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Discussion Starter #1
There are a handful of threads about lockers here, but I am getting some strange info as I put it all together. Maybe you all can help me out here.

I have had four jeep rubicons (2004, 2005, 2007 & 2009) and am quite familiar with how the dc installed lockers function. I fell out of love with the new minivan motor and the new clutch was a bit light for my taste and with two kids I ordered a 2011 2500 mega 6.7 g56 tranny to be the new car.

Now, I am not rock crawling but the house we got upstate has a 3/4 mile driveway that was a logging road. Cool location. And it is steep, and I'm trailering the toys back and forth as well. I don't forsee needing lockers on my truck. I think the LSD in the back will be fine for what I'm doing. But who knows what the future will bring?

But I spoke with rich from rms off road here on the island and he said that to install lockers is a bad idea because they ratchet around corners and get noisy on the hwy. What?? I know the jeep only had Dana 44's but they were fine and quiet.

On another thread I read that the poster was cautious to drive on ice because he had lockers in his axles. I don't get that either.

Are they both talking about some kind of auto locking diff?

If I were ever to install lockers I'd like the diffs to be open and have switch activated lockers... Like arb or something I guess. I have faith that I can predict needing them and engage them prior to getting stuck.
 

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They must be talking about full-time lockers. If you decide you need a locker for the front, then get one you can lock when you want.
 

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They must be talking about full-time lockers. If you decide you need a locker for the front, then get one you can lock when you want. Similar to what you had in the Rubi's.
 

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Sounds like they are talking about automatic lockers. They often do make odd noises when going around corners - especially when on the throttle.

The lockers you would want are manual lockers. These would be like the Rubicon's. Either air or electrically operated.

One thing to keep in mind is that the Ram Power Wagons are offered with an LSD rear end that also has an electronic locker. It may be possible to swap it into your axle. LSD with a locker seems like the best to me anyways, your truck won't be hopeless without the locker engaged unlike an open diff.
 

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I agree, They must be talking about full time lockers such as detroit lockers. For a daily driver, Your best bet would be ARB air lockers so you can lock up the axels when you want, like the rubicon setup.
I will go with the ARB lockers if I decide to add lockers to the truck.
 

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To add a question to this thread: What would typical labor cost be to have the dealer install the ARB lockers in the front and back? (Excluding connecting air lines etc.)
 

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A lot. You could probably expect well over $600 in labor, probably closer to 800. Best to just invite some buddies over to help during the weekend.
 

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You are looking at about $4000 for parts and labor for both axles. ARB's are nice pimp lockers, but you can have functional selectable lockers for less. Also, An ARB requires a gear setup, which means if you have never done a gear setup you best stay away from it. It isn't terribly hard, but you can make mistakes very easy that end up costing quite a bit. I always take mine in, and its the ONLY piece of work I don't do myself on my crawler.
Now, if you wanted a lunchbox locker like Detroit or Lockrite, you can in fact install one without touching the gears. Meaning that you can pull the entire carrier out and replace the guts (Spider gears) with a full time locker. These will wear tires very fast on pavement and also create a very dangerous situation on slippery roads.
I am looking for Power Wagon axles since they are stout enough to take the 3/4 ton heaft. The reason Dodge doesn't put lockers in the Cummins is because you would snap parts all day long in 4lo. Too much TQ to lock both sides together.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks all. I definitely think I would want a setup like the rubies I've had - part time lockers. Truth be told, I never knew people put in full time or auto-locking lockers.

Cool thing about doing it after-market is that I guess i could have control as to what axle to lock up and when rather than rear only or both like I am sure is the case with the power wagon.

Well, just like with my jeeps, I'll wait until I break something or get stuck and then replace or upgrade what I need to.

Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Kaistie - am I to understand that I have 11.5 in the rear and 9.25 in the front? What are the axles in the power wagon?
 

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I believe the PW has a 10.5 rear ring gear, and a 9.25 Front. The 2500 has the same setup I believe with the exception of the manual trans 2500 which has a D80. All the rest of the 2500's have a 10.5" ring gear. The 3500's have the D80 (11") though, auto and manual. The PW axles should bolt right up to the 2500 suspension and drivetrain since it is in essence a gas version of the 2500 cummins with lots of extra bells and whistles. Someone can correct me if I am wrong since this is what I recall.
 

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A lot. You could probably expect well over $600 in labor, probably closer to 800. Best to just invite some buddies over to help during the weekend.
Your buddies have to know what they are doing for this type of install. If they have neither the tools, nor the skill set to do the install it can be a very expensive weekend indeed.
 

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The extent of my R&P experience was setting pinion depth on a D60 after I destroyed a lower link mount causing the axle to roll under binding the driveshaft at the pinion. The Ujoint got to a certain degree and exploded causing the pinion shims to be crushed and the pinion slopping around inside the housing. I also blew out my shafts on my coilovers and exploded both hubs at once. I had to replace the shims until I got a good pattern. That is it, and I was even worried about that. Thankfully its not a highway hellion.
Let us know how it turns out for ya.
 

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IMO, you could throw an E-locker in the front for about $700 plus labor and leave the LSD in the rear and you should be good to go for under a grand.

I wouldn't go that route if you plan to go rock crawling because like was said earlier the Cummins will break that front axle like a tooth pick if you get it bound up good and tight...for that kind of action your gonna need to think about an axle swap.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
IMO, you could throw an E-locker in the front for about $700 plus labor and leave the LSD in the rear and you should be good to go for under a grand.

I wouldn't go that route if you plan to go rock crawling because like was said earlier the Cummins will break that front axle like a tooth pick if you get it bound up good and tight...for that kind of action your gonna need to think about an axle swap.
I think this is the way I'm going to wind up going - especially because of the fact that the front is so heavy in these trucks... should be a good solution.

Brian from AAM gave me a very prompt and nice return email in response to my inquiry regarding the 11.5" - not hopeful information, but here it is:

"Eric,
Thanks for your email.
AAM has an electronically actuated locker for the 9.25” driven front axle (p/n 74037279) that can be procured from one of our distributors.
At this time we only have the electronically actuated locker for the 10.5” Rear Axle. The only differential other than an open for the 11.5” rear axle is the AAM GT Helical Limited Slip Differential.
Hope this helps."​

Oh well.
 

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Bump

Did you ever go ahead and install the lockers?

I am thinking of putting ARB's up front and rear in my truck but after reading this thread I am worried that with the combination of 5:13 gears + 41" Iroks + the power of my cummins + the weight factor ...... I might as well just leave the front diff open?

My front axle has the dynatrac conversion, 5:13 precision gearing..

I need your opinions on this please..
 

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some good info
 
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