P pump

That isn't fuel, it is oil. The fix is to remove the pump and take it to an authorized Bosch shop to get the seal replaced. More than likely the rod will need replacing as well. It is the other end of the rod attached to the fuel shut off lever.

GAmes said:

That isn't fuel, it is oil. The fix is to remove the pump and take it to an authorized Bosch shop to get the seal replaced. More than likely the rod will need replacing as well. It is the other end of the rod attached to the fuel shut off lever.

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GAmes said:

That isn't fuel, it is oil. The fix is to remove the pump and take it to an authorized Bosch shop to get the seal replaced. More than likely the rod will need replacing as well. It is the other end of the rod attached to the fuel shut off lever.

Click to expand...

GAmes said:

That isn't fuel, it is oil. The fix is to remove the pump and take it to an authorized Bosch shop to get the seal replaced. More than likely the rod will need replacing as well. It is the other end of the rod attached to the fuel shut off lever.

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is it bad if a run it fo some time like this ?

You'll just make a mess and have to add oil every once in awhile.

Is th

GAmes said:

That isn't fuel, it is oil. The fix is to remove the pump and take it to an authorized Bosch shop to get the seal replaced. More than likely the rod will need replacing as well. It is the other end of the rod attached to the fuel shut off lever.

Click to expand...

is there a temporary fix I’m in Kansas and need to get back to south Texas to fix it

I’d say clean that engine, but I’m sure that dirt and grime is hiding some other gremlins.

12v1995j said:

is there a temporary fix I’m in Kansas and need to get back to south Texas to fix it

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Then drive to Texas. When mine was leaking I probably put it off for close to 50,000 miles. While you have it removed I recommend you take the opportunity to replace the side tappet gasket.

GAmes said:

Then drive to Texas. When mine was leaking I probably put it off for close to 50,000 miles. While you have it removed I recommend you take the opportunity to replace the side tappet gasket.

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Ok I will definitely get that done also thank you all

Does this make me look speed on hills or over pass when pulling a 5th wheel camper i also loos speed when not pulling what can that be I’m new to this trucks I have only own gas trucks

12v1995j said:

Does this make me look speed on hills or over pass when pulling a 5th wheel camper i also loos speed when not pulling what can that be I’m new to this trucks I have only own gas trucks

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That's a pretty vague question. Is the engine stock? How big is the 5th wheel? How steep are the hills? Which transmission? An automatic was only rated for 160HP/400 TQ in 1995. A 5 speed wasn't much stronger 175/420. So yes, losing speed on hills would be expected with a trailer. An oil leak won't make it worse.

I recommend you take the time to read through (4) Beginners Thread - Read First! | Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum (cumminsforum.com)

I got the truck in November and all I can see it’s stock and it’s a 5.9 automatic and what I’m pulling is a 5th wheel Rv 41 ft about 13,000 lb

12v1995j said:

Does this make me look speed on hills or over pass when pulling a 5th wheel camper i also loos speed when not pulling what can that be I’m new to this trucks I have only own gas trucks

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12v1995j said:

I got the truck in November and all I can see it’s stock and it’s a 5.9 automatic and what I’m pulling is a 5th wheel Rv 41 ft about 13,000 lb

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An all stock 95 auto truck had a whopping 160 hp when new (probably a little less now). Its no wonder you're loosing speed when towing a 13K lbs camper. These trucks are DOG slow in stock form, there are plenty of free and cheap ways to bump up the power, but power houses in stock form they ain't.
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12v1995j said:

I got the truck in November and all I can see it’s stock and it’s a 5.9 automatic and what I’m pulling is a 5th wheel Rv 41 ft about 13,000 lb

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I've boosted my power to over 300 HP and a 13,000 lb trailer will still slow me down. If you are considering adding more fuel to increase your power I suggest you do some research about the 47RH transmission. There is a reason why dodge put a lower powered engine in front of them.

Ok what upgrades do you recommend on the transmission and on fuel like the pump fass or air dog and injectors

12v1995j said:

Ok what upgrades do you recommend on the transmission and on fuel like the pump fass or air dog and injectors

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Read through the stickies at the top of each section. There is a wealth of information in them. There are answers to questions you don't even know to ask in them. But in short, those electric lift pumps like FASS and Airdog are expensive and unreliable compared to the stock mechanical lift pump and with a simple spring upgrade the stock pump is capable of supporting 500hp
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I believe the cheapest fix for your 47rh is a valve body upgrade (shift kit) which is a pan-off upgrade. It increases line pressures to hold a little more power. It doesn’t take much to burn them up. Go to overdrive off so it stays in lockup in third (D) up hills. It’s slow but you’ll get there. When in OD and lockup, it doesn’t take much of a load to start slipping up a grade.

I have the same truck. I recommend a DTT panoff upgrade with a towing valve body specifically for diesels. Coupled with mild free engine upgrades I tow my flatbed with 6 round bales an 2 in bed, I also regularly tow same flatbed.with my tractor on it. My truck hauls wood, rock, and water tanks. This works well for me. I probably haul 75% of my driving.