Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum banner
1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The turbo in my took took a header and for the first and last time in my life I let someone else work on my truck. Had the shop replace the turbo and fan clutch at the same time, got it back and it's running way too hot, drove it home Friday and it hit about 220 and spit up a lot of coolant so I thought they missed an air pocket, refilled the coolant and took it out earlier today and it was running about 210, lit the wick a little bit and it spiked to 230 or so then all at once hit 240 and was shut down and coasted to a stop. Am going to have it towed back to the shop in the AM and have them fix it right but am looking for suggestions. There is no white smoke and it runs normally just way too hot. The turbo and fan clutch were both OE replacements, the coolant is the proper HOAT so am kinda stumped. Any ideas? Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,148 Posts
Probably failure to properly bleed all the air out of the engine. They need to remove the 1/4" pipe plug next to the valve cover in order to properly vent the system. I'll guess they did not do that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
376 Posts
also if they did not do that then your egr cooler may have cracked from overheating a very common issue with inproper coolant filling procedure i would have them pull the egr crossover tube and check for coolant
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
also if they did not do that then your egr cooler may have cracked from overheating a very common issue with inproper coolant filling procedure i would have them pull the egr crossover tube and check for coolant
Thanks for the reply's, I tried to drive it yesterday thinking that it may have purged itself overnight and it was a little warm but not bad for a bit then it spiked and I shut it down. Judging by how it's acting I think the cooler may be cracked as well. It will be towed back this morning and they will make it right.
 

·
Mr. Vehicle Destroyer
Joined
·
11,905 Posts
if it is still pushing coolant out of the overflow you've likely blown the head gasket, and its no fault of an improper bleed on the cooling system or anything of the like.

Next time it happens pop the hood and look for bubbling in the overflow bottle...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
376 Posts
my work truck has a 6.7 in it and it stays steady around 200-210 its been through 1 egr cooler 3 dpf's 6 injectors its got 150k on it when i did the injectors i pulled theintake connection and intake manifold just to see how much soot buildup was in there the intake grid heater was almost plugged had to have been a huge restriction and cleaning the intake head surface was a pain in the butt scrape vacuum scrape vacuum anyways I'm just venting i wish they would let me delete everything then the truck might make it for the long run
 

·
Southern Idaho VP
Joined
·
1,573 Posts
I'm so glad I have an 2005 5.9 :party018:
I'm so glad I have an 08 DELETED 6.7 :party018:
Sent from my Milestone X2 using AutoGuide.Com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The shop is now trying to tell me that the coolant temp. sensor is bad causing the fan clutch to not engage......told em to go for it and will see what happens....just a little more rope to hang themselves with.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
376 Posts
sounds awkward if you unplug the temp sensor the fan engages instantly its a fail safe and if the temp sensor reads 210 + the fan engages and you said it was reading 210-240 spikes if you get the truck back and its still doing it just unplug the coolant temp sensor and see if the fan engages if it doesnt either the wiring to the fan was messed up or a bad fan clutch
 

·
Rescue Tower
Joined
·
10,810 Posts
I think we should back up and get an explanation as to why you had the fan clutch replaced. There is a back story here that has not been discussed. Especially making a title about over heating after turbo replacement. Best I can tell turbo has zero to do with your issue. I guess we need the back story on it as well.
 

·
cummins nut
Joined
·
184 Posts
Subscribed... Any way that a manual switch can be installed to override the ECM on fan clutch control?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Here's the full back story on this deal.

I had the turbo replaced due to a hard P2563 code even after having the turbo cleaned. When it would do this under acceleration the turbo would go into the e-brake position and get stuck until you shut it down for a few minutes and then it would operate semi-properly for a brief time then get stuck again. The shop that installed the turbo called and told me that the original fan clutch did not appear to be operating properly so I told them to replace it while it was there thinking that at 140k it may well be time and it might save down time later.

I picked the truck up and within 5 miles it was overheating so I shut it down and it appeared to be puking air from the overflow tank. Thinking it just had air in the system I let it cool overnight and drove it again the next morning and after 5 or 10 miles it was overheating again so I shut it back down and had it towed back to the shop that did the work.

One thing I had noticed was that the new fan clutch was not engaging so I told them to check that out. They jacked around and decided that the coolant temp sensor was bad, replaced it with no change then yesterday tried to tell me that the ECM was bad. I told them to put it back together and that I would take it home and fix the bloody thing myself. :banghead:

I think the thing to do now is go back to the basics and start from scratch checking fan clutch operation etc. as I finally wormed out of them that they had just assumed that the new fan clutch was good and did not actually test it. I checked the engine last night and there are no bubbles in the coolant while running so I don't think the engine is damaged and that I may have just got a bad part.
 

·
Rescue Tower
Joined
·
10,810 Posts
If it is over heating while you are driving above say 25 mph it's not a fan clutch issue. Vehicle speed at that point is moving more air than the fan ever could, and would point back to a possible head gasket issue or thermostat that is closed shut.

Have you looked for coolant in the oil?

What about black spots in the coolant?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I did not see any signs of coolant in the oil or oil in the coolant. I will also be doing a combustion leak test and check the cross over tube for signs of coolant in the EGR system and checking for a coolant restriction. I should have noted earlier that I have not ruled out a mechanical failure or coolant restriction yet, that was just a starting point.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,104 Posts
If it is over heating while you are driving above say 25 mph it's not a fan clutch issue. Vehicle speed at that point is moving more air than the fan ever could, and would point back to a possible head gasket issue or thermostat that is closed shut.

Have you looked for coolant in the oil?

What about black spots in the coolant?
I don't buy the 25MPH.
If that were true, then the fan on my ISC would not come on and it does when the water reaches 210F while moving.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top