. They'll do everything from checking for diesel in the oil, detergents, additives, wear metal, the works. It's a company I use often for work, so I trust their work. Should have results back by the end of the week. I assume that ANY diesel in the oil would indicate an injector problem, and thus resulting in the replacement of them?
 

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Diesel can also get into the oil through a leaky seal in the CP3. That is not as common though.
 
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