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Dont hook the pull in wire on the fuel solenoid to the starter solenoid. You will burn up the solenoid for the injection pump. It only needs power to that side long enough to pull the plunger in. Hook it to a momentary on toggle switch, just bump it once you turn the key on, then start it. The wire that is now used for the fuel shut off on the ve pump will work for the hold in wire on the p-7100. If it were me, I would use relays, and use the wire on your current pump to trigger the relay. Same for the toggle switch.
 

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If your truck turns over and starts that easy every time then that would probably work. Thats how I was going to do mine, but a mechanic friend of mine that works in a shop said not to, because the solenoid only needs power for 1-2 seconds to pull in. Anymore than that and you risk burning it up. The solenoid requires 70 amps I believe to pull in. Look at Genos garage. I know he has relays for it. You would run a 8 or 10 guage wire from the battery positive to the relay, then from the relay to the solenoid. Ground the relay to the battery or a good ground point. The trigger wire could be much smaller as there is no load on it, just whatever the relay takes to open, usually less than 5 amps. I know the 2nd gens have timers on them so the relay kicks out after the 2 seconds or whatever it takes.

I dont have any grid heaters on my truck and when it gets down cold here like it has been it will crank for a while. That would burn the solenoid. Also if you change the fuel filter and have an issue getting it primed. Im just trying to look out for ya. I suppose if you look around you could find a timer relay that would work. I like the idea of the switch myself. Im going to make sure that not just anybody can take off in my truck. They might run the batteries dead, but atleast it wont start for them. LOL
 

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Also, if you are swapping a p-7100 onto a 1st gen engine, you need the pump support bracket, 2nd gen lift pump, fuel filter housing, gear case and cover, and 2nd gen injectors. Its not just unbolt the ve and bolt up the p-7100. You have to pull the cam out of the engine to swap gear cases. The injectors have to be changed because the line sizes are different, but that and opening pressure are the only differences. Ive ran 370 marine injectors with a stock ve pump and didnt have any problems. You have to completely remove the 1st gen fuel filter and fuel heater, its in the way of the p-7100.
 

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Its a lot of little things. You also have to take the oil line off the block for the vacuum pump, install a t fitting and run an oil line for the p-7100. Its not all that difficult of things to do. Its just little things that most people dont think of til they are torn apart and dont have the time to wait to get the parts. Its nice knowing what all you need before you start. Like Tater said, I can do one in about 10-12 hours if I have someone helping me do it. It doesnt require two people, just nice to have a second set of hands.
 

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try loosening and retightening the banjo bolt and the lines. Make sure they arent loose.
 
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dang it, looks like we were typing at the same time. lol.
 

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yeah, I got preoccupied with the tv while I was typing, and a text message I think. O well, atleast we both gave the same advice. LOL
 

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I would think so. I know on the p pump they are copper. You can order the whole washer kit from cummins.
 
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I dont know what it would cost for all of them. You need the serial number of the engine, which is on the data tag on the gear case, just call Cummins or a truck service center that works on them and tell them what you are needing. They might seal if you retighten them.
 
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