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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First of all I picked this truck up as a project. Previous owner lost interest. Here’s what it has done to date.
2001 HO engine completely resealed.
crazy Carl’s p pump swap kit
Industrial injection 215 pump(new)
Hamilton 100# valve springs
Stock cam
Hx35/40 over s400 compounds with crazy Carl’s compound kit.
glacier diesel belt driven lift pump
PDD 7x0.010 injectors. (150 hp honed from industrial injection)

Ok. So previous owner assembled all of this and never got it to run correctly. I bought it cheap and am kind of banging my head on the wall. When I brought it home it would barely crank and run. Very Smokey, white grey smoke. Lots of it. I figured it was a timing issue. Set AFC back to essentially stock. It was maxed out. Set pump to TDC, no timing pin in the CC timing case so I did a quick valve overlap time on it. Marked the harmonic balancer, can’t get it to crank. Fires immediately with a shot of juice. Ok, must need a tad more timing. Advanced timing four degrees, still nothing. No crank.
I was planning to pull the pump anyway as it had an oil leak on the lifter galley that I want to fix. Is there something else I should be looking at? More timing? And yes, the FSS is working properly. Help a guy out here.
 

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What is your fuel pressure?

Is the OFV good and holding pressure?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
What is your fuel pressure?

Is the OFV good and holding pressure?
Fuel pressure at idle on the glacier pump is supposed to be 25# I seem to have good pressure to the pump. OFV is an adjustable unit I’m not familiar with. This one has a 14mm bolt in the top. Seems to be holding pressure.
 

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Fuel pressure at idle on the glacier pump is supposed to be 25# I seem to have good pressure to the pump. OFV is an adjustable unit I’m not familiar with. This one has a 14mm bolt in the top. Seems to be holding pressure.
If you have 25 psi at idle then that's ok, so the OFV is working.

Is the FSS electronic or a cable pull? Are you sure it's pulling all the up?
 

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You say it won't hardly turn over, that could be part of the problem if the starter is bad. Also if the battery/batteries, or cables are bad.
 

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What happens when all the injectors are cracked open and you turn it over.
 

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I would hope so. They’re brand new.
Means nothing being new, i've seen Members buy new injectors just to find out they weren't popped to spec.

What about valve lash and cam timing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
They need to be popped for p-pump spec, not Vp44 spec.
Guess I haven’t heard that one before. What’s the difference in pop pressure? I haven’t seen a p pump swap specific injector I don’t believe. Is that difference in pop spec enough to keep the engine from cranking? If so, why was it cranking and running before changing the timing?
 

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Guess I haven’t heard that one before. What’s the difference in pop pressure? I haven’t seen a p pump swap specific injector I don’t believe. Is that difference in pop spec enough to keep the engine from cranking? If so, why was it cranking and running before changing the timing?
A quick search just said the VP44 is 290 Bar and P-Pump is 270 Bar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
A quick search just said the VP44 is 290 Bar and P-Pump is 270 Bar.
I see where you’re coming from but I’m still not sure that’s going to hurt anything. Plenty of p pump swapped trucks with stock 24v injectors and new upgraded injectors that weren’t modified for the p pump. I understand that stock injectors could wear down closer to the p pump spec over time. I guess I could throw the stock injectors back in and see if that changes anything.
 

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I don't know either but I just know a 12v runs better on injectors that are popped to spec for the IP, just trying to help.
 
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