Not interested in the search function. Curious for everyones take on my direct situation.
18 with 50K on it. I recently ran my longest oil interval at 10,000. Blackstone says all is well and run it another 2K. I run mostly highway, currently about 140 miles per day everyday a week. But I do work construction so my truck is exposed to extra idling at times and some short trips.
If Blackstone gives me the all clear, is there anything you can’t measure that might sway when to dump the oil? I’m not going to keep wasting money on analysis if I’m not going to listen to them, and I‘d like the take of some more experience people. Many thanks
Hard to argue with empirical oil analysis. Anything anyone else could offer would be anecdotal. I think you answered your own question: you're paying for their service, so heed their recommendation.
18 with 50K on it. I recently ran my longest oil interval at 10,000. Blackstone says all is well and run it another 2K. I run mostly highway, currently about 140 miles per day everyday a week. But I do work construction so my truck is exposed to extra idling at times and some short trips.
Evidently you couldn't be bothered to read your manual either that states 15,000 miles oil changes are fine. So not surprised blackstone looked at it and said you are golden to keep on keeping on
If Blackstone gives me the all clear, is there anything you can’t measure that might sway when to dump the oil? I’m not going to keep wasting money on analysis if I’m not going to listen to them, and I‘d like the take of some more experience people. Many thanks
Why would any of our opinions be better then that of the oil lab's? they literally deal with this every day, they know more about oil and usage then 99% of the people on the internet. Not only did you deliberately set out to ignore the search feature, but you already had an answer from an expert that is very well respected everywhere you go, and then come on here looking for a different answer? I'm guessing you already made up your mind you aren't comfortable reading the manual, listening to factory recommendations, or listening to the oil experts. With that being the case, do what you wanna do, 15k interval is factory recommended. if you are worried about that interval, due an oil analysis. and if all else fails, ask the internet for reasons to ignore the oil analysis and do shorter intervals because 50 years ago a 3 month 3,000 mile interval was the norm.
I have sent no less than a dozen samples to blackstone for various vehicles and they always come back saying to run it longer.
I got to a point of simply stopping waste my monies on their analysis and changing when I want. Oil is cheap!
if I went by the book and changed every 6 months like they demand, the oil in my truck currently with sub 300 miles on it but been in there for about 10 months would need to be changed..
As to why is it black so fast, EGR !!! get rid of the egr and the oil is remarkably clean for tons longer
that said I still change the oil at about 5000 miles running full synthetic, damn the timeframe and damn the 15k/6 month interval ram says
If it's black after 1000 miles no way I am waiting 15k more. Gonna order the filter plug on Amazon.
It was a ford dealership so I can't imagine they'd lie about the oil change.
Maybe I'll just let it go for another 1000 and change it for peace of mind. No way I'll go 15k. I change my 7.3 twice a year so maybe I'll just do once a year on the cummins.
Oil is hygroscopic. It will absorb moisture from the air when it sits. Thats why there is a time frame on oil, if a vehicle mostly sits around, the oil will get ruined based off of contamination rather then use. that is why there is a time frame, and a mileage reference point.
Comparing 7.3s Powerstrokes to 6.7s cummins isn't even in the same ballpark. Trying to claim they are just shows how ill informed you are
Oil is hygroscopic. It will absorb moisture from the air when it sits. Thats why there is a time frame on oil, if a vehicle mostly sits around, the oil will get ruined based off of contamination rather then use. that is why there is a time frame, and a mileage reference point.
In what way is the oil in machinery different, since it generally only needs to be changed based on operating hours?
And how come that in our FCA/Stellantis vehicles (gas and diesel) the oil supposedly goes bad in six months? According to Cummins an annual change is sufficient. And Porsches, which have fairly sophisticated engines, only have mileage based change intervals?
Besides, engine oil is supposedly not hygroscopic, but not fully warming then engine up will cause condensation. That's entirely different.
Other than to lure people into the dealerships, I see no reason whatsoever for 6-month oil changes, as long as the vehicle is treated correctly.
You might be right, but those are a very old piece of standard equipment, being that there are laws against tampering with them dating back to the 70s
It would be much easier to provide a vehicle without an hour meter, then to get a road vehicle within the last 50 years without an odometer from the factory
Now i'll sit here and wait for Jimmy to manage to pull up one or two vehicles that didn't have one for some obscure reason or another
I don't think I have anything road going without an odometer, but have a few with non-functional ones.
That's one reason I've wondered how they'd go about taxing vehicles based on how much they've been driven, which they have talked about doing.
here will be an old story but pertinnet to the conversation I suppose.... condensation in the oil and damages...
My mom bought herself a brand new Mustang when she was working as a librarian at the local school only 2 blocks from home.
She worked 12 months, so 5 days a week she started that car and drove 2 blocks and parked it for about 7 hours and then started it and drove the 2 blocks home. The car wasn't driven hardly any other time for anything and 2 years later several of the hydraulic lifters were sounding like small carpenters pounding on the engines internals...
I was in shop class at the time and I took off the valve cover and it was just a froth of water soaked oil in a semi solid form the shape of the valve cover.
The lefters couldn't even get removed, ended up having to drill and tap the oil ports to them and install grease zerks and them pump grease in to force them out, what a mess
So I have seen the effects first hand of short trips or idling wihtout ever getting the engine up to temperature and evaporating away all the condensation that builds up in internal combustion engines
I ended up buying that car from my mom as my first car shortly after that and my dad started driving my mom to work everyday on his way into work..... ohh the 70's.........
the engine blew up and windowed the block with less than 15,000 miles on it about a year after I bought and was using it daily doing about 15 miles a day for high school, vocational school and work- usually 5 or 6 short trips daily...
My mom lost her taste for mustangs after this but when she changed schools about a decade later and was now driving 12 miles each way she did get herself a new Ford escort gt and had no issues at all
Yep, there's a reason I drive things until the temps come up. Or they won't be started in the first place, if at all possible.
It makes me cringe when I read about people starting cars up once a week while in storage for the winter.
i would do that... but i'd also let it run 15-20 min until it got to temp & sometimes jack up the rear end & put the trans in gear to also warm up the driveline fluids
^ hell I just took the winter front off my truck last week after driving around in 95* temps for almost 2 hours and never once did the oil temp nor the water temp get to 200* and I did not shut the truck off even once while running to all these places (only about 76 miles total trip)
I bet I could have just left the winter front on all the time, there is still that ginormous opening through the bumper to the radiator and under the bumper
I bet I could have just left the winter front on all the time, there is still that ginormous opening through the bumper to the radiator and under the bumper
I know I couldn't. The fan gets quite a workout as it is, and I definitely wouldn't want to lose any flow over the charge air cooler.
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