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is it possible to put a p pump on an 93 motor, and what is the average cost to do if possible?
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· So God Made a Farmer..
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yes it is possible. it all depends on what you can find for cheap. people are selling conversion kits on here, just gotta watch for em, like in the end mines gna run $600-$700 for my swap.
 

· So God Made a Farmer..
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yes it does, however like i said you can spend as much as you want on, it all depends on who ya know and whats cheap. the guy helping me do mine, is makin me one heck of a deal on here, and were building identical trucks. but im hoping to get a 913 pump, 4GSK, run no plate or a #0 plate, gut the afc, put a mack plug in it, get some 370's or 5x.014's injectors, and run about 17.5* timing, and get a 64/14 for a turbo on it. that should put me at 500HP+....
 

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is it possible to put a p pump on an 93 motor, and what is the average cost to do if possible?
Generally it's cheaper and easier to find a complete 2nd Gen engine and swap in it, instead of trying to find all the individual parts. Plus, there is no reason to destroy a completely good 1st Gen engine that I'm sure someone would buy.
 

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I got me a p-pump motor that I am going to swap in but there are a few snags. I am sure it is just due to my lack of knowledge but whatever. That what forums are for. How do I wire up the p-pump 3 wire FSS to my truck and is that the only thing that has to be rigged to get it in or do I need to go buy parts and such. This sort of applies so I hope i'm not hijacking...

BTW I have been trying to sell my VE motor for a month now and not even a nibble.

Hey TaterSalad, is it better to run a gutted afc or a well tuned afc? I am not going to run a plate but I think that is as far as it goes for me. It already has the 4k kit, mack plug, 5x14's, arp studs, o'ringed, super 40/3B twins, and 60lb valve springs, would that motor be around the 500hp mark?
 

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it would be close. the 3 wire plug is blk/wht/red i think. its been a while but i think the blk is negitiv, the red is turn on and the white is hold on. i think the best thing is to run the turn on wire to the starter solinoid and the hold on wire to a key on hot.
 

· So God Made a Farmer..
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yeah im just gna do the swap, because i have a guy thats alreay done it and can do it in like 10 hours.

RamRod90- yes you will 500 or more, id say might be possible to see 600 right there. and i think it all depends on the set-up, which your gna be running twins so id, since you have 5x.014's you might want to run a tuned AFC, however i guess it all depends on smoke really, because- AFC= Accelerated Fuel Control......
 

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yes it does, however like i said you can spend as much as you want on, it all depends on who ya know and whats cheap. the guy helping me do mine, is makin me one heck of a deal on here, and were building identical trucks. but im hoping to get a 913 pump, 4GSK, run no plate or a #0 plate, gut the afc, put a mack plug in it, get some 370's or 5x.014's injectors, and run about 17.5* timing, and get a 64/14 for a turbo on it. that should put me at 500HP+....
you forgot the 191 delivery valves. that things gonna smoke like willie nelson:shock:
 

· So God Made a Farmer..
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true, however ill add them if i need them, 913 pumps have 181's in them factory, so if i ever need a boost in fuel ill buy them later on, im not gna spend 300 bucks now when i can put that into other things....
 

· So God Made a Farmer..
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lol its ok. thats the hope, then if i end up gettin a smaller pump then 180 then yes i will get some 191's but if all goes well then i wont need em for awhile...if i need delivery valves then ill just go to lazer cuts...
 

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Dont hook the pull in wire on the fuel solenoid to the starter solenoid. You will burn up the solenoid for the injection pump. It only needs power to that side long enough to pull the plunger in. Hook it to a momentary on toggle switch, just bump it once you turn the key on, then start it. The wire that is now used for the fuel shut off on the ve pump will work for the hold in wire on the p-7100. If it were me, I would use relays, and use the wire on your current pump to trigger the relay. Same for the toggle switch.
 

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Are you refering to the 913 on the top left of the data badge on the side of the pump? If so, my pump has that so I think I have a 180 pump (1996 auto truck). would a 215 pump be better or would there be any difference after mods?
 

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Is there any other way to make it work? I suppose having a switch would ensure my truck wouldn't get stolen but I would rather just turn the key to start it. The starter is never engaged for more than half a second on start up anyway. I have never even heard my tuck turn over. I barely sneeze on the key and it is running.

I'm not too savvy on electronics... could you explain the relay setup to me...
 

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If your truck turns over and starts that easy every time then that would probably work. Thats how I was going to do mine, but a mechanic friend of mine that works in a shop said not to, because the solenoid only needs power for 1-2 seconds to pull in. Anymore than that and you risk burning it up. The solenoid requires 70 amps I believe to pull in. Look at Genos garage. I know he has relays for it. You would run a 8 or 10 guage wire from the battery positive to the relay, then from the relay to the solenoid. Ground the relay to the battery or a good ground point. The trigger wire could be much smaller as there is no load on it, just whatever the relay takes to open, usually less than 5 amps. I know the 2nd gens have timers on them so the relay kicks out after the 2 seconds or whatever it takes.

I dont have any grid heaters on my truck and when it gets down cold here like it has been it will crank for a while. That would burn the solenoid. Also if you change the fuel filter and have an issue getting it primed. Im just trying to look out for ya. I suppose if you look around you could find a timer relay that would work. I like the idea of the switch myself. Im going to make sure that not just anybody can take off in my truck. They might run the batteries dead, but atleast it wont start for them. LOL
 

· So God Made a Farmer..
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no sense in this thread being over, theres plenty of people that can learn about swapping pumps. so let the information begin..haha
 

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Also, if you are swapping a p-7100 onto a 1st gen engine, you need the pump support bracket, 2nd gen lift pump, fuel filter housing, gear case and cover, and 2nd gen injectors. Its not just unbolt the ve and bolt up the p-7100. You have to pull the cam out of the engine to swap gear cases. The injectors have to be changed because the line sizes are different, but that and opening pressure are the only differences. Ive ran 370 marine injectors with a stock ve pump and didnt have any problems. You have to completely remove the 1st gen fuel filter and fuel heater, its in the way of the p-7100.
 
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