I agree. that truck already has bags, gauges and a programmer. At least he did it right and put the gauges on there so that you know your truck is doing. Put an exhaust brake on there and that thing will be set.
I also agree with the 4x4. I use my 4x4 frequently with my rig behind me. I tend to spin in 2wd when I am backing in gravel or on lighly wet grass even though there is 7k lbs on my back axle. Dad watched it one day and he said that he could see the whole earth move when I let off the clutch. It took a section of ground that looked like a sod strip and just moved it out from underneath the tires. He said it was cool. I didn't know because I was driving trying to get that massive thing in its place.
Another thing to think about. I don't know how tall you are, but a lot of companies are going with a mid profile front cap that shortens the ceiling height in the front of the campers. The adrenaline and the victory lanes come to mind. I am just over 6ft tall and I had to be selective on which campers I would buy because I would hit my head when I went to the front closet. That just doesn't work for me every day so I made sure I had one with the full front cap.
here is my setup parked in the Wal-mart parking lot in Vicksburg, MS. The gap that is between my cab and the camper causes some serious wind drag but you shouldn't have as much of an issue because of the mega cab if you are going that way. the new designers are designing the campers to be towed with short bed trucks so they are setting the rigs further back with extended pin boxes. I am still looking for a replacement king pin that will get it a little closer but I may go the wind deflector route instead.
As for the exhaust brake, consider the factory option. Dodge offered them from cummins as far back as 02. I've had 2 factory ex brakes as well as an aftermarket and I prefer the factory option 2 to 1 over aftermarket. The factory option works seemlessly with ur cruise, stops, etc. Keep your trailer brakes in good shape and you can stop in a hurry. I've had some bad ones and the trailer brakes make all the differance with such a load. Also make sure you get an inertia driven brake controller, and I don't mean any one that puts that in in their item description. A real inertia driven controller will vary the voltage sent to the trailer brakes by how hard you brake with your truck. The controller I use (Prodigy) is the best in my experience and saves trailer brake wear by at least half. In normal driving it uses the trailer brakes very little untill you really need them and makes for much smoother stops. When I come to a stop the controller is only sending aprox 1-2 volts to the trailer while sending anywhere from 6-9 volts while I'm slowing down. Depends how hard i have them set. Prodigy also offers 3 levels of agression in braking. I haul oversize loads with my rig and half my driving is coming back empty. I never need to adjust my brake power settings, only put my controller to the lowest agression setting while empty and bump it up with the various load sizes. My trailer weighs over 7K empty and is rated for 21K gross so I know heavy hauling with a ton dually. BTW my hauling rig is not the one in my signiture :lol3: It's an 06 dually, reg cab, 4" banks exhaust/brake (the one I don't like) but stock powerwise. Up grades later mabee :hyper: Anyway thats my $.02 from my experiance. Good luck and enjoy the travels.
