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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey, i've been doing a lot of searching trying to figure out the best approach to installing an oil bypass on these 12v's. I'm probably going to go with an oilguard or Frantz. Pressure sending side is easy (port above oil filter housing), but not sure what's the 'recommended' method for the return. I'd like to mount it lower so the filter housing self-drains. I stumbled across some 24v threads and they mentioned a couple closed caps on the rear block above the oil pan that can be removed and tapped to the appropriate hole size.

The only methods i can confirm thus far is
1. Valve cover (don't want to do )
2. plastic filler tube (not in love w/ the idea)
3. Oil turbo return line ( not sure of the exact method for doing this)
4. ?????

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Right. I think a restrictor is all that's required for that port. If it truly caused problems id use a sandwich adapter on the oil filter neck.

I had considered the fleet guard bypass, but I think for the high cost of the filter, might as well install an aftermarket unit that uses cheap media. That's my end goal, to run synthetic and not to have to purchase insanely high priced filters. I figure if I can't spend the 10mins to change out a tp roll, I probably need to reassess my workload. That's just my belief, but we're all different and that's OK.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
I'm estimating I'll probably put 15-20k a year on it. I pretty much have to or I might have this thing for a veeerrryy long time. I'm currently doing 5k changes with Delo. I do 10k changes with synthetic on my tdi diesel and would like to at least mirror that. I Like the idea of spending the money once and pretty much having free media changes (frantz). I can also move the kit to my next vehicle rather than a consumable filter.

I can completely understand the order of operations with the filtering point you made. Even if the bypass kit doesn't get to the particle before it cycles through the engine, it will still get it in a fairly reasonable rate. This is a lot better than never but is something to think about. The external kit might pick up that smaller particle that fleetguard didn't pick up, am I right?
Can the lf filter get clogged? What would happen in that event? Hopefully the full pass still functions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
BTW, I'm at 166k now. I'd consider myself fortunate to make it to 500k considering the trucks driving schedule. That would equate to ~$800 in extra cost attributed to the lf bypass unit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Have you read the oil filter analysis from the TDR? There is cheap media, and there is poor quality, which usually goes hand in hand. http://www.genosgarage.com/GenosGarageTechArticles/TDR71_LubeOilFiltration.pdf What are you using as a primary filter?

IMO,if you are going to go through the trouble to install a bypass system, why cheap out? I am hoping that my oil analysis will give me a green light for 20k oil changes, once a year in your case. The LF 9028 is $25, just a little more than twice the price of a Fleetguard Stratapore. In my last oil sample experiment I went 12k with a filter change at 6k. Add the $25 for a sample and it becomes difficult to say I am saving any money. In the end, my goal is to not have to do another engine rebuild.
I was referring to the frantz or oilguard tp filters. High cost up front but it can be used for life and the consumables (the filter) is cheap. Knowing that I can get the lf9028 for 25 shipped definitely changes the calculation though. More like $375, not $800. Definitely something to consider.

One thing that I still don't understand is the recommended change interval on these for a 12v. I know nothing is official so it would have to be past experience. Just seems the external bypass would be a little easier to monitor. How would u know if the bypass portion was clogged on the lf ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
What type oil and change intervals are you running?
 

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