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am a new owner of a 2011 Ram 3500 6.7 Cummings. I am having an overheating problem. I understand I bought a used truck, but here is some background on what I have already tried. New waterpump, thermostat, thermostat housing, headgasket, machined /rebuilt head o-ringed, head studs, new radiator , new radiator cap, confirmed clutch fan working. Heat goes away, tried to bleed air out of the system refill and the heat comes back. Then it will be good for a while, 1 hr or so on short trips. Then stop, cool down maybe overnight, then check the system add coolant , then I have to start the whole process over. I just finally the head work today, started, ran at high idle and started to get hot no heat, bleed the pressure off and topped off the coolant. Heat returns and stays, temp stays good. Shut it down, check the coolant level after bleeding pressure off, top off coolant to a tune of 1.5 goals. Start the truck back up and it starts all over again. No heat, after about 20 mins of running, runs hot again. The reservoir is full and doesn't appear to draw coolant back in when needed. Help, Ideas, I'm at my wits end!!!! It does have the egr deleted.
 

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What you are describing is a head gasket install using a warped or cracked head block. The head gasket is still compromised in one of these two ways. The stupid dealership installed a new head gasket in my Cummins twice under factory warranty without having a warp machined out of the head and it failed after both gasket jobs, and I ended up having a private shop do the gasket replacement on my dime and it no longer leaks. Sorry for all your trouble.
 

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Fill out your profile with a location and someone on here can probably recommend a local shop to do the head work properly
 

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What you are describing is a head gasket install using a warped or cracked head block. The head gasket is still compromised in one of these two ways. The stupid dealership installed a new head gasket in my Cummins twice under factory warranty without having a warp machined out of the head and it failed after both gasket jobs, and I ended up having a private shop do the gasket replacement on my dime and it no longer leaks. Sorry for all your trouble.
 

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What you are describing is a head gasket install using a warped or cracked head block. The head gasket is still compromised in one of these two ways. The stupid dealership installed a new head gasket in my Cummins twice under factory warranty without having a warp machined out of the head and it failed after both gasket jobs, and I ended up having a private shop do the gasket replacement on my dime and it no longer leaks. Sorry for all your trouble.
am a new owner of a 2011 Ram 3500 6.7 Cummings. I am having an overheating problem. I understand I bought a used truck, but here is some background on what I have already tried. New waterpump, thermostat, thermostat housing, headgasket, machined /rebuilt head o-ringed, head studs, new radiator , new radiator cap, confirmed clutch fan working. Heat goes away, tried to bleed air out of the system refill and the heat comes back. Then it will be good for a while, 1 hr or so on short trips. Then stop, cool down maybe overnight, then check the system add coolant , then I have to start the whole process over. I just finally the head work today, started, ran at high idle and started to get hot no heat, bleed the pressure off and topped off the coolant. Heat returns and stays, temp stays good. Shut it down, check the coolant level after bleeding pressure off, top off coolant to a tune of 1.5 goals. Start the truck back up and it starts all over again. No heat, after about 20 mins of running, runs hot again. The reservoir is full and doesn't appear to draw coolant back in when needed. Help, Ideas, I'm at my wits end!!!! It does have the egr deleted.
If your using coolant it’s going somewhere. Done oil samples ? If you have new radiator can’t be what mine had which was feathers and grass between air and radiator. What about oil cooler . How’s oil level if it’s coming up and oil looks funny could be cooler.
 

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The coolant is overflowing into the tank until is gets low enough and doesn't suck it back in when its cools off. I can check it the next day and it will be low about 1-1.5 gals. and there will still be pressure in the radiator. I replaced the cap which is what made sense to me, but it's still doing it. Not mixing in the oil and oil not in the radiator. It's got me puzzled.
 

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The coolant is overflowing into the tank until is gets low enough and doesn't suck it back in when its cools off. I can check it the next day and it will be low about 1-1.5 gals. and there will still be pressure in the radiator. I replaced the cap which is what made sense to me, but it's still doing it. Not mixing in the oil and oil not in the radiator. It's got me puzzled.
Your head gasket is leaking exhaust gases into your system!! Sorry but you need to find a shop that knows what they are doing to check the head and block!!
 

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The coolant is overflowing into the tank until is gets low enough and doesn't suck it back in when its cools off. I can check it the next day and it will be low about 1-1.5 gals. and there will still be pressure in the radiator. I replaced the cap which is what made sense to me, but it's still doing it. Not mixing in the oil and oil not in the radiator. It's got me puzzled.
Yeah if you have pressure when truck is cold cold the you’ve got head, block issues putting pressure in radiator which opens cap and puts it in tank ,then remains pressure overnight so no vacuum when cooled down .find someone who knows a good shop
 

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I had the head rebuilt and decked smooth and o ringed. It must be the block!
If the top radiator hose gets so hard you can’t hardly squeeze and gets hot then it’s coming from within the engine piston pressure through head, gasket or cylinder wall block . A shop I worked in California we had some pinkish spray that was used to check for cracks. I forget it’s name ,that was 20 yrs ago . If machining on head is good and haven’t warped again from heat . Hopefully you can find where it’s leaking into coolant system. Is the egr box cooler still on or has been deleted? I suppose with all the restriction in the exhaust the egr cooler could be getting pressure from inside the exhaust portion of the cooler sending pressure into cooling system. Its a chance happening but it would be less work to bypass the Cooler lines to the egr cooler or remove and pressure up exhaust part and use a manometer to detect leakage into coolant part of cooler. I would probably only apply pressure to slightly above radiator cap limit since it seem wherever it’s coming from it’s opening the cap.
 

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am a new owner of a 2011 Ram 3500 6.7 Cummings. I am having an overheating problem. I understand I bought a used truck, but here is some background on what I have already tried. New waterpump, thermostat, thermostat housing, headgasket, machined /rebuilt head o-ringed, head studs, new radiator , new radiator cap, confirmed clutch fan working. Heat goes away, tried to bleed air out of the system refill and the heat comes back. Then it will be good for a while, 1 hr or so on short trips. Then stop, cool down maybe overnight, then check the system add coolant , then I have to start the whole process over. I just finally the head work today, started, ran at high idle and started to get hot no heat, bleed the pressure off and topped off the coolant. Heat returns and stays, temp stays good. Shut it down, check the coolant level after bleeding pressure off, top off coolant to a tune of 1.5 goals. Start the truck back up and it starts all over again. No heat, after about 20 mins of running, runs hot again. The reservoir is full and doesn't appear to draw coolant back in when needed. Help, Ideas, I'm at my wits end!!!! It does have the egr deleted.
What did you do to your tuning to negate what it caused in the 1st place. All the machining in the world will not correct that.
 
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